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So finally had some time this weekend to put in the Autozone Alt I bought. Got everything put together and seems to run ok...
One question I had about that super hard nut everyone is complaining about though... So the nut is attached to a stud, that screws into the engine block as shown by FI4runner,
When I unscrewed the nut, luckily the stud came with it, and I was able to remove both nut and stud at the same time. Did you guys have the same experience?
I'm concerned with having to do this job again, and then only the nut comes out, and not the stud, which would require some fancy star shaped bit to remove. Seeems like some really whacky engineering by Lexus...or am I missing something? What is the purpose of this dual-sectioned-thread nut/bolt assembly?
I'm thinking of just getting one long M8-1.25 flanged hex bolt and replacing the stock stud/nut assembly. Any body with the tech manual to tell me why this can't be done?
So finally had some time this weekend to put in the Autozone Alt I bought. Got everything put together and seems to run ok...
One question I had about that super hard nut everyone is complaining about though... So the nut is attached to a stud, that screws into the engine block as shown by FI4runner,
When I unscrewed the nut, luckily the stud came with it, and I was able to remove both nut and stud at the same time. Did you guys have the same experience?
I'm concerned with having to do this job again, and then only the nut comes out, and not the stud, which would require some fancy star shaped bit to remove. Seeems like some really whacky engineering by Lexus...or am I missing something? What is the purpose of this dual-sectioned-thread nut/bolt assembly?
I'm thinking of just getting one long M8-1.25 flanged hex bolt and replacing the stock stud/nut assembly. Any body with the tech manual to tell me why this can't be done?
Thanks again.
I just used a normal boxed end wrench (8mm or a crescent, I don't recall). The stud has edges on it at the end.
There is a hex or some bit that can be used as well but it's not required.
Forgot to upload these pictures after I finished, but here's a couple more tips for anyone starting this their first time:
1) Pretty obvious, but remember to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before starting to disconnect any of the electrical connectors.
2) If you have trouble locating where the nut is, use a pen-sized flashlight/torch, and wiggle your hand directly behind the alternator and shine it slightly downward toward your engine block, you should see the 12mm nut holding the bracket in place as shown in previous post.
3) Loosening the nut/bolt assembly that attaches the alternator bracket to your engine block can best be achieved with : one deep socket 12mm, one 1.5inch extension, one 3inch extension. The total length these three pieces for me totaled 6inches when put together. You should be able to just lock onto the nut by hand first using these three pieces, and then attach a ratchet to to loosen it. Mine was torqued pretty tight, so I attached a homemade metal pipe over my ratchet to use as a breaker bar.
4) After you have reinstalled your alternator, you can reattach the nut by first wrapping your deep socket with a thick plastic or shop towel and masking tape, and then sticking the nut inside the socket. The shop towel or plastic will hold the nut in place without it dropping. Use the three piece extension from previous step to run it in by hand first, and then use ratchet to tighten it (remember to remove masking tape and plastic).
5) Optional, but I wanted to make it easier on the next install just in case this Autozone alt fails out... so replaced the bolt/nut assembly with Fastenal M8-1.25x16mm Flanged bolt (p/n : 11115669).
Forgot to upload these pictures after I finished, but here's a couple more tips for anyone starting this their first time:
1) Pretty obvious, but remember to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before starting to disconnect any of the electrical connectors.
2) If you have trouble locating where the nut is, use a pen-sized flashlight/torch, and wiggle your hand directly behind the alternator and shine it slightly downward toward your engine block, you should see the 12mm nut holding the bracket in place as shown in previous post.
3) Loosening the nut/bolt assembly that attaches the alternator bracket to your engine block can best be achieved with : one deep socket 12mm, one 1.5inch extension, one 3inch extension. The total length these three pieces for me totaled 6inches when put together. You should be able to just lock onto the nut by hand first using these three pieces, and then attach a ratchet to to loosen it. Mine was torqued pretty tight, so I attached a homemade metal pipe over my ratchet to use as a breaker bar.
4) After you have reinstalled your alternator, you can reattach the nut by first wrapping your deep socket with a thick plastic or shop towel and masking tape, and then sticking the nut inside the socket. The shop towel or plastic will hold the nut in place without it dropping. Use the three piece extension from previous step to run it in by hand first, and then use ratchet to tighten it (remember to remove masking tape and plastic).
5) Optional, but I wanted to make it easier on the next install just in case this Autozone alt fails out... so replaced the bolt/nut assembly with Fastenal M8-1.25x16mm Flanged bolt (p/n : 11115669).
So I'm changing out the alternator on my 07 gs350. This DIY has helped me a lot. The only thing I'm not sure of is the plug that is attached to the alternator. Do I just pull it and it pops out?
It's like most other connections on the wiring harness; there's a tab you'll need to depress, and that then allows the plug to be removed from the ALT.
I want to thank everyone here (especially the original poster) for the detailed pictures and helpful hints. Never would've attempted or completed the alternator change out on my 2006 is250. That rear bracket bolt is a ******! Without reading about other posters struggles I would've thrown the towel in and had it towed (in pieces). I couldn't believe it started when I was done.
I made one mistake! I loosened a bolt that I thought just held the a/c line in place, before it headed down. But it was a connection at a90 degree angle. The freon came rushing out! I tightened it back down , but heard it leaking again. I assume I blew out the o ring that completes that connection. Oh well. I probably still saved over $600 dollars. Got the alternator off amazon
I also took the advice of another poster to reinstall the pain in the butt alternator nut/stud. I used an extendable magnet (retracted) taped the joints so nothing would spin when turning it. I then put the stud (with nut still on it) on the tip of the magnet and added tape to secure it more. It still took some time to align it with the opening, but I could let go of it to take a look and see if I was near hole and it would stay because of the magnet. It was nice not having to worry about it slipping out of my fingers or slipping out of socket.
I also want to thank everyone for their posts over the years as I've been fortunate to find many great posts on CL. This is the first time I'm able to "give back" a little. I wish I would have found this post before replacing the alternator on our 2007 GS350 (2GR-FSE) but here are a few lessons I learned from my experience. Again, there are always at least a couple of ways to tackle a job. I did not think to remove the ECM but that would certainly give you a little more room from the top side. I don't know how some of you guys were able to access the nut and bolt that attached the bracket on the aft side of the alternator. I couldn't even see the bolt or nut and never could figure out how dislocate my elbow and fingers to get a socket on either one. Hats off to those that were able to get those two buggers. I ended up putting the car on jack stands and going after the AC Compressor. You DO NOT need to discharge the system. The compressor is attached by 3 bolts and one nut. Loosen the 3 bolts, remove one and leave the other two in temporarily. Remove the nut. Then use a 1/4 inch drive E8 TORX socket to remove the stud. This stud is similar to the stud someone referenced in a earlier post and is the same design used on the alternator stud used as a clamp post (I believe that one is an E6). The stud is only torqued to 10 N-m (7 ft lb) so it doesn't take much to get it loose. I was able to use a 1/4 inch ratchet. Once you remove the stud then remove the remaining bolts and carefully pull the compressor forward and away from the engine block. There is an electrical connector with the same press and release design as the one on the alternator. Remove the electrical connector and temporarily support the compressor. Don't let it just dangle from the refrigerant lines. Once you do this you will have the following view of the alternator bracket. Takes a little more work to get to this point but at least I could see what I was working on Best of luck to the next person and thank you CL community !!!
^Only took me 3hrs, and an hour of that was figuring out the right tools need to get at the lower ALT bracket attached to the block.
About the DIY, specifically the fuse block removal; I can say I didn't have to touch that box at all. Instead I managed maneuvering the ALT around and only had to move out of the way the plastic wiring harness portion on the front of the block above the ALT area.
Agree with the 3hr on the job. The rear alternator nut was a huge problem. If you get that undone and refastend fast after replacement, you can probably knock it out in less than two hours.
My alternator went out less than a week ago. I was quoted over $1,000 for parts and labor. NOPE!!! I have some experience working on vehicles, although mostly with pre 2000's models. This forum was VERY informative and helped me to save money while replacing my alternator over the weekend. Best resource I found online. Thanks for the info.
so i removed all the bolts needed and im ready to remove the alternator, my question to everyone is do you have to pry it out or does it come off easily? do you have to wiggle it with a lot of force for it to come out?
I would like to thank you soooo much for this tutorial! I cant believe i changed out my alternator of our myself!(with a mechanic behind my back)it wasnt as bad asi thought it would be. lol but still it wasnt that hard at all except for the bolt on the pulley. That was a pain! That last bolt behind the alternator wasn't too bad once you got to reach it. I did do something I don't think I was supposed to do and that was pulled out all the plugs out of the ECU instead of carefully putting it aside. 😩😩 now I'm now my engine light and VS you at light is on and sometimes I have a rough idle. Do you think I should check all my plugs and make sure that they are all the way in? Or should I get the code cleared? Regardless of the fact my car runs fine now and haven't had any more problems otherwise!! My friend needs his done so im gonna change his out for him but THIS TIME carefully put the ECU aside. Lol 🙄
Just Awesome! Your post to replace the alternator on the 2006 IS350 was spot on! I should have taken the time to look at the replys to see the updates! That's on me. Here's to many more years of driving excellence!
04-17-16, 08:33 PM
Best of luck to the next person and thank you CL community !!!
