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Bought an is350 Saturday, maf code last night, coil misfire today, please help
So last night the car randomly stalled and threw a P0102 code. It would start after a few tries, and I was unable to clear the code. By this morning the code was gone, and on my way to work, the car threw a P0353 and started to run horrible with no power, what is going on?
I am 1hr away from home at work with only a generic scanner, so to get me home I had no choice but to order a generic duralast coil that will be here at 2. My generic scanner tells me that P0353 is "coil c", does anyone know where the location of "c" or P0353 is?
First off does this engine have any mods to the intake and what is the status of the air filter? Is it there?
A vacuum leak or dirty/damaged MAF sensor could cause this and possibly the coil misfire code. Why, because the engine doesnt know how much air is present. Can your scan tool read the DTC data?
At a minimum inspect air intake from filter to TB to verify there are no tears or vacuum leaks. Inspect MAF sensor and connector for wire damage, pin damage, connector seated and not corroded. Dont quote me on this but I beleive it is safe to spray these MAF sensors with MAF cleaner. Please verify. If safe, hose down MAF sensor.
The coils detect ring back if the plug fires and assists the crankshafts velocity. Look first at the connector of coil #3 (RF is 1, 3, 5, LF is 2, 4, 6). Then pull that coil and inspect that plug. Again, misfire could be from MAF sensor but it doesn't hurt to check the plug and maybe move the coil to a new location to see if the code follows it.
First off does this engine have any mods to the intake and what is the status of the air filter? Is it there?
A vacuum leak or dirty/damaged MAF sensor could cause this and possibly the coil misfire code. Why, because the engine doesnt know how much air is present. Can your scan tool read the DTC data?
At a minimum inspect air intake from filter to TB to verify there are no tears or vacuum leaks. Inspect MAF sensor and connector for wire damage, pin damage, connector seated and not corroded. Dont quote me on this but I beleive it is safe to spray these MAF sensors with MAF cleaner. Please verify. If safe, hose down MAF sensor.
The coils detect ring back if the plug fires and assists the crankshafts velocity. Look first at the connector of coil #3 (RF is 1, 3, 5, LF is 2, 4, 6). Then pull that coil and inspect that plug. Again, misfire could be from MAF sensor but it doesn't hurt to check the plug and maybe move the coil to a new location to see if the code follows it.
I did clean the MAF last night when it threw the code. The first time I was able to clear the code, and it came back about 20 mins later, but the next times I went to clear the code, and it must have immediately came back, because it never cleared. I find that odd as I thought the MAF had to fault for 3 seconds before throwing out a code..
Anyways, I went out at lunchtime, checked for leaks (stock intake), did not find any, but the clamp was not tightened on the throttle body, tightened it down and cleared codes, took it down the road while it was running perfect, on the way back the codes came back and the engine is running very rough when it throws the code. So today it has never once thrown the MAF sensor code again, only the coil "P0353" as a current fault followed by P0351 "coil A" and P0355 "coil E" as pending faults. Those pending faults come with the current fault as I have cleared them before, figured I would mention that they are there for troubleshooting purposes.
My scanner on me does not do DTC, but at my house (and hour away) I do have techstream and a techstream cable. I had scanned yesterday to look for faults that maybe the dealership was hiding, and didn't find anything new. (this was before I threw any codes at all, just my curiosity, haven't got to scan with techstream since I have gotten these codes)
I did unplug coil #3 and start the car, and rescanned to see if unplugging it would throw another code, but it still stayed the same with the P0353 current, and P0351 and p0355 pending.
Just becasue a plug looks ok that doesn't mean it is ok. The differenece from a P0303 and 353 is the ecu detected the cranks velocity as a misfire as the power stroke and plug firing did not jive with its calculations.
The P0353 is being more specific and saying the coils electrical signature did not present as an actual electrical arc across the plugs gap. So unless this has 150,000 miles or more, replace the plug.
The problem is this could be a downstream problem of excessive fueling from a bad MAF sensor. As stated above, either move the coil pack to a different hole or replace the plugs. Knowing you have multiple pending is new info.
FWIW - newb here to this chassis but plenty of hands on diagnostics in my past. That said not all yoda MAF sensors accept maf cleaner and live.
Can someone verify these sensors can be cleaned with MAF cleaner?
It might not be the coil pack itself but maybe a bad spark plug making the car think it's the pack. Check ALL plugs out when at home tonight!
^^ +10
Completely agree but I would replace them.
Also get a silver Sharpie and number your coil packs as to where they were found originally and move them. If the fault codes follow them, well, time will tell. But start with new plugs of the proper gap. Verify the gap. There are safe methods to correct the gap, but you must check them.
I have not been able to move the coils or look at the plugs (only so much time in the day). I left work early yesterday and the coil code was gone, but the MAF code was back. Installed a new MAF, and the code stayed, rescanned the car with the new MAF, and also without the MAF, codes stayed the same. Its like the car did not even notice when the MAF was hooked up or disconnected, the engine sounded the same, and it always takes 2 tries to start the car. did a health check when I got home with techstream, still only the MAF code. Drove it 100 miles away to the dealer, and the car stalled 3 times on the way there on the highway, the dealer also installed a new maf, with same result. They think that it is the MAF connector, I am worried it is a short in the harness, because a sensor should not make the car stall going down the road, and I am not sure what was going on with the coils.
Have you guys ever heard of any issues like this with these cars? Can the coil code that is no longer there have anything to do with the MAF, can a bad coil make the car not read a MAF?
Coils do not impact MAF.
In limp mode and not knowing how much air is being drawn into the engine it will throw other codes. Those IMO are very likely a symptom and not the actual problem.
But then again, without inspection where you could find a broken or damaged plug, we won't know.
You need a schematic and trace the MAF wires back to the ECM checking continuity and power.
Pull up the TIS website, pay the $15 and study the MAF circuit. Then tell the tech what is wrong. Personally I'd trace the colors in the loom to the next connector and see what you find there.
Ok, so I am trying to trace back what is going on, but cannot find any information on where to locate all the relay boxes, especially engine room J/B and R?B No.2. Anyone have a diagram showing the locations?
*Right after posting this, I found this. Posting here in case it helps anyone in the future with the same issue.
I was able to get to step 5. I did get over 10 k testing from E29-3 to Ground (just now noticed it said body ground, I used batt ground, not sure if that matters), but I did not get any value at all testing from E29-3 to 2A-8, does this mean I really need a new harness??? If so, it does not state which harness I actually need, does anyone know which harness it is, because there is no way I am buying a brand new one. Thanks guys for all the help.
Im not sure where you found that end at, but do verify the wire color is the same from point to point.
The next option assuming colors align and test method is good, bypass the connector and use a needle to pierce the jacket.
For example: on connector E29, probe the open female connector and pierce the jacket several inches away. If the connector to wire is good, you get zero ohms. Right.
repeat on the 2A connector. If both provide zero to 1.0ohm, you now know the wire is broken in the middle. Make sense?
Your options are to probe further and further or bypass the bad section with a new wire.
Usually it is a termination vs wire length unless that length has been damaged.
PM me if you get stuck.
Im not sure where you found that end at, but do verify the wire color is the same from point to point.
The next option assuming colors align and test method is good, bypass the connector and use a needle to pierce the jacket.
For example: on connector E29, probe the open female connector and pierce the jacket several inches away. If the connector to wire is good, you get zero ohms. Right.
repeat on the 2A connector. If both provide zero to 1.0ohm, you now know the wire is broken in the middle. Make sense?
Your options are to probe further and further or bypass the bad section with a new wire.
Usually it is a termination vs wire length unless that length has been damaged.
PM me if you get stuck.
Ok thanks, I will try this tomorrow after I get off work. As far as where I found that end at, it was what the guide had narrowed me down to in the link I provided. I am not sure, but I am assuming that that link was a scan that someone had taken from the TIS website, I'm not against spending $15, I just assumed that was the same material.
If you where asking where I located the plug of the integration relay, it was underneath this circled relay. It's late, and I cannot remember how I came to the conclusion that this is the integration relay that the troubleshooting guide was referring (it's not very clear), but anyways, I pulled it out and underneath it, there are 3 plugs that look like in the diagram with "2A" "2B' and "2C". That is where I tested the plug of what I assumed was "2A", but I could be completely off base and testing the wrong relay, since the guide was so unclear of which exact integration relay, and I know the integration relay all the way to the left in the pic is not it, that one had different plugs.
10-02-17, 06:37 AM
Bought an is350 Saturday, maf code last night, coil misfire today, please help
