DIY - Upgrade Factory Alarm
And I was all proud of myself for installing a midpipe.
10-21-10, 09:14 AM
#23
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks again everyone for the props, I know it seems daunting but it's not really all that bad. I went into this with zero previous experience, it was actually my first time ever using a voltmeter.
If you can do the nav haq/bypass, then you can tackle this mod.
P.S. For those who are planning to attempt this I will be making an adjustment to the DIY. I have found a better wire to tap than the door trigger, the wire is right next to the black wire I specify (it's white and two slots over) which is for the door unlock detection. I did the install on another IS, but for some reason, although the glass break sensor was tripping the door trigger(light was turning on), the alarm was not going off. This was weird because the tilt sensor, which was tied into the same door pin, was tripping the alarm. Changing over to the door unlock detection, which is a ground trigger as well, fixed the problem.
If you can do the nav haq/bypass, then you can tackle this mod. P.S. For those who are planning to attempt this I will be making an adjustment to the DIY. I have found a better wire to tap than the door trigger, the wire is right next to the black wire I specify (it's white and two slots over) which is for the door unlock detection. I did the install on another IS, but for some reason, although the glass break sensor was tripping the door trigger(light was turning on), the alarm was not going off. This was weird because the tilt sensor, which was tied into the same door pin, was tripping the alarm. Changing over to the door unlock detection, which is a ground trigger as well, fixed the problem.
10-21-10, 09:21 AM
#24
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The factory alarm only activates if a door, hood or trunk is opened/unlocked. You would need to integrate either a shock, or proximity sensor into the alarm, or get an after-market to have it go off when getting egged.
10-21-10, 09:28 AM
#25
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've went through your walkthrough 3x now and just trying to figure everything out before I start tearing away at the interior. Expect some PMs in Novemeber when I'm less busy 
.
.
10-21-10, 09:33 AM
#26
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
10-10-11, 11:20 AM
#29
I did this over the weekend on my non-nav 2008 Lexus IS350 (I actually hook up an alarm system through this).
Taking the air vents out takes the longest. Make sure you watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF_JNaVTir0 before doing it, if you read the instructions on the DIY nav hack thread, it sounds complicated and gets confusing (at least I got confused and did it wrong :/ ) It's very simple on the video. After that you can read the rest on how to remove the stereo unit. You might want to use one of those L shaped torque tools, I need that on my 10mm bolts, or it won't move at all with the power tools.
Another tip on removing the wires plug into the stereo is to use a small screw driver as leverage to pry it out, while holding the locking clip down. Otherwise, you'll get sore fingers trying to pull them out like me ...
Here's a picture of the wires. It's actually the top 2 wires (green and orange) on the bottom plug of the group. They're next to each other. Also, I think the timer delay part is not needed since the tilt sensor has a 2 minutes delay.
Taking the air vents out takes the longest. Make sure you watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF_JNaVTir0 before doing it, if you read the instructions on the DIY nav hack thread, it sounds complicated and gets confusing (at least I got confused and did it wrong :/ ) It's very simple on the video. After that you can read the rest on how to remove the stereo unit. You might want to use one of those L shaped torque tools, I need that on my 10mm bolts, or it won't move at all with the power tools.
Another tip on removing the wires plug into the stereo is to use a small screw driver as leverage to pry it out, while holding the locking clip down. Otherwise, you'll get sore fingers trying to pull them out like me ...
For those with non nav, you will need to look for a plug, that when looked at from the back, as the photo above, will start with a Green wire (BATT) in the top right corner and 10 slots later (Right to left) should have an Orange wire (ACC). These are your tap locations. I highly recommend you use a voltmeter to test these to make sure they are correct. If you do this, please take a pic of the plug so I can post for others, thanks!
