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Anyone notice that one of those 30Amp fuses is supposed to be a 10AMP fuse?
I looked at mine a 2013 350 and its not the same as OPs.
Because the fuse is there to protect the wires, I'd be inspecting everything the fuse powers for a short to ground or some adjacent wires/accessories etc.
I shouldn't have a 30A fuse in there. I can't read what the panel marker says and this may not be related to the no start issues. It may be very related to battery drain issues.
In OP's photo the diagram on the underside of the fuse box lid does show that there should be 30's in both locations. Does the diagram in your 2013 show 30's in both locations, but your owners manual shows otherwise? It's possible it changed over the years to be slightly different.
Double check all your connections to the fusible link. If you look at those pictures posted in the link, make sure you reattached all the wires correctly. I would imagine your not getting fuel or something (no power to fuel pump?). So it could be one of those connections I suppose.
Before tranfering cables from the old fusible link to the new one, I have label all the connectors/wires, even took pictures before removing connectors. I am sure the connections were attached correctly and tight. About the fuel pump, how do I check for the power?
Anyone notice that one of those 30Amp fuses is supposed to be a 10AMP fuse?
I looked at mine a 2013 350 and its not the same as OPs.
Because the fuse is there to protect the wires, I'd be inspecting everything the fuse powers for a short to ground or some adjacent wires/accessories etc.
I shouldn't have a 30A fuse in there. I can't read what the panel marker says and this may not be related to the no start issues. It may be very related to battery drain issues.
A couple things: Next time you try to start it grab a can of starting fluid and remove the accordion hose from the air box. Spray fluid into the hose and quickly assemble it. Leave clamp loose, depress throttle partially and try to start it. What happens?
"Starting fluid", Can you name one of it? sorry I am not that technical in this field Thanks
I will try the "Starting fluid" trick and may be check out the spark plug.
Does any one know what the RAD NO.1 and RAD NO. 2, two 30A fuses (green) do? Those are bad fuses and they keep blown out when I put in the new ones. Would that be why the car could not start?
In OP's photo the diagram on the underside of the fuse box lid does show that there should be 30's in both locations. Does the diagram in your 2013 show 30's in both locations, but your owners manual shows otherwise? It's possible it changed over the years to be slightly different.
Reading on mobile and well if thats a 30 x2, that is better than what I was thinking.
Yes the OEM manual has a lot more detail about the fuse descriptions.
Does the car have any mods? Before this happened did all of the audio work?
Reading on mobile and well if thats a 30 x2, that is better than what I was thinking.
Yes the OEM manual has a lot more detail about the fuse descriptions.
Does the car have any mods? Before this happened did all of the audio work?
No, there is no mod to the car. Before this incident, all fuses and radio work fine.
Today I tried to start the car several times and I believe the second tries, the engine barely started for about 1 second and stop. I also received an error code P2118 today, not sure what it is? Battery shows 12.38 volt. I am going to get a can of starting fluid from a local store and will try again in a few hours.
Today I tried to start the car several times and I believe the second tries, the engine barely started for about 1 second and stop. I also received an error code P2118 today, not sure what it is? Battery shows 12.38 volt. I am going to get a can of starting fluid from a local store and will try again in a few hours.
OK I sprayed the starting fluid in the hose (picture) and the car about to start for 5 seconds then stopped. How do I check for:
start relay,
fuse for gas pump (if any)
power to gas pump
gas pressor (if any)?
I forgot to mentioned that I removed the radio unit last night to troubleshoot a short circuit that blown the two 30A fuses above. This morning I tried starting the car and saw the error code P2118 (so the code appeared after I removed the radio unit). I wonder if the car can start without the radio unit? is there anything thing in the radio system that disable the car from starting?
I'm sure this won't help, but just figured I'd throw this out there. I took out my battery for about 20-30 or so minutes yesterday to run a subwoofer wire through the rubber grommet behind the battery and when I put it back my windows were acting up. I could roll them up and down, but only from that specific window switch and all automatic features were gone. I ended up fixing this by rolling each one all the way down and back up again. After a complete open and close from the exact door switch for each window it restored my ability to roll them down from the driver door controls and gave me all my automatic features back aswell.
Another thing possibly worth mentioning is the first time I started the car back up after the battery was out it started to crank and immediately shut off and threw up a check engine light. I tried again and it started up fine. I'm assuming that the fuel pump lost pressure without havinging any power and after an initial start it restore the pressure and ran flawless.
Car still not working I am leaning toward the fuel supply not sending to the engine. I un-screwed the fuel line (see image) from the engine compartment and only see 2, 3 drops of gasoline. Is this normal or I suppose to see a lot more gasoline come out there? I am trying to see if this is actually the issue with fuel pump or power line to the pump. I am looking for the below information:
Where is fuel pressure test port location? I want to plug in the fuel gauge to test the compression
Is there instruction how to test the fuel pump relay/power?
Can I jumper (temporary) from the fuel pump relay socket to by pass the relay? if so which ports(number) should I jump together (see image)?
I found the fuse pump on the back seat on the passenger side. I checked the voltage by contact the two leads from the multimeter to the wire (without press the start button) and saw a 11.21 volt reading. not sure if this is the right way to test and the voltage reading suppose to be??? The weird thing is that I did not press the start button but constantly get the 11.21 Volt reading???
When pressed the start button on/off, I could hear/feel the relay clicks and heard slight hum from the fuel pump for a second or two.
what else do I have to check?
How do I verify if the pump is working? Is there a way to provide power directly to the pump to see if it is running??
ETCS fuse is OK, Pump relay is OK, fuel pump is OK. I even removed the fuel line, put it in the bottle and turned on and off the push start button and saw gasoline coming into the bottle. Can I assume that fuel system is working?
My car still has the error P2118
How do I verify if the connectivity from the ETCS fuse to the ECM. Where is the ECM locate and which wire I need to check for voltage/continuity between ETCS and ECM. Does anyone have any idea?
09-11-18, 11:31 AM
Thanks
