chi123

iTrader: (12)

Yesterday, I tried to paint my calipers yellow and Plasti-Dip my wheels until I buy a set of Linea Corsa LC818s. I tried to remove the lug nuts with the wrench that came with the car and that didn't work. I tried using a 18" breaker bar and a 24" extended lug wrench and none of them will come off. Just out of curiosity, I tried using a beam type torque wrench to brake them loose. I know I'm not suppose to do this but I don't use the thing anymore. It reached 100 ft/lbs and still wouldn't break loose. I quit there since my car keeps rocking back and forth from breaking the lugs loose.

Any ideas how I can remove my lugs? I could complain to my dealer and they'll probably remove them since they changed and bled the brakes before they sold to me. Last time, the oil filter was too tight and they removed it for free. I just don't want to drive 40 miles back and forth.

Now about the wheels. I want to get these. They are 19x8.5 front and 19x10 rear. The tire sizes I want to get are 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 but why do people get 35 in the front and 30 in the rear? Can I just get 235/30/19 for the front instead? And with the hub size, what do I do if they are different?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

In short of an impact gun, maybe you can slip a longer pipe on the breaker bar? I normally don't recommend this because you can break the bar and cause havok, but if it's your only choice and you don't want to drive anywhere else, then you might be able to get by.


Is there any tire store around the area? I'm sure they're willing to help you out. They don't even need to lift your car up or get it into the service bay. Just zap the nuts off and torque it back on before proceeding to the next one.

chi123

iTrader: (12)

Some people have suggested me to use a pipe for more leverage. I'll see how much tire shops want to charge. There are lots of them around here. Otherwise, I could just bring in my car to my school during my Auto Tech class but I will have to wait two weeks since the shop is showing demos and has no space. Thanks for the idea!

KillaIS250

iTrader: (1)

As far as the LC818's go, the fitment will be fine, there's quite a few people on this forum who have them. The tires are 35 instead of 30 in the front because it will fit in the front, with a wider rim and fatter tire in the back, you wanna go thinner on the sidewall. You can run 235/30/19 on the front if you want, it may be a tougher size to find, but why would you want to? You generally want the most sidewall that you can fit and not look off between front and rear.

chi123

iTrader: (12)

Ah I see. I noticed on the 350 when I first brought it, the rear tires look fatter even though they are both 40. I guess a 35 on the front and 30 on the rear will look better then. Thanks bro!

hoser813

iTrader: (1)

What has worked the best for me is I took an old hockey stick shaft and slipped it over the lug wrench that comes with the car. A couple feet of leverage and you barely have to pull to get the lug nuts to break free.

ColtM4A3

I've done the same except I used the handle off my floor jack instead of a hocky stick shaft.

projectdna

iTrader: (56)

10mm width difference with the same aspect ratio isn't as drastic of difference as the same width but different aspect ratios. case in point:

tire size = sidewall height
225/35-19 = 78.74 mm
235/35-19 = 82.042 mm
235/30-19 = 70.358 mm

a few millimeteres here and there may not mean a whole lot of difference, but it ultimately affects the tire's rolling diameter - which affects the speedometer and odometer as well. the closer to the OEM rolling diameter, the less it will throw off the speedometer and odometer readings - and in certain situations, prevent traction control from kicking in too early.

and if the wheels come in a different hub size, get a set of hub rings. the oem hub size for the 2is is 60.06 (or rounded up, 60.1).