12-12-14, 04:32 PM
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Almost DIED tonight thanks Ichiba V2 Spacers
11-08-11, 09:52 AM
#61
Out of Warranty
Agreed. It appears from the failure mode in the photos that the studs were poorly heat-treated. They may actually be too hard for the application, a problem exacerbated by poor threading. Look at the threads of the stud carefully. If the thread has a sharp "V" at the root rather than a slight rounding, that "notch" can create a stress-raiser that will focus loads at that point, eventually cracking the stud. If it is too hard, this can happen rather quickly. Mission critical fasteners are no place to trust second-rate products.
11-08-11, 10:49 AM
#62
Agreed. Just for kicks, take a look at this chart
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html
11-08-11, 02:47 PM
#64
@ jeff lange I torqued to 76 ft/lbs, even if the studs were torqued to 80ft/lbs the bolts shouldn't snap like that. Im no mechanic but I know how to use a torque wrench.
@bamais like I said I used the hubcentric rings with the spacers. I'll like to see what kind of statement you would make if you were driving 75 mph on the highway and three studs broke off. There is a reason why the studs broke off the SPACERS and not the front wheels where there are NO spacers.
It can very well be my fault in terms of what happen but seriously installation of Ichiba V2 is a not very hard, I really doubt I over torqued it, I'm am pretty paranoid and **** when it comes to doing things.
I just wanted to share an event in my life with the forum and maybe save a member the hassle of going through the same thing.
@bamais like I said I used the hubcentric rings with the spacers. I'll like to see what kind of statement you would make if you were driving 75 mph on the highway and three studs broke off. There is a reason why the studs broke off the SPACERS and not the front wheels where there are NO spacers.
It can very well be my fault in terms of what happen but seriously installation of Ichiba V2 is a not very hard, I really doubt I over torqued it, I'm am pretty paranoid and **** when it comes to doing things.
I just wanted to share an event in my life with the forum and maybe save a member the hassle of going through the same thing.
@jeff
just to be even more thorough here is a better pic with the center part, I DIDN'T include the plastic hubcentric rings in the picture because it is currently being used for my rims. I'm not that ditzy to not use hubcentric rings for aftermarket rims.
Attachment 227574
just to be even more thorough here is a better pic with the center part, I DIDN'T include the plastic hubcentric rings in the picture because it is currently being used for my rims. I'm not that ditzy to not use hubcentric rings for aftermarket rims.
Attachment 227574
To know that you have your wheels on right you can, before installing the center cap, twirl the hubcentric ring around with your finger. If you can twirl it around in a 360degree way then your wheel is on correctly/perfectly. If you can't then one stud engagement has more "wheel" threaded onto it then the other studs... Is my understanding wrong?
11-08-11, 06:30 PM
#67
It was my understanding that hubcentric rings (which I always run) never assist in any way the weight of the wheel. In fact, my understanding is that they only assist in telling you that you have centered your wheel perfectly on the studs (via a star pattern during the install).
To know that you have your wheels on right you can, before installing the center cap, twirl the hubcentric ring around with your finger. If you can twirl it around in a 360degree way then your wheel is on correctly/perfectly. If you can't then one stud engagement has more "wheel" threaded onto it then the other studs... Is my understanding wrong?
To know that you have your wheels on right you can, before installing the center cap, twirl the hubcentric ring around with your finger. If you can twirl it around in a 360degree way then your wheel is on correctly/perfectly. If you can't then one stud engagement has more "wheel" threaded onto it then the other studs... Is my understanding wrong?
11-09-11, 09:07 AM
#72
Now imagine he was taking a high speed turn pushing high G's what would have happened then? It's obvious that they have mixed quality, not to mention low tolerances.
If you want high quality craftsmanship buy American made, German made or Japanese made Spacers with ARP Extended studs. That will guarantee that you will not have complete failure.
Another thing, hub rings are key to the right weight distribution, I'm not talking about cheap plastic rings that fit loose. That's junk. I'm talking about forged anodized aluminum billet, precise fit hub rings to allow the vehicles hub bore to bare all the weight.
11-09-11, 10:57 AM
#73
Pole Position
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I was considering picking up some spacers. After reading through this thread though I think i'm going to stay away. Play it safe even if these were just defective, who knows wheels are too critical for me to play around with them.
11-09-11, 11:56 AM
#74
Another thing to bring up, wheel studs on these vehicles were not meant to bare all the corner weight on them, if so they would have had higher ft lbs for torque specs. Not a measly 76ft lbs. So take that into consideration when you put all the corner weight on low budget studs with no proper support from the hub bore due to cheap hub rings. You're asking for trouble.
Someone's misfortune with low budget Spacers shouldn't steer you away from Spacers all together. It's the same thing as replica wheels, they're just not as strong as the real deal. You basically get what you pay for.
A lot of high end sports cars use Spacers with absolutely no problem. The key is getting the right spacer and right studs for the job. You can get some H&R Spacers (studless) with ARP extended studs and I guarantee you won't have a problem.
A lot of high end sports cars use Spacers with absolutely no problem. The key is getting the right spacer and right studs for the job. You can get some H&R Spacers (studless) with ARP extended studs and I guarantee you won't have a problem.
Last edited by XhyDra; 11-09-11 at 12:01 PM.
11-09-11, 01:17 PM
#75
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Another thing to bring up, wheel studs on these vehicles were not meant to bare all the corner weight on them, if so they would have had higher ft lbs for torque specs. Not a measly 76ft lbs. So take that into consideration when you put all the corner weight on low budget studs with no proper support from the hub bore due to cheap hub rings. You're asking for trouble.
Someone's misfortune with low budget Spacers shouldn't steer you away from Spacers all together. It's the same thing as replica wheels, they're just not as strong as the real deal. You basically get what you pay for.
A lot of high end sports cars use Spacers with absolutely no problem. The key is getting the right spacer and right studs for the job. You can get some H&R Spacers (studless) with ARP extended studs and I guarantee you won't have a problem.
Someone's misfortune with low budget Spacers shouldn't steer you away from Spacers all together. It's the same thing as replica wheels, they're just not as strong as the real deal. You basically get what you pay for.
A lot of high end sports cars use Spacers with absolutely no problem. The key is getting the right spacer and right studs for the job. You can get some H&R Spacers (studless) with ARP extended studs and I guarantee you won't have a problem.