IS350 won’t start U0105 code mechanic unable to diagnose
01-19-18, 12:29 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
IS350 won’t start U0105 code mechanic unable to diagnose
so I’m leaving work this past Tuesday when I come to a stop light and realize my Bluetooth hasn’t paired so I turn off the car to get the Bluetooth to sync however I forgot to put the car in park, it’s still in drive. After I put it back into park the car won’t start, I push the start button and nothing happens (won’t crank) for two tries and on the 3rd try it starts. I pull away from the light and turn around a corner and the car loses power. Electric is still on, heat, radio it all works but engine is off. I sat for about an hour and it started one time but as soon as I put it in drive it cut out again. Start button does turn green when depressing the brake pedal but brake pedal does seem really stiff.
My mechanic has looked at it for 2 days straight; replaced the fuel injector control model, the battery, and looked at everything else along that line with no luck. Car isn’t flooded either.
RESOLUTION
1. Fuel pressure sensor was bad
2. The fuel pressure sensor ONLY is part number 89458-30010
3. The fuel pressure sensor with the fuel rail is part number 89458-30011 (this is NOT needed), so go with #2 above
Any idea what this could be? Have googled this since Tuesday and can’t find any hint of what it could be.
My mechanic has looked at it for 2 days straight; replaced the fuel injector control model, the battery, and looked at everything else along that line with no luck. Car isn’t flooded either.
RESOLUTION
1. Fuel pressure sensor was bad
2. The fuel pressure sensor ONLY is part number 89458-30010
3. The fuel pressure sensor with the fuel rail is part number 89458-30011 (this is NOT needed), so go with #2 above
Any idea what this could be? Have googled this since Tuesday and can’t find any hint of what it could be.
Last edited by jamisteven; 01-30-18 at 07:38 PM.
01-19-18, 03:07 PM
#4
Becsuse your engine will not run, it may be a valid code. But the tech could have induced it too.
Did they say anything like it is an active code?
Basically the CAN bus "C+" and "C-" , power, ground and sheilding are the pathway the modules use to talk to each other. These are both under the hood and the FCIM is on the block. The weakest links are power and ground so these need tested at the ECU and FCIM. If good, then verify the data lines between the two modules.
Assuming that is an active code and not one introduced by the tech, another question is;
If the code is cleared, how long until it returns?
If it doesn't return they may be looking at the wrong place(s).
Did they say anything like it is an active code?
Basically the CAN bus "C+" and "C-" , power, ground and sheilding are the pathway the modules use to talk to each other. These are both under the hood and the FCIM is on the block. The weakest links are power and ground so these need tested at the ECU and FCIM. If good, then verify the data lines between the two modules.
Assuming that is an active code and not one introduced by the tech, another question is;
If the code is cleared, how long until it returns?
If it doesn't return they may be looking at the wrong place(s).
Last edited by 2013FSport; 01-19-18 at 03:20 PM.
01-19-18, 08:16 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
01-20-18, 01:35 PM
#6
Its in the manual to use this as an option to run the accessories. I do it and turning the engine off is part of driving. Yes, a heck of a coincidence.... Perhaps if your battery opened up internally and failed and the alternator put a voltage/current spike into the system, this played a roll but still.
You get any answers to the questions I asked above? It is pretty easy to introduce CAN bus error while testing.
You get any answers to the questions I asked above? It is pretty easy to introduce CAN bus error while testing.
01-21-18, 06:50 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Its in the manual to use this as an option to run the accessories. I do it and turning the engine off is part of driving. Yes, a heck of a coincidence.... Perhaps if your battery opened up internally and failed and the alternator put a voltage/current spike into the system, this played a roll but still.
You get any answers to the questions I asked above? It is pretty easy to introduce CAN bus error while testing.
You get any answers to the questions I asked above? It is pretty easy to introduce CAN bus error while testing.
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01-30-18, 07:39 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
RESOLUTION
1. Fuel pressure sensor was bad
2. The fuel pressure sensor ONLY is part number 89458-30010
3. The fuel pressure sensor with the fuel rail is part number 89458-30011 (this is NOT needed), so go with #2 above
1. Fuel pressure sensor was bad
2. The fuel pressure sensor ONLY is part number 89458-30010
3. The fuel pressure sensor with the fuel rail is part number 89458-30011 (this is NOT needed), so go with #2 above
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AmirMubrk (11-20-21)
11-20-21, 02:36 AM
#9
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