dorkacho

iTrader: (5)

does anyone know how many i'll need for an 2010 is350?

kikkomanrj

Plugs? One for each cylinder (6).

IS_Sunny

iTrader: (1)

I did this DIY today. It wasn't too bad, but I have some advice for anyone planning this.

OP mentions this, but ABSOLUTELY buy a "10mm ratcheting wrench" before starting this. No question about it. For me, it was literally impossible to remove the bolt on the tube without it.
Take my word and don't attempt this without that wrench. It's under $20 and will work quickly and easily to remove the bolt for the driver side front tube. You really only need it for that one tube/bolt

Also mentioned in this thread but be SURE to check that you reconnect all of the wires/plug harnesses which you removed to access to area. I double checked that I plugged everything back in when I was done, then started the car only to have all the VSC, Tracking and Check Engine lights on. I re-checked all the connections and found one tiny plug that wasn't reconnect (was hidden under some cable bundles).

Just those two things: get that wrench for the front drivers tube bolt and make sure you've connected all plugs and hoses back when done.
I'm sure most folks would be fine anyway, but it will save you some time.

Took me about 30 mins for the passenger side
And 2 hours for the drivers side, spending at least a full hour trying to get that bolt without the proper wrench.

Freedom76

Hi CL,

I am new to the club and I am looking for Spark plugs for a 2008 GS. I am located in Philadelphia currently but I am will to order from anywhere for a good price. Please note I just hit the 60K mark. Could anyone recommend a good mechanic in the Philadelphia area?

Aviator753

Good info and great job. Awesome!

Gerb

When are we suppose tot swap em? 160k km? is350

razerlazer

Hi CL members

This is my first post. Great forum, very active and excellent resources, especially the DIY stuff.

If you are worried about cross-threading the sparks plugs on installation then there is a 99% sure way to avoid this.

When you go to install the new plugs check the plugs threads and the threads inside the heads (as much as possible) for damage and make sure the plug thread lead in is clean with no burrs, dings, etc (the lead in is where the thread starts)

The plugs are rotated clockwise to screw in so once you have inserted the plug with the socket and extension and it has reached the head thread gently turn it anti-clockwise by hand only (not using the wrench) without applying any down pressure. When you feel it click and drop down very slightly that means the lead in on the plug has dropped off the lead in on the head thread so they should be lined up ready to engage.

Start turning the plug clockwise by hand to engage the threads. All going well the plug should screw in smoothly then bottom on the washer ready to be torqued up with the wrench.

If the plug won't screw in smoothly or easily try rotating it anti clockwise again as above.

This works on most metal threads and even self tapping screws into plastic.

Personally I would not put any lubricant on the thread (unless the factory workshop manual specifies it) as it'll effect the torque setting and cause over-torquing.

Hope this helps.

Mark

mabrodis

x1000 on the excellent writeup.

I just did this on our '08 IS350. The problematic bolt (driver's side, forward-most coil-pack bolt) was ok, mostly in the fact that I knew (from this thread) that it was possible to get it out without removing the intake. I cracked it loose with the box end of a normal combination wrench. My gear wrench (Gearwrench brand) was actually too thick to even fit on the bolt (it hit the intake) but a normal (Craftsman) wrench did fit. I cracked it loose then just unscrewed with my finger. I actually spent much more time getting the wiring harness pulled to the side enough to get the coil-pack out and ofcourse I friggen dropped a wrench which took forever to fish out from below the engine with a magnetic picker-upper.

So, mucho gracias for the writeup and the discussion (after reading all 10 pages things make more sense when you get in there and do the work).

These plugs had 106k miles on them (yeah yeah yeah), the middle cylinder on the driver's side had oil around the plug the others were dry. I didn't put any oil or anti-seize on the plugs (never have on any other vehicle I've replaced plugs on, not sure why I'd start now). The spark-plug screw-in engagement actually felt much more solid on this engine than most I've had, some are really vague about cross-threading, this was clean and crisp.

bryan11

Another thanks for the write-up on this as well as the detailed discussion. I completed this on my 08 is350 today in about 2 1/2 hours. The first plug on the driver's side was still a pain, as the geared wrench I got was about 1/8" too thick to fit on the bolt. Using the open end and constantly adjusting things, it worked.

is250fsprt

Hmmm had mine done recently too thanks to this write up. Seem like the tube seals in the middle cylinder sucks on theses cars. I had the same oil leak with mine. Had the dealership replace all three seals and new valve cover gasket. Hopefully my next spark plug change will be dry in all cylinder.

datboiM

Has anyone tried a different SP that provided similar or better performance?

Badassboi

THX help Really big time!

Gs3500

Good write up and discussion. 2 tips:
1) make sure you get at least 3 ratchet extensions to reach the driver side plugs
2) for the driver front plug, use 13/32 socket and extension to easily unscrew the bolt

Happy DIY!

nosurprise

iTrader: (1)

I tried to do this today, but I wasn't able to. I decided to try to remove the hardest one on the driver side first, but I'll need to take the intake manifold off. The manifold completely block any kind of attempt to reach the bolt under it with a ratchet wrench or with any extension. My car is 2008 ... I wonder if the year matters.

Fojo

I need to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 06 is250. I was gonna do the plugs at the same time, but I can;'t find a DIY for the 250. I hear the IS250 is harder?