2006 IS350: Won't start or even attempt to crank when hot unless jumped
09-06-19, 06:07 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
2006 IS350: Won't start or even attempt to crank when hot unless jumped
I have 2006 lexus is350 it starts up everytime after its been sitting like a champ without fail but after i drive it for about 30 minutes or more car wont start or even try and crank over just a slight buzzing noise. But if i jump it itll start right up or if i let it sit for a hr or more. When it fails to even try turning over all the lights and everything work just wont even try to turn over just kind of buzzing noise. Ive replqced the battery and the starter anf ive went thru all the fuses and relays and even put in another starter relay from a friends car and same problem please help.
09-08-19, 10:55 AM
#2
I have 2006 lexus is350 it starts up everytime after its been sitting like a champ without fail but after i drive it for about 30 minutes or more car wont start or even try and crank over just a slight buzzing noise. But if i jump it itll start right up or if i let it sit for a hr or more. When it fails to even try turning over all the lights and everything work just wont even try to turn over just kind of buzzing noise. Ive replqced the battery and the starter anf ive went thru all the fuses and relays and even put in another starter relay from a friends car and same problem please help.
There was recently a thread exactly like this.
Do nothing else but this; take one side of your jumper cable and attach it to the engine block. Take the other end and attach it to the battery negative post. When hot, does it start?
If yes, your ground cable is bad. Likely at the terminal to the battery.
Look for my posts on this topic. Good info.
09-08-19, 08:16 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
There was recently a thread exactly like this.
Do nothing else but this; take one side of your jumper cable and attach it to the engine block. Take the other end and attach it to the battery negative post. When hot, does it start?
If yes, your ground cable is bad. Likely at the terminal to the battery.
Look for my posts on this topic. Good info.
Do nothing else but this; take one side of your jumper cable and attach it to the engine block. Take the other end and attach it to the battery negative post. When hot, does it start?
If yes, your ground cable is bad. Likely at the terminal to the battery.
Look for my posts on this topic. Good info.
So on the car im using to jump the lexus hook up the cables to the battery normal hot hot ground ground? And on the lexus hook up the ground to battery ground and positive to the block? That wont mess up the car im using to jump the lexus? And jumping the car it normally starts up anyway but i guess thats not a normal jump???? And if that is the problem how exactly do i fix it can i just make another ground from battery to the frame? And can you please post a link to your post.
09-10-19, 04:53 PM
#4
Attach the negative cable to the negative on the battery. The other side of the cable negative clamp on the metal part of engine. Then try to start. That will tell you if you have a bad ground. If your battery is fully charged.
11-20-19, 03:14 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
I tried connecting cables from block to battery no luck
I put a new ground that i know is good redid all the terminal wires and terminals and i know there good idk what to do next please help
11-20-19, 03:29 PM
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Also i replaced the battery and tried other batterys no luck
11-21-19, 06:30 AM
#7
You need more information. Get a test lamp and a volt meter.
Locate the starter relay solenoid wire and measure the voltage to it when attempting to start. Now measure it when it fails to crank.
This single peice of information tells you it is:
A) the starter/starter solenoid.
B) something in the car that is impairing it from starting.
Other tests would be made like doing a ohms of resistance test from ground to that same wire when everything is off. You could do this at the relay in the fuse panel with the relay removed. If the resistance is high you have an open between the solenoid and your relay. OR the new starter solenoid is BAD.
Of course other tests involve bypassing the starter relay to eliminate anything upstream. FWIW 90% of the time when you hear a buzz but no crank its bad connection limiting current flow from the battery to the starter. The other 10% is a bad starter.
You have to be able to prove what works reliably and what does not to solve this.
Locate the starter relay solenoid wire and measure the voltage to it when attempting to start. Now measure it when it fails to crank.
This single peice of information tells you it is:
A) the starter/starter solenoid.
B) something in the car that is impairing it from starting.
Other tests would be made like doing a ohms of resistance test from ground to that same wire when everything is off. You could do this at the relay in the fuse panel with the relay removed. If the resistance is high you have an open between the solenoid and your relay. OR the new starter solenoid is BAD.
Of course other tests involve bypassing the starter relay to eliminate anything upstream. FWIW 90% of the time when you hear a buzz but no crank its bad connection limiting current flow from the battery to the starter. The other 10% is a bad starter.
You have to be able to prove what works reliably and what does not to solve this.
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11-23-19, 05:39 PM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
i replaced the starter a few months ago... If the battery i had in it was to small like only 350 CCA and the recommended is like 6 or 700 would i see these same problems??? And thank you very much i do have a multi meter and a test light and will try to do this asap.
11-27-19, 05:20 PM
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
So i replaced the battery and its good fully charged 12.6v
so it always starts cold and when i shut it off it will always turn back on if i do it quick. But if i wait any amount of time then it wont crank over but i do here the power going to.the solenoid and here it buzzing. But it wont start again untill i let it cool unless i jump it. Even if i switxh out batteries during this time it will not.start. i tested the ground to block.and chassie and its good. Can. You explain to.me exactly how.to do.these test and what im lookong for in my reading on my multi meter plz
so it always starts cold and when i shut it off it will always turn back on if i do it quick. But if i wait any amount of time then it wont crank over but i do here the power going to.the solenoid and here it buzzing. But it wont start again untill i let it cool unless i jump it. Even if i switxh out batteries during this time it will not.start. i tested the ground to block.and chassie and its good. Can. You explain to.me exactly how.to do.these test and what im lookong for in my reading on my multi meter plz
11-27-19, 05:24 PM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
You need more information. Get a test lamp and a volt meter.
Locate the starter relay solenoid wire and measure the voltage to it when attempting to start. Now measure it when it fails to crank.
This single peice of information tells you it is:
A) the starter/starter solenoid.
B) something in the car that is impairing it from starting.
Other tests would be made like doing a ohms of resistance test from ground to that same wire when everything is off. You could do this at the relay in the fuse panel with the relay removed. If the resistance is high you have an open between the solenoid and your relay. OR the new starter solenoid is BAD.
Of course other tests involve bypassing the starter relay to eliminate anything upstream. FWIW 90% of the time when you hear a buzz but no crank its bad connection limiting current flow from the battery to the starter. The other 10% is a bad starter.
You have to be able to prove what works reliably and what does not to solve this.
Locate the starter relay solenoid wire and measure the voltage to it when attempting to start. Now measure it when it fails to crank.
This single peice of information tells you it is:
A) the starter/starter solenoid.
B) something in the car that is impairing it from starting.
Other tests would be made like doing a ohms of resistance test from ground to that same wire when everything is off. You could do this at the relay in the fuse panel with the relay removed. If the resistance is high you have an open between the solenoid and your relay. OR the new starter solenoid is BAD.
Of course other tests involve bypassing the starter relay to eliminate anything upstream. FWIW 90% of the time when you hear a buzz but no crank its bad connection limiting current flow from the battery to the starter. The other 10% is a bad starter.
You have to be able to prove what works reliably and what does not to solve this.
11-27-19, 06:14 PM
#15
You need a volt meter. Test what the voltage at the starter when cranking cold.
when the car is hot and won’t start do the same , test voltage at the starter wire.
mid voltage is the same sounds like a starter. If it differs different issue.
when the car is hot and won’t start do the same , test voltage at the starter wire.
mid voltage is the same sounds like a starter. If it differs different issue.