lexus-is2

It's been over two years since my last brake fluid change on my 2006 IS250 (actually almost 3 years now). So my brake fluid change is overdue. I am contemplating doing the fluid change myself. I've watched quite a few how-to videos. Below I have written up what I think is the procedure. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? as this will be my first time changing brake fluid.

1. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap (brake master cylinder)
2. Using a turkey baster, siphon out the brake fluid from the reservoir
3. Fill new brake fluid into reservoir until the max line
4. Close reservoir cover to prevent dirt getting in
5. Go to each caliper and connect a hose to the drain plug, have the other end of a hose in a bottle submerged in fluid to prevent air getting in, then loosen drain plug bolt and pump brakes a few times until new fluid comes out clear and bubble free.
6. Top up fluid in reservoir between each caliper bleed process

That's all I can think of, I have a few questions:

1. Is this a correct way of doing it?
2. Is there any other place that brake fluid needs to be bled from?
3. When pumping the brakes to bleed each caliper, I'm assuming I will have to turn ignition on to be able to pump the brakes right? otherwise with car completely off, if I pump the brakes it will just go stiff.

Many thanks

azfsprt

iTrader: (4)

1. Assuming this is a 1 man job yes looks good.

2. No just those drains on calipers and reservoir with baster.

3. yes

whitecel

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to start the bleed from the farthest away from the master. Also, I don't think you need to turn the car to the on position. Just have your friend pump the breaks and hold it down as you open the valve and continue to hold until you close the valve.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Correct, and despite what you would think, the driver's side rear caliper is furthest from the master cylinder.

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

you get more brake power when the car is on. I remember me and a friend tried with the car on and off and the fluid flowed more with the car on

lexus-is2

I'm told that the ignition doesnt need to be on, and that apparently it wont go hard as long as bleed valve is open

valeoray

Kind of off topic a bit, but since we are talking about bleeding, I was wondering if the bleed valve should be open when compressing the caliper piston to avoid contamination in the ABS system. Thanks!

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

For Number 5- I always have a helper to pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while i open the bleeder valve. I feel better knowing that the fluid won't be sucked in as brake pedal is depressed.

Valeoray- Yes, it is a good practice to have the bleed valve opened when compressing the caliper back in.

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

yes that is what youre suppose to do, you only open the bleed valve when the brake system is pressurized from the pedal so you dont suck air into the lines

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

Yes, that is why i do it that way. However, i guess the OP way is acceptable if you don't have a second person to help. I guess the system will only suck in fluid by "have the other end of a hose in a bottle submerged in fluid to prevent air getting in, then loosen drain plug bolt and pump brakes a few times until new fluid comes out clear and bubble free."

lexus-is2

I'm thinking to buy a vaccum bleeder kit like the one pictured at the end of this post.

Has anyone used these kind of kits? If so, is the following method correct for using this tool to change brake fluid:


1. Vacuum out brake fluid from reservoir by creating a vacuum using the hand held pump, the fluid will drain into the container supplied with kit.
2. Fill new brake fluid using funnel.
3. Close reservoir lid
4. Starting from furthest away from reservoir, go to caliper and locate bleed plug.
5. Connect the vaccum kit with hose to the bleed plug
6. Let the kit vacuum out the air and old fluid.
7. Tighten bleed nut.
8. Topup reservoir before moving on to next caliper


My questions are:

1. Is that procedure correct for this type of system?
2. I guess pumping the pedal would no longer be needed?
3. Do I hand pump the kit before loosening the bleed bolt on the caliper to create pressure? or do I loosen bleed bolt then pump the hand-held pump?

Many thanks guys.

Heres the pic of the kit:

waiman3

good info, thanks.

whitecel

iTrader: (1)

You could use that. I myself use a mityvac 8000 to do my motorcycle. The only thing with those is that after I use it, I still do it manually a couple of times to make sure.

With the vacuum pump, there is less to no need for a second person. To use it, after you slip on the correct size tubing, you hand pump the vacuum up to around 25 mmhg and open the valve. Watch the gauge and when it falls below say for example 15 mmhg, close the valve and pump up the presueure back to 25 mmhg and repeat.

There are pros and cons to using a hand vac pump. My biggest headache was finding the correct size tubing. Even though the tube fit, there was a slight vacuum leak that caused the pressure to continually drop.

kumquatism

iTrader: (10)

You can also try a product like Earl's Solo bleeders. It will keep air from getting into the brake lines when you bleed, so you can just pump the brakes without worrying about introducing air to your lines. You don't have to close the bleed line after every time you pump in. I've never tried the product, but it comes highly recommended by a lot of my mechanic friends.