IS250 AWD Front Axles & CV Boot Issue
#1
IS250 AWD Front Axles & CV Boot Issue
My IS is a 2010. I drove for years static no issues at all .didn't bag my car til June of this yr. Last summer around May I noticed the cv boots were leaking and my Axel's were making noise so I had it all replaced. April of this year (still on coils) noticed the front passenger side was going bad again . Immediately had it replaced and when I drove it home car started shaking bad and I had to pull over .went over to that axel and smoke started coming out. Towed the car back to the shop, and they replaced the axel again. 2nd try made it almost home and axel broke off completely when I was almost home .3rd attempt no issues since. So now I have issues with the driver side car is at a different shop, the original shop that did both sides last year . Went through two in two days, and today they will attempt a third try . Keep in mind I am riding higher than I ever was since I'm bagged now . Rolling diameter on my tires are the same. So not sure what's causing the issues here
#6
This happened to me, brother. Crappy advance auto and autozone cv axles... broke the passenger side 3 times in 2 weeks. Im lowered but not as much as you lol. Bit the bullet and got oem ones and it has been smooth for a few months now... with a slight awd vibration lol
#7
This happened to me, brother. Crappy advance auto and autozone cv axles... broke the passenger side 3 times in 2 weeks. Im lowered but not as much as you lol. Bit the bullet and got oem ones and it has been smooth for a few months now... with a slight awd vibration lol
Last edited by RDIS250AWD; 08-09-18 at 06:31 AM.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Are you really saying the axle joint went up in smoke? That sounds more like a stuck caliper or totally dry wheel bearing. Never ever ever seen a CV joint smoke. Pop and click yes. Grenade yes. Smoke never.
If inner trunnion joint is pinned against the diff and can not freely float inwards or is pulled out too far, that will kill the inboard joint (trunnion). Outer should live unless the angle is excess.
If inner trunnion joint is pinned against the diff and can not freely float inwards or is pulled out too far, that will kill the inboard joint (trunnion). Outer should live unless the angle is excess.
#9
Mine smoked a little too because the boot leaked and was spewing grease to the hot rotor. But that was in my situation...
Are you really saying the axle joint went up in smoke? That sounds more like a stuck caliper or totally dry wheel bearing. Never ever ever seen a CV joint smoke. Pop and click yes. Grenade yes. Smoke never.
If inner trunnion joint is pinned against the diff and can not freely float inwards or is pulled out too far, that will kill the inboard joint (trunnion). Outer should live unless the angle is excess.
If inner trunnion joint is pinned against the diff and can not freely float inwards or is pulled out too far, that will kill the inboard joint (trunnion). Outer should live unless the angle is excess.
#10
#11
so this is my ride height when I'm driving so I know that has nothing to do with what's going wrong with the axle anyways try to our third one today different brand which was $100 more than the aftermarket one that we've been using and that ended up failing to which is weird because the same one is on the passenger side and it's working just fine
#12
Last pic is the passenger side which is fine now. . so I just took the car out this is our third replacement this week for the driver side . this time using the Axel from the same place we got that's good on the passenger side right now . I drove the car for 15-20 minutes between 60 to 80 miles per hour and it failed .
Last edited by RDIS250AWD; 08-09-18 at 04:42 PM.
#14
Racer
so this is my ride height when I'm driving so I know that has nothing to do with what's going wrong with the axle anyways try to our third one today different brand which was $100 more than the aftermarket one that we've been using and that ended up failing to which is weird because the same one is on the passenger side and it's working just fine
#15
Yeah, wow.... i was in the same predicament thinking I installed it wrong and or something was misaligned. I would buy a used one from the junkyard to try it out as its a lot cheaper than a new one to see if that solves your problem. Carparts has them for fairly cheap now.... The quality between oem and aftermarket really is night and day. There is a lot play by the joints in the aftermarket but the oem was super stiff. If I remember right, were you the one that installed washers for transmount to raise it up so the suspension geometry didn’t change too much?