Hey my is started giving this issue just had battery replaced two weeks ago but this started happening off and on but now it hasn’t stopped. When I use the key fob to unlock the car only the driver side unlocks all other doors stay locked and even when I unlock from the inside only driver side opens. Any thoughts?
Also when I hold the handle from the outside on the passenger side door it beeps for 3 seconds like it’s locking but nothing happens. When I do it from the drivers side only the driver side opens. It used to open all. Also I recently got my battery changed a week ago if that is relevant information
Hello. New member here. Were you able to find a solution for this? I am experiencing the same exact problem with my 2011 IS250.
Thank you
i had to change the module in the passenger side of the dash.
Got off eBay for $22
Hello. I am experiencing the same issue with my 2011 Lexus IS250. I bought the control module of ebay. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.
- Did you have to remove the glove department to gain access to replace it?
- What needs to be reprogrammed (if any) after the swap?
I very much appreciate any input you can provide before i dive deep into it this weekend. Thanks again :-)
Hey guys
I have 09 IS300 (similar to IS250 and IS350), I have the same problem , all three passenger doors are not unlocking by remote control switch and also the driver door *****.
I tried to press both ***** in remote controllers but nothing changed .
can anybody help , thanks in addvance
This is the control module. There are also two more harness connections on the back side Notice the open space between it and the glove dept filter? There is an entertainment module that I took out of there to allow for space to disconnect the old and reconnect the new. You will see the entertainment module in the second photo. Bad unit removed
I will into details about what I experienced. The problem started few months ago where the passenger door locks will always lock but sometimes will unlock and this is using the remote or the lock / unlock buttons on the front two doors. Keep in mind, the driver side door lock and unlocks perfectly. As time went by, the driver side door continued to operate perfectly but the remaining three passenger doors completely stopped unlocking using the remote and door buttons. The only way to unlock was to force it by hand. However, they continued to lock using the remote and door buttons with no problem.
I thought maybe the door lock actuators were bad however i found it strange that all three went bad at one. I took apart the door panels and tested the voltage at the lock actuators when sending the lock and unlock commands. I discovered hat there was a spike in voltage when pressing lock but zero voltage when pressing unlock. I rigged two cables from the lock actuator harness to the lock actuators while reversing polarity (meaning the lock command should unlock the door and vice versa). This will rule out that the issue is not with the actuators. Sure enough, with my little experiment, pressing unlock unlocked that door. That told me that the door actuators do lock and unlock electronically and verified to me that the issue voltage related. After research online and after seeing Coleslaw08 post on this thread, I was able to locate that control module (fuse box) that is located underneath the passenger side dash behind the glove department. There is a "Door Locks" fuse located in this fuse box. The fuse was ok. However, when I removed the fuse, The door locks continued to behave the same. That told me that the issue is with this module because removing the fuse should seize all lock / unlock functions.
Dealerships wanted $900 for the module. I bought a used one off ebay for $28.It appears that 2006 through 2012 Lexus IS250 models share the same module. My car is 2011 but the module I bought came from a 2009. Make sure you do your research. As of this post, there are a few on ebay for sale. One way to tell if it matched your car is to match the fuse lid cover (see pictures below)
To replace it, you will need to remove side dash panel, lower dash panel, knee air bag, and glove department. Make sure you disconnect the battery before anything. The knee airbag harness is long enough where you do not need to disconnect it... i recommend not disconnecting it.
I do plan to take it apart in the next day or two. I will report back with my findings.
Very impressive! Good job digging in. Can you post the part number and description of the module? It seems to have more going on than just door locking. Well, at least it looks that way.
Update: So far, no issues with door locks or anything else with the vehicle.
I think i narrowed down the issue with the circuit board. See circled part in the pictures.
I got to that conclusion by tracing the circuit board and continuity testing.
Even if someone is able to obtain a replacement piece, I do not recommend altering the circuit board because if you make a mistake is soldering the replacement piece, you risk causing possible major damage to the electrical system of your vehicle. I suggest everyone do their research based on the issues they are experiencing and make educated decisions.
Hi Abef
You did a very good job , do you think that diode (D026) is responsible for unlocking doors , for me I can replace it since Im electrical engineer and expert in electronic maintenance.
the diode code is not clear in the picture so I can bring replacement before dismantling my car
thanks so much
Firas
I had this same issue a couple of years ago. I was going to replace the actuators and just kept putting it off. eventually it fixed itself. I noticed it shortly after i bought it and it had needed a new battery. I'm wondering if the low voltage caused it to act funny and it eventually fixed itself. From what I've heard and read, it's a fairly common issue on these vehicles. Still can't explain how it miraculously fixed itself. It's been working fine for the last couple of years since then.
Hi im having the same problem with my 2011 is250. Do you have the part number for the replacement trying to locate one currently.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speddon
I had this same issue a couple of years ago. I was going to replace the actuators and just kept putting it off. eventually it fixed itself. I noticed it shortly after i bought it and it had needed a new battery. I'm wondering if the low voltage caused it to act funny and it eventually fixed itself. From what I've heard and read, it's a fairly common issue on these vehicles. Still can't explain how it miraculously fixed itself. It's been working fine for the last couple of years since then.