Rear Diff Fluid Leak and Transmission Question
12-25-17, 01:04 PM
#1
Rear Diff Fluid Leak and Transmission Question
Noticed rear diff fluid leak yesterday when I had the car jacked up on all fours for an an oil change. The leak is coming from the rear right axle. Did some research and I think it's the seal that's causing the leak. The left axle is dry and no fluid is coming from it. Let me know what you all think.
My second question is regarding the ATF. I just hit over 190k miles on the original ATF. I've read a lot of threads and people are either for or against changing the ATF. The people who do change it do it before 100k, and people say if you're over 100k on the original ATF, you should not mess with it. What should I do? I want to drive this car until it craps out. At this rate I think the transmission will give before anything else major. The shifting is a bit jerky when I accelerate hard on the car, but other than that, not any problems with the tranny.
My second question is regarding the ATF. I just hit over 190k miles on the original ATF. I've read a lot of threads and people are either for or against changing the ATF. The people who do change it do it before 100k, and people say if you're over 100k on the original ATF, you should not mess with it. What should I do? I want to drive this car until it craps out. At this rate I think the transmission will give before anything else major. The shifting is a bit jerky when I accelerate hard on the car, but other than that, not any problems with the tranny.
12-25-17, 01:40 PM
#2
Looks like seal is done. Confirm the axle has no groove in it where the seal rides and get a new seal in there.
As for the trans, way too many old school thoughts linger which cling to oils from the past. That said it is safe to change fluid as long as its not varnished. Varnished meaning its yellow and smells of paint thinner.
Drop the plug on the pan and get some fluid out to see the color and smell. If its just dark and used, dump it and begin the refresh service. In short, dump whats in it using the pan bolt. Take note of how much comes out. Start it for like 7 seconds and the converter will dump about another quart into the pan. Measure the total volume that came out.
Refill: put back the amount that came out when first dumped. Start the engine and let it idle down. You can't put back all that came out without starting it or it will simply over fill the pan and spill.
After running a few minutes and placed from drive to reverse a couple of times turn it off and add the remaining fluid. Do a 15" drive and repeat. You'll get about 80% of the fluid replaced. If you do not start it to dump the fluid, you're getting about 55% for the two dump cycles.
As for the trans, way too many old school thoughts linger which cling to oils from the past. That said it is safe to change fluid as long as its not varnished. Varnished meaning its yellow and smells of paint thinner.
Drop the plug on the pan and get some fluid out to see the color and smell. If its just dark and used, dump it and begin the refresh service. In short, dump whats in it using the pan bolt. Take note of how much comes out. Start it for like 7 seconds and the converter will dump about another quart into the pan. Measure the total volume that came out.
Refill: put back the amount that came out when first dumped. Start the engine and let it idle down. You can't put back all that came out without starting it or it will simply over fill the pan and spill.
After running a few minutes and placed from drive to reverse a couple of times turn it off and add the remaining fluid. Do a 15" drive and repeat. You'll get about 80% of the fluid replaced. If you do not start it to dump the fluid, you're getting about 55% for the two dump cycles.
12-26-17, 08:47 AM
#3
does the rear axle come out without having to remove the rear hub from the car?
this is the most detailed DIY instructions I could find on my.is
this is the most detailed DIY instructions I could find on my.is
Undo the axle nut holding th axle to the hub
Unbolt any necassary bolts to get enough manuevability to get the axle out of the hub
Take a prybar wedge it between the diff and the axle and push the axle out of the diff
The axle seal is like a rubber gasket o-ring type thing all you need is a small pick to pull it out
Take the axle socket used to unbolt the axle nut put it over the new seal and lightly using a mallet hammer it into place
Put the axle all the way back in. You may want to memorize how far the axle goes into the diff so you know its in all the way
Put the axle through the hub
Put everything back together
Make sure to toque the axle nut to proper specs
Thats basically it
Unbolt any necassary bolts to get enough manuevability to get the axle out of the hub
Take a prybar wedge it between the diff and the axle and push the axle out of the diff
The axle seal is like a rubber gasket o-ring type thing all you need is a small pick to pull it out
Take the axle socket used to unbolt the axle nut put it over the new seal and lightly using a mallet hammer it into place
Put the axle all the way back in. You may want to memorize how far the axle goes into the diff so you know its in all the way
Put the axle through the hub
Put everything back together
Make sure to toque the axle nut to proper specs
Thats basically it
12-26-17, 03:41 PM
#4
If it were mine, I would not go to that much work.
Leave the axle nut alone.
Remove the Outer Tie rod end, The lower control arm (outer end), the track bar outer end. If you can't get enough movement, you may need to undo the shock bolt.
To get the axle out of the diff, pry equally from TWO SIDES with with larger screw drivers. A quick snap pops it out. That said, PRYING FROM ONE SIDE ONLY, wedges it into place. Use two large screw drivers 180 degrees from each other or as close to that as possible. Be nice to the boots and don't rip them.
Install the seal. You'll need a seal driver. Be sure to grease the lips of the seal and seat it fully.
Install is a lot the same. Once the axle is started into the side gear, use the mass of the hub and axle to (pull back) and snap the axle into the side gear.
Assemble the suspension components. You can fully tighten the toe adjuster nut as it's a ball joint.
Start all of the others and simply snug them so nothing falls apart.
Fill diff with oil. Maybe some new synthetic??
Drive the vehicle onto blocks or ramps so the rear is fully loaded supporting the car and as level as possible. Tighten all of the remaining pinch bolts, shock, control arm, track arm.
Done.
Leave the axle nut alone.
Remove the Outer Tie rod end, The lower control arm (outer end), the track bar outer end. If you can't get enough movement, you may need to undo the shock bolt.
To get the axle out of the diff, pry equally from TWO SIDES with with larger screw drivers. A quick snap pops it out. That said, PRYING FROM ONE SIDE ONLY, wedges it into place. Use two large screw drivers 180 degrees from each other or as close to that as possible. Be nice to the boots and don't rip them.
Install the seal. You'll need a seal driver. Be sure to grease the lips of the seal and seat it fully.
Install is a lot the same. Once the axle is started into the side gear, use the mass of the hub and axle to (pull back) and snap the axle into the side gear.
Assemble the suspension components. You can fully tighten the toe adjuster nut as it's a ball joint.
Start all of the others and simply snug them so nothing falls apart.
Fill diff with oil. Maybe some new synthetic??
Drive the vehicle onto blocks or ramps so the rear is fully loaded supporting the car and as level as possible. Tighten all of the remaining pinch bolts, shock, control arm, track arm.
Done.
The following users liked this post:
thedude910 (01-26-22)
12-27-17, 07:11 AM
#5
eh, I ended up just dropping it at the dealership. I mean, I could try to do it but theres no clear DIY thread with pictures or videos on a 2nd Gen IS. Really don't feel like going in blind and spending my weekend working on the car (even though I hate it so much to give my money to the dealership).
Trending Topics
01-11-18, 12:28 PM
#12
UPDATE: They replaced the seal a second time and there was still leaking. Car is still at the dealership and they are replacing the seal again for the third time. It's been 2 weeks and 1 day since I dropped it off. Still driving the RX 350.
01-16-18, 01:41 PM
#13
UPDATE: After two whole weeks and 4 days, I picked up my car yesterday. They replaced the rear right axle seal three times, and in the process, damaged my wheel buy using air/power tools to remove the lungs. Now my lug holes are all scratched and marred. Waiting for how the dealership will compensate for my damages. Pretty pissed off/disappointed in this particular dealership. This is the first and last time I go there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post