Pics of my '06 IS250 with 2011MY headlights w/ LED Strip
08-03-17, 10:59 PM
#661
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Hello I know this Post is pretty old I also have an '06 IS250 of course swell parts doesn't exist anymore . If I were to purchase these exact headlights I know I plug them into the harness but you say it isn't plug and play . Where do I go from that point
08-17-19, 12:27 PM
#662
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Hi, i got the oem 2011-13 headlights with afs for my 08 250. Where can i get a hold
So I finally finished installing the 2011 headlights on my '06 IS250 with factory halogen. I've had them installed for about a month now, but was waiting on the part to connect the LED strip to the rest of the harness which my dealership finally got this weekend after weeks on backorder.
I purchased both headlights used via eBay along with new D4S bulbs, a ballast (one of the headlights came with a ballast), and new covers since the 2 sellers I purchased the headlights from didn't include any covers. Total cost = $1200. I'm hoping to sell my old headlights for a couple hundred on eBay, so that should bring the total cost down.
If anyone is wondering, it was obviously not plug n play at first. I had to splice and relocate wires on the harness connector to get the LED strip to work. Also, the reason the high beams aren't functioning as DRLs is because I had my dealership disable them.
Sorry for the closeup pics. I took the pics using my iPhone so when I backed up anymore than I did all the camera would show is a ball of light on each side. Also, the LED strip is not as yellow as the pic makes it seem. It's actually white with a very slight bluish hue.
EDIT: Don't let the photo deceive you. These are actually the LEDs at 50% brightness. They didn't look nearly as bright as the iPhone camera made it seem.
Attachment 434521
These are also the LEDs at 50% brightness, taken less than a minute after the first pic. You can clearly see what light does to the iPhone's crappy camera.
Attachment 434522
This is a few weeks afterwards once I figured out how to get the LEDs up to 100% brightness. The passenger headlight at 50% brightness, the driver headlight at 100% brightness (they're now both wired for 100% brightness BTW).
Attachment 434523
FYI - I explain the correct wiring on page 7 of this thread.
I purchased both headlights used via eBay along with new D4S bulbs, a ballast (one of the headlights came with a ballast), and new covers since the 2 sellers I purchased the headlights from didn't include any covers. Total cost = $1200. I'm hoping to sell my old headlights for a couple hundred on eBay, so that should bring the total cost down.
If anyone is wondering, it was obviously not plug n play at first. I had to splice and relocate wires on the harness connector to get the LED strip to work. Also, the reason the high beams aren't functioning as DRLs is because I had my dealership disable them.
Sorry for the closeup pics. I took the pics using my iPhone so when I backed up anymore than I did all the camera would show is a ball of light on each side. Also, the LED strip is not as yellow as the pic makes it seem. It's actually white with a very slight bluish hue.
EDIT: Don't let the photo deceive you. These are actually the LEDs at 50% brightness. They didn't look nearly as bright as the iPhone camera made it seem.
Attachment 434521
These are also the LEDs at 50% brightness, taken less than a minute after the first pic. You can clearly see what light does to the iPhone's crappy camera.
Attachment 434522
This is a few weeks afterwards once I figured out how to get the LEDs up to 100% brightness. The passenger headlight at 50% brightness, the driver headlight at 100% brightness (they're now both wired for 100% brightness BTW).
Attachment 434523
FYI - I explain the correct wiring on page 7 of this thread.
10-18-19, 06:36 PM
#663
Tried following the instructions and couldn’t get the led strip to light up. Found another method of doing it though.
On the main connector coming out of the headlight, if you look closely enough you’ll see numbers along where the pins go in. The one on the upper left hand side (green wire with yellow stripe) there’s a 9. The white with black stripe wire right below it is number 8. Going further down pin #6 is the positive connector for the side marker and #5 is the negative connection. The wires for the led strip are in pins # 24 (green) which positive & 100% brightness, pin #23 (red) which is negative, and pin #22 (black) which is positive & 50% brightness. Remove pin 24 and move to pin slot 7 and move pin 23 to pin slot 1. Sewell repinned them in this manner. This way your led strip turns on whenever your side markers are lit. There are set at 100% brightness. If you want to get it to come down to 50% from the stalk, you’ll need to follow the instructions on using a relay. For me thats not all that familiar with electronics that’s too much trouble to set up.
On the main connector coming out of the headlight, if you look closely enough you’ll see numbers along where the pins go in. The one on the upper left hand side (green wire with yellow stripe) there’s a 9. The white with black stripe wire right below it is number 8. Going further down pin #6 is the positive connector for the side marker and #5 is the negative connection. The wires for the led strip are in pins # 24 (green) which positive & 100% brightness, pin #23 (red) which is negative, and pin #22 (black) which is positive & 50% brightness. Remove pin 24 and move to pin slot 7 and move pin 23 to pin slot 1. Sewell repinned them in this manner. This way your led strip turns on whenever your side markers are lit. There are set at 100% brightness. If you want to get it to come down to 50% from the stalk, you’ll need to follow the instructions on using a relay. For me thats not all that familiar with electronics that’s too much trouble to set up.
Last edited by eframsal; 10-19-19 at 09:13 AM.
04-08-20, 01:20 PM
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I know that this thread is pretty old, but I have a question related to led strips and I thought that some of you may help with a suggestion. So, I want to change the LED headlight and a friend recommended buying led strip. So, I ordered it, but I didn't manage to install these LED lights and I was wondering if you know someone that is really good at installation and could give me some tips and indications. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Divinity20; 04-13-20 at 08:29 AM.
08-30-21, 05:25 PM
#665
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Apologies to revive an old thread, but thought itd be better than starting a new one.
Just wondering if anyone ever ended up trying the suggestion from @jgarrido per the above, to trick the AFS system? It seems he was confident in the idea but was awaiting @Jeff Lange 's thoughts on it.
Id imagine youd need 2x spare pins to pin into the 2011+ headlight plug, which would connect to a resistor, however before committing that far with pinning harnesses etc, I was wondering if anyone ever tried with the headlight completely removed (which id imagine would also trigger the AFS Off light), and just tried wedging a 1/4w 10k resistor into those 2 pin locations, on the car's side of the headlight harness, just to see if the light went away.
I ordered some lights coming from overseas, so itll be a few weeks off before I can run a test, but if anyone else has the means to try in the interim or has tried, would love to know the results. If it works, itd be way easier to pin in a resistor at the headlight side whilst its all apart there, rather than having to also pull the dash cluster apart as well.
Thanks for any input or insight.
Last edited by Is84f; 08-30-21 at 05:33 PM.
03-24-22, 09:37 AM
#666
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Sorry for taking space in this thread to talk about this constantly it seems, but it seems like the best place for it. I hope someone uses some of my work and enjoys it!
So, while searching for a place to get ignition power in the engine bay, I had one final realization about how easy it actually is to have a power source while the engine is running. If you use the power source off of Pin 8 from the integration relay (circuit opening relay switched +12V), you can get one step closer to correct:
Verbose functionality listing with this wiring:
Engine Off, Headlight Switch Off: All Off
Engine Off, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 50%, Markers On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks: All Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch Off: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 100%, Markers On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Daylight: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Planning on using 90987-04004 5-pin Toyota/Lexus micro-relays and either two 1N5817 diodes, or a single MBR2545CT rectifying diode.
Jeff
So, while searching for a place to get ignition power in the engine bay, I had one final realization about how easy it actually is to have a power source while the engine is running. If you use the power source off of Pin 8 from the integration relay (circuit opening relay switched +12V), you can get one step closer to correct:
Verbose functionality listing with this wiring:
Engine Off, Headlight Switch Off: All Off
Engine Off, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 50%, Markers On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks: All Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch Off: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 100%, Markers On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Daylight: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Planning on using 90987-04004 5-pin Toyota/Lexus micro-relays and either two 1N5817 diodes, or a single MBR2545CT rectifying diode.
Jeff
04-18-22, 05:19 AM
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My apologies for the confusion. My goal with the suggestion was only to stop the blinking AFS light. As the AFS ECU controls both the AFS and auto-leveling, it of course will disable both when you unplug it. I wasn't sure if auto-leveling was still functioning on cars with the blinking AFS light or not. If it is still working, unplugging the AFS ECU will also disable the auto-leveling.
I had hoped that the 2011+ leveling ECU had the same connectors as the 06-10 AFS ECU, but it doesn't. Really, you have 4 choices:
1. Live with the blinking light.
2. Disable the blinking light using black tape.
3. Unplug the AFS ECU, disabling both the blinking light and auto-leveling.
4. Obtain a 2011-12 leveling ECU and replace your AFS ECU with it. This isn't a simple swap as the connectors are different and a couple of wiring changes exist. The AFS ECU had a BEAN interface to the body ECU, while the Leveling ECU does not. The only thing this seems to really affect if you did this swap is that for some reason the 2011+ ECU gets an alternator signal (CHG-) from the body ECU, it only operates the leveling system when the engine is running, but that would need to be tapped in from somewhere else. It also expects a low beam signal from the body ECU for when the low beams are on (B2).
As far as I can tell, these are the parts you'd need to do option 4:
One ECU:
89960-53040 - ISx50 RWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53050 - ISx50 AWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53080 - IS F Leveling ECU
89960-53100 - ISx50C Leveling ECU
And:
90980-12422 - Leveling ECU Connector
82998-24290 - Leveling ECU Connector Terminals (Qty: 15)
On your new connector (90980-12422) you will do the following:
Pin 1: Ground, Take Pin 1 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 5: Speed SPDL, Take Pin 6 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 6: Speed SPDR, Take Pin 7 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 7: Low Beam Trigger, Using one of your new terminals, splice this into the red/white wire coming out of Pin 2 on 22-pin junction connector A33 (RH kick panel)
Pin 8: Alternator Charge Trigger, this should be +12V when the engine is running, 0V when the engine is off, ignition switch on. Not sure on a closer place to tap into, but you'll use one of your new terminals and tap into a wire with these characteristics. The easiest spot I can think of is the black/white wire going to the fuel pump resistor on the RH fender apron in the engine bay. (Alternatively, you could just tap this into Pin 1, and let it perform leveling even without the engine running).
Pin 9: RH Motor LR2-, Take Pin 16 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 10: RH Motor LR2+, Take Pin 15 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 11: RH Motor LR1-, Take Pin 14 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 12: RH Motor LR1+, Take Pin 13 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 14: +12V Power, Take Pin 2 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 16: Front Sensor SGF, Take Pin 17 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 17: Rear Sensor SGR, Take Pin 11 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 18: Front Sensor SHFL, Take Pin 2 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 19: Rear Sensor SHRL, Take Pin 9 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 20: Front Sensor SBF, Take Pin 1 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 21: Rear Sensor SBR, Take Pin 10 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 28: LH Motor LL2-, Take Pin 32 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 29: LH Motor LL2+, Take Pin 31 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 30: LH Motor LL1-, Take Pin 30 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 31:LH Motor LL1+, Take Pin 29 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
I had hoped that the 2011+ leveling ECU had the same connectors as the 06-10 AFS ECU, but it doesn't. Really, you have 4 choices:
1. Live with the blinking light.
2. Disable the blinking light using black tape.
3. Unplug the AFS ECU, disabling both the blinking light and auto-leveling.
4. Obtain a 2011-12 leveling ECU and replace your AFS ECU with it. This isn't a simple swap as the connectors are different and a couple of wiring changes exist. The AFS ECU had a BEAN interface to the body ECU, while the Leveling ECU does not. The only thing this seems to really affect if you did this swap is that for some reason the 2011+ ECU gets an alternator signal (CHG-) from the body ECU, it only operates the leveling system when the engine is running, but that would need to be tapped in from somewhere else. It also expects a low beam signal from the body ECU for when the low beams are on (B2).
As far as I can tell, these are the parts you'd need to do option 4:
One ECU:
89960-53040 - ISx50 RWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53050 - ISx50 AWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53080 - IS F Leveling ECU
89960-53100 - ISx50C Leveling ECU
And:
90980-12422 - Leveling ECU Connector
82998-24290 - Leveling ECU Connector Terminals (Qty: 15)
On your new connector (90980-12422) you will do the following:
Pin 1: Ground, Take Pin 1 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 5: Speed SPDL, Take Pin 6 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 6: Speed SPDR, Take Pin 7 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 7: Low Beam Trigger, Using one of your new terminals, splice this into the red/white wire coming out of Pin 2 on 22-pin junction connector A33 (RH kick panel)
Pin 8: Alternator Charge Trigger, this should be +12V when the engine is running, 0V when the engine is off, ignition switch on. Not sure on a closer place to tap into, but you'll use one of your new terminals and tap into a wire with these characteristics. The easiest spot I can think of is the black/white wire going to the fuel pump resistor on the RH fender apron in the engine bay. (Alternatively, you could just tap this into Pin 1, and let it perform leveling even without the engine running).
Pin 9: RH Motor LR2-, Take Pin 16 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 10: RH Motor LR2+, Take Pin 15 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 11: RH Motor LR1-, Take Pin 14 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 12: RH Motor LR1+, Take Pin 13 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 14: +12V Power, Take Pin 2 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 16: Front Sensor SGF, Take Pin 17 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 17: Rear Sensor SGR, Take Pin 11 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 18: Front Sensor SHFL, Take Pin 2 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 19: Rear Sensor SHRL, Take Pin 9 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 20: Front Sensor SBF, Take Pin 1 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 21: Rear Sensor SBR, Take Pin 10 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 28: LH Motor LL2-, Take Pin 32 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 29: LH Motor LL2+, Take Pin 31 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 30: LH Motor LL1-, Take Pin 30 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 31:LH Motor LL1+, Take Pin 29 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
I can confirm this works! Even on the older models (mine is a 2008). I did not need to change any of the body ecu´s either. No more ghetto fix for me
I also added these 3 connectoions like they are shown on the original EWD.These wires need to added as they are missing on the older AFS ecu plugs!
PIN 8 "CHG" -> BODY ECU (Cowl Side J/B LH) -> PIN 13 (A30) plug
PIN 26 "WNG" -> BODY ECU (Cowl Side J/B LH) -> PIN 14 (A30) plug
PIN 7 "B2" -> Junction Connector (RH side) -> PIN 10 (A33) plug
Everything works as should! It levels the lights when the motor is started. Thanks Jeff for the inspiration to try this
06-15-22, 12:23 PM
#669
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2011 lexus is250 led Drl not working on passenger side
So I finally finished installing the 2011 headlights on my '06 IS250 with factory halogen. I've had them installed for about a month now, but was waiting on the part to connect the LED strip to the rest of the harness which my dealership finally got this weekend after weeks on backorder.
I purchased both headlights used via eBay along with new D4S bulbs, a ballast (one of the headlights came with a ballast), and new covers since the 2 sellers I purchased the headlights from didn't include any covers. Total cost = $1200. I'm hoping to sell my old headlights for a couple hundred on eBay, so that should bring the total cost down.
If anyone is wondering, it was obviously not plug n play at first. I had to splice and relocate wires on the harness connector to get the LED strip to work. Also, the reason the high beams aren't functioning as DRLs is because I had my dealership disable them.
Sorry for the closeup pics. I took the pics using my iPhone so when I backed up anymore than I did all the camera would show is a ball of light on each side. Also, the LED strip is not as yellow as the pic makes it seem. It's actually white with a very slight bluish hue.
EDIT: Don't let the photo deceive you. These are actually the LEDs at 50% brightness. They didn't look nearly as bright as the iPhone camera made it seem.
Attachment 434521
These are also the LEDs at 50% brightness, taken less than a minute after the first pic. You can clearly see what light does to the iPhone's crappy camera.
Attachment 434522
This is a few weeks afterwards once I figured out how to get the LEDs up to 100% brightness. The passenger headlight at 50% brightness, the driver headlight at 100% brightness (they're now both wired for 100% brightness BTW).
Attachment 434523
FYI - I explain the correct wiring on page 7 of this thread.
I purchased both headlights used via eBay along with new D4S bulbs, a ballast (one of the headlights came with a ballast), and new covers since the 2 sellers I purchased the headlights from didn't include any covers. Total cost = $1200. I'm hoping to sell my old headlights for a couple hundred on eBay, so that should bring the total cost down.
If anyone is wondering, it was obviously not plug n play at first. I had to splice and relocate wires on the harness connector to get the LED strip to work. Also, the reason the high beams aren't functioning as DRLs is because I had my dealership disable them.
Sorry for the closeup pics. I took the pics using my iPhone so when I backed up anymore than I did all the camera would show is a ball of light on each side. Also, the LED strip is not as yellow as the pic makes it seem. It's actually white with a very slight bluish hue.
EDIT: Don't let the photo deceive you. These are actually the LEDs at 50% brightness. They didn't look nearly as bright as the iPhone camera made it seem.
Attachment 434521
These are also the LEDs at 50% brightness, taken less than a minute after the first pic. You can clearly see what light does to the iPhone's crappy camera.
Attachment 434522
This is a few weeks afterwards once I figured out how to get the LEDs up to 100% brightness. The passenger headlight at 50% brightness, the driver headlight at 100% brightness (they're now both wired for 100% brightness BTW).
Attachment 434523
FYI - I explain the correct wiring on page 7 of this thread.
I have a lexus is250 2011 it comes with factory led Drl... My driver side one is working but the passenger side one does not switch on.... Any ideas what it could be???
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jtrinh
IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present)
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11-06-16 09:06 PM
