My '06 2IS NAV unit issues...NOT touchscreen related!
10-28-16, 12:48 PM
#47
Driver School Candidate
Nav issues unrelated to Digitizer/Screen
Hi, I just wanted to chime in here as I recently acquired a 2008 IS350 that had about 88K miles at the time of purchase (approximately a little over a month ago). Within about two weeks of purchasing the car, I experienced the same issues as described by Gville350. The navigation screen would fizzle out and I could no longer control my climate. I tried disconnecting the battery which worked once, but all subsequent times the climate controls would be inaccessible due to the blank screen. None of the buttons surrounding the Nav screen would work.
I followed the DIY steps to replace the digitizer last Saturday. That did not work. However, the screen did come on on its own about a day and a half later, and so long as I left the climate controls on Auto before powering the car off, it would work when I turned it on. That said, it's hard to say how reliable it would be. I then obtained a used Nav unit on eBay that was available locally—it had a broken screen/digitizer—for $400 (made a low offer), and received the unit a few days ago. With the help of a friend, I tried switching out just the logic board behind the screen/digitizer last night. No cigar.
Today, we tried replacing simply the front face unit which has buttons to Map, Audio, Climate, etc. That also didn't work. As a last ditch effort, I swapped the "brains" behind the acquired digitizer to the original unit, and then used the eBay acquired front face unit and it worked!! So if you're having the issues described by Gville350 and not the unresponsive touchscreen, I would definitely focus obtaining a working board for one of those components. That said, the new digitizer definitely was much sharper than the older one.
I also had been quoted about $8-9K for the Nav unit by the dealership (car was purchased for $15.7K or so)—absolutely ridiculous. I believe my problem was related to a short somewhere on one of the PC boards (either behind the digitizer or the one connected/behind the front face unit).
I followed the DIY steps to replace the digitizer last Saturday. That did not work. However, the screen did come on on its own about a day and a half later, and so long as I left the climate controls on Auto before powering the car off, it would work when I turned it on. That said, it's hard to say how reliable it would be. I then obtained a used Nav unit on eBay that was available locally—it had a broken screen/digitizer—for $400 (made a low offer), and received the unit a few days ago. With the help of a friend, I tried switching out just the logic board behind the screen/digitizer last night. No cigar.
Today, we tried replacing simply the front face unit which has buttons to Map, Audio, Climate, etc. That also didn't work. As a last ditch effort, I swapped the "brains" behind the acquired digitizer to the original unit, and then used the eBay acquired front face unit and it worked!! So if you're having the issues described by Gville350 and not the unresponsive touchscreen, I would definitely focus obtaining a working board for one of those components. That said, the new digitizer definitely was much sharper than the older one.
I also had been quoted about $8-9K for the Nav unit by the dealership (car was purchased for $15.7K or so)—absolutely ridiculous. I believe my problem was related to a short somewhere on one of the PC boards (either behind the digitizer or the one connected/behind the front face unit).
10-31-16, 02:16 PM
#48
I pulled the main board today and brought it into work for inspection and X-ray. neither visual inspection nor X-ray could find any defects. My X-ray machine cannot detect cracked solder joints, so it's possible the fault is a cracked joint under the BGA device. I'm having this device re-soldered and I'll try to plug it back in tonight. fingers crossed
10-31-16, 02:25 PM
#49
Driver School Candidate
I must have jinxed myself because not even two days later, my screen started fitzing out again, exactly as before... If someone is able to successfully do the soldering/reball of the BGA, could you please PM me or post on here what you did?
11-01-16, 12:39 PM
#50
I pulled the main board today and brought it into work for inspection and X-ray. neither visual inspection nor X-ray could find any defects. My X-ray machine cannot detect cracked solder joints, so it's possible the fault is a cracked joint under the BGA device. I'm having this device re-soldered and I'll try to plug it back in tonight. fingers crossed
Good luck!
11-02-16, 11:28 AM
#51
Driver School Candidate
Can anyone confirm whether the BGA or CPU is identified on the circuit board as V2G? I'm going to try this re-soldering fix if I can get this part substantiated... Thanks!
11-08-16, 11:18 AM
#52
Driver School Candidate
I figured out which pcboard needs to be reballed. It's the unit behind the denso warranty sticker, with a heatsink attached to it. I tried reapplying thermal paste to the heatsink, but no go. I also tried what another user had recommended on a different thread of heating the board with a heat gun to re-bond the components to the board. That was also unsuccessful. I did find a shop locally that could reball the BGA, but quoted me anywhere from $100-$180. The board can be bought from China for about $330 including shipping. At this point my navigation will flash on and off intermittently. At least I've been able to adjust my climate controls. I'm still mulling over whether to try and have the board repaired or just to buy the new one. I may just wait and see what success others have from ordering the board from China.
11-08-16, 02:33 PM
#54
Driver School Candidate
Here's a picture of the board from a seller in China. I took that piece off, cleaned it, and applied thermal paste. But apparently, for EE/Circuit board pros, this is the part that needs to be "reballed." I spoke to another user who did something similar without success. Unsure if he actually reballed it (believe it requires a specialized machine to perform this task).
11-08-16, 03:13 PM
#55
OK, I also attempted to reflow the BGA part under the heat sink. The unit worked for about 5 minutes, during which I took the opportunity to turn back on my AC and blower fan. So the good news I suppose is that this little adventure proved it is that device on that board which is defective. The bad news is that my success was short lived.
11-08-16, 10:21 PM
#56
Heating up the BGA will not resolve your problem for good cause the soldering they are using. Basically, you would need to remove the BGA completely and re-ball the BGA before mounting it back to the PCB. Of course right heat and right solder paste is needed. Also, If you are just trying to heat it up to temp fixed, You would need to cover the surrounding area with aluminum foil so heat doesn't burn components around it. You would need to apply the heat on top and bottom as the same time as well.
11-09-16, 02:07 PM
#58
Driver School Candidate
