Replaced Alternator, Now Car Won't Start. HELP!
01-30-18, 06:01 PM
#16
I know this is a bump, but hopefully it helps others. I had the same problem, replaced the alternator day before, start button was green when i pressed on the brake, and there was no clicking noise (i kind of ruled the starter out as it ws replaced just a year before) and after reading a thread on the GS forums, I pushed on the wiring loom that passes over the alternator, then goes below the exhaust manifold on the driver side. This wire goes to the starter, and I guess while replacing the alternator, the shop snagged the wire enough to make a poor connection to the starter. Worth looking into.
05-20-18, 10:28 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am having the same type of issue on my 2007 is250. I changed the ballast in the headlight and in the process blew the alternator fuse. I replaced the fuse linkage and also P/S ecu with a 2010 p/s ecu and got rid of the P/S light from the dash but I still have the TRAC and VSC lights on. Don't know what to do next any insight guys?
05-21-18, 08:38 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Checked and working fine. Tested with circuit checker and pulled fuse to insure it's okay. As well as every fuse in the car has been checked both boxes in the car and engine bay.
I have noticed that the security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the car doors. The start button does turn green after pressing the brake but the security light keeps flashing.
I have noticed that the security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the car doors. The start button does turn green after pressing the brake but the security light keeps flashing.
05-21-18, 11:51 AM
#20
Interesting.... in the owners manual it states the following:
If the starter motor does not turn over the engine;
"There may be a malfunction in the steering lock system."
No clue if the steering lock talks to the steering ECM. I don't see a need for it, but....
My best guess is this; pull the starter relay and ohm the small wire to the starter solenoid to ground. I'm just guessing here but I'd expect about 10 to 15 ohms. If it shows something higher than 50 ohms or infinite, your starter wire to the starter solenoid is disconnected from the starter.
Another test option is to supply this same wire with 12v from the battery. It should energize the starter. Do so at your own risk. Be very careful about inserting power to the sockets spade. If you choose wrong, you do damage. Look the relay over close. Confirm where its pins go.
If the starter motor does not turn over the engine;
"There may be a malfunction in the steering lock system."
No clue if the steering lock talks to the steering ECM. I don't see a need for it, but....
My best guess is this; pull the starter relay and ohm the small wire to the starter solenoid to ground. I'm just guessing here but I'd expect about 10 to 15 ohms. If it shows something higher than 50 ohms or infinite, your starter wire to the starter solenoid is disconnected from the starter.
Another test option is to supply this same wire with 12v from the battery. It should energize the starter. Do so at your own risk. Be very careful about inserting power to the sockets spade. If you choose wrong, you do damage. Look the relay over close. Confirm where its pins go.
05-21-18, 12:27 PM
#21
Checked and working fine. Tested with circuit checker and pulled fuse to insure it's okay. As well as every fuse in the car has been checked both boxes in the car and engine bay.
I have noticed that the security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the car doors. The start button does turn green after pressing the brake but the security light keeps flashing.
I have noticed that the security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the car doors. The start button does turn green after pressing the brake but the security light keeps flashing.
Reference video: How to use key
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzn6Y7XTe4I
Maybe it will work.
Last edited by MikeFig82; 05-21-18 at 12:37 PM.
05-21-18, 02:02 PM
#22
Its normal for the security light to flash until the ignition is switched on. Just watched it do it a few minutes ago.
Jumping or ohming the solenoid wire will tell you a lot.
Like is the wire to the starter selenoid connected after work was completed?
Does the starter work.
It will basically tell if the problem is the electronics to the relay or something after the relay which dramatically alters where/what you are troubleshooting. It steers the ship in a known direction if you catch my line of thinking.
Of course you can put a test lamp in the starter circuit relay to its solenoid and IF IT DOES NOT light when the starter button is being pushed you know its never going to start until you pinpoint the real issue in the electronics.
Make sense?
Jumping or ohming the solenoid wire will tell you a lot.
Like is the wire to the starter selenoid connected after work was completed?
Does the starter work.
It will basically tell if the problem is the electronics to the relay or something after the relay which dramatically alters where/what you are troubleshooting. It steers the ship in a known direction if you catch my line of thinking.
Of course you can put a test lamp in the starter circuit relay to its solenoid and IF IT DOES NOT light when the starter button is being pushed you know its never going to start until you pinpoint the real issue in the electronics.
Make sense?
05-21-18, 05:52 PM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its normal for the security light to flash until the ignition is switched on. Just watched it do it a few minutes ago.
Jumping or ohming the solenoid wire will tell you a lot.
Like is the wire to the starter selenoid connected after work was completed?
Does the starter work.
It will basically tell if the problem is the electronics to the relay or something after the relay which dramatically alters where/what you are troubleshooting. It steers the ship in a known direction if you catch my line of thinking.
Of course you can put a test lamp in the starter circuit relay to its solenoid and IF IT DOES NOT light when the starter button is being pushed you know its never going to start until you pinpoint the real issue in the electronics.
Make sense?
Jumping or ohming the solenoid wire will tell you a lot.
Like is the wire to the starter selenoid connected after work was completed?
Does the starter work.
It will basically tell if the problem is the electronics to the relay or something after the relay which dramatically alters where/what you are troubleshooting. It steers the ship in a known direction if you catch my line of thinking.
Of course you can put a test lamp in the starter circuit relay to its solenoid and IF IT DOES NOT light when the starter button is being pushed you know its never going to start until you pinpoint the real issue in the electronics.
Make sense?
05-21-18, 05:52 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-21-18, 06:44 PM
#25
Some info on the website mentions. Pushing the unlock twice before starting the car. Another says my first post lock all doors and trying opening the passenger side with the key.
Your next step would be follow Fsports advice.
Hopefully you can resolve this issue soon.
Your next step would be follow Fsports advice.
Hopefully you can resolve this issue soon.
05-21-18, 07:00 PM
#26
The solenoid is on the starter. Its basically a magnet when DC energy is applied hence its very low resistance.
The starter relay is is by the battery. The OEM one is purple and has 4 conductors. One set is for its coil (it will measure resistance). The other set, one wire goes to the starter solenoid, the other likely goes to ground. Use the post above and a test lamp to ground to verify the relay has power when the start button is pushed.
If this works, your engine should have been cranking. Here is where you ohm the solenoid wire to ground using the other pin.
Im guessing but of the 4 pins in the relay socket pair up like so.
A1 is signal to crank.
A2 goes to GND. This pair engage the relay to close the contacts (B) powering the starter solenoid with +12v.
B1 goes to starter solenoid
B2 is likely switched +12v, but could be hot all the time but I doubt it.
Verify all of these.
The starter relay is is by the battery. The OEM one is purple and has 4 conductors. One set is for its coil (it will measure resistance). The other set, one wire goes to the starter solenoid, the other likely goes to ground. Use the post above and a test lamp to ground to verify the relay has power when the start button is pushed.
If this works, your engine should have been cranking. Here is where you ohm the solenoid wire to ground using the other pin.
Im guessing but of the 4 pins in the relay socket pair up like so.
A1 is signal to crank.
A2 goes to GND. This pair engage the relay to close the contacts (B) powering the starter solenoid with +12v.
B1 goes to starter solenoid
B2 is likely switched +12v, but could be hot all the time but I doubt it.
Verify all of these.
05-21-18, 09:14 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Testing starter relay
The solenoid is on the starter. Its basically a magnet when DC energy is applied hence its very low resistance.
The starter relay is is by the battery. The OEM one is purple and has 4 conductors. One set is for its coil (it will measure resistance). The other set, one wire goes to the starter solenoid, the other likely goes to ground. Use the post above and a test lamp to ground to verify the relay has power when the start button is pushed.
If this works, your engine should have been cranking. Here is where you ohm the solenoid wire to ground using the other pin.
Im guessing but of the 4 pins in the relay socket pair up like so.
A1 is signal to crank.
A2 goes to GND. This pair engage the relay to close the contacts (B) powering the starter solenoid with +12v.
B1 goes to starter solenoid
B2 is likely switched +12v, but could be hot all the time but I doubt it.
Verify all of these.
The starter relay is is by the battery. The OEM one is purple and has 4 conductors. One set is for its coil (it will measure resistance). The other set, one wire goes to the starter solenoid, the other likely goes to ground. Use the post above and a test lamp to ground to verify the relay has power when the start button is pushed.
If this works, your engine should have been cranking. Here is where you ohm the solenoid wire to ground using the other pin.
Im guessing but of the 4 pins in the relay socket pair up like so.
A1 is signal to crank.
A2 goes to GND. This pair engage the relay to close the contacts (B) powering the starter solenoid with +12v.
B1 goes to starter solenoid
B2 is likely switched +12v, but could be hot all the time but I doubt it.
Verify all of these.
so pretty much what you are saying is to use the guide I have attached here to test it? I found it online hoping it would help someone else.
Edit: I checked the relay and it seems to be working fine.
Last edited by monsterfa; 05-21-18 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Additional data
05-21-18, 09:20 PM
#28
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I have tried this and as soon as [Check] and [Completed] are shown in the cluster, the security light stops flashing. I attempted to do both methods you listed without any luck, but many thanks to you buddy for your input. I don't know what else to keep trying. It is driving me nuts! It's been like a week and a half and taking an Uber to and fro work everyday is getting really expensive.
05-22-18, 05:57 AM
#29
No its nothing like the diagram. I never said test the relay. They hardly ever ever ever fail.
Buy a 12v test lamp and follow the instructions. If the relay NEVER GETS A SIGNAL from the electronics you're screwed and honestly just tow it to stealership.
If the TWO tests suggested 1) show the test lamp getting power when cranking, 2) you applied power to the solenoid wire and the STARTER does not respond, this problem is the wire to the starter or the starter.
Do you understand what the relay does? If not, then this likely makes no sense. Item number 2 here simply has you bypassing the relay w a jumper wire to the solenoid.
Do you own an ohm meter? Ohm from ground to ONE of the 4 wires where the purple relay WAS. One wire goes to the starter solenoid. That same wire when 12v is applied WILL activate the starter on a functioning vehicle.
You have to think in terms of current flow. Maybe I'll sketch something but I don't know the relay pin out so you have to use the info in post 26 to figure it out. This can be done with a hand held meter set to vdc/ohms....
Buy a 12v test lamp and follow the instructions. If the relay NEVER GETS A SIGNAL from the electronics you're screwed and honestly just tow it to stealership.
If the TWO tests suggested 1) show the test lamp getting power when cranking, 2) you applied power to the solenoid wire and the STARTER does not respond, this problem is the wire to the starter or the starter.
Do you understand what the relay does? If not, then this likely makes no sense. Item number 2 here simply has you bypassing the relay w a jumper wire to the solenoid.
Do you own an ohm meter? Ohm from ground to ONE of the 4 wires where the purple relay WAS. One wire goes to the starter solenoid. That same wire when 12v is applied WILL activate the starter on a functioning vehicle.
You have to think in terms of current flow. Maybe I'll sketch something but I don't know the relay pin out so you have to use the info in post 26 to figure it out. This can be done with a hand held meter set to vdc/ohms....
Last edited by 2013FSport; 05-22-18 at 06:02 AM.
05-22-18, 07:54 AM
#30
Looked at your diagram.
Bare bones - do this:
Remove relay keeping pins 1 & 2 and 3 & 5 in orientation with the socket.
Ohm to ground pins 1 & 2 (socket). Determine which goes to ground (battery Neg). Meter will read like <3.0 ohms... Lets say thats pin #2. OHM pin #1, lets say thats infinite or > 1,000 ohms.
Insert your test lamp On Pin #1 attaching the other end to Ground (batt Neg). Push the start button. Does the lamp light??? If yes, Great News, you narrowed the problem to the starter or wire to the solenoid. If no, tow it to Lexus.
TEST #2
Key On, meter set to vdc or test lamp, connect meter or lamp to ground. Probe socket pins 3 & 5. One should have 12vdc. The other nothing. Let say the nothing side is pin 5.
Set meter to Ohms. Ohm pin 5 to ground. It should be like 5 to 20 ohms. If its not, you likely knocked the wire loose installing the alternator.
If it has like 5 ohms of resistance, use a small jumper wire into pin 5, tap the wires other end to battery plus +12. What do you hear? Does it click? Does the starter turn the engine over?
Thats the basics. Let us know what you find.
Bare bones - do this:
Remove relay keeping pins 1 & 2 and 3 & 5 in orientation with the socket.
Ohm to ground pins 1 & 2 (socket). Determine which goes to ground (battery Neg). Meter will read like <3.0 ohms... Lets say thats pin #2. OHM pin #1, lets say thats infinite or > 1,000 ohms.
Insert your test lamp On Pin #1 attaching the other end to Ground (batt Neg). Push the start button. Does the lamp light??? If yes, Great News, you narrowed the problem to the starter or wire to the solenoid. If no, tow it to Lexus.
TEST #2
Key On, meter set to vdc or test lamp, connect meter or lamp to ground. Probe socket pins 3 & 5. One should have 12vdc. The other nothing. Let say the nothing side is pin 5.
Set meter to Ohms. Ohm pin 5 to ground. It should be like 5 to 20 ohms. If its not, you likely knocked the wire loose installing the alternator.
If it has like 5 ohms of resistance, use a small jumper wire into pin 5, tap the wires other end to battery plus +12. What do you hear? Does it click? Does the starter turn the engine over?
Thats the basics. Let us know what you find.
