sirkfc

I'd 100% rather have mileage depreciation as opposed to time depreciation. The people that drive 5K a year are the ones that should question whether they should have spent the money for a new car. Think about your cost per mile.

Trust me, I know. I have a 97 BMW 740iL that has around 70K miles (and that's only because i've been trying to drive it more). It was averaging only about 3K a year when new. Given that I still had to change the oil regularly to keep it fresh, and considering the time depreciation, my cost per mile on that car is astronomical.

To the OP. While 40K miles a year is high, you'll save relatively on maintenance per mile. I assume you drive long trips on the highway. It means your brakes aren't being used per mile as a city driver. You can probably use synthetic and get at least 10K on your oil.

I will say this though. Our car is small, so it might not be terribly comfortable on long trips after a while. So test drive it a bit before you buy.

15951

Therein lies the disconnect in our conversation. Black Book is what dealers use to appraise trade-ins. It is based on average auction sales values.

NADA might be useful, but it is what the dealer uses for sales (so it was reasonable for the bank to use it to give you a loan). A dealer will not give you the NADA value for a trade-in. Not even close. Not even the NADA "trade-in value". Period.

If they do, then they are playing number games with the trade and the car you're purchasing. Or they're looking to go out of business soon.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Regardless of the source of the numbers, the difference between 100k and 200k miles remains rather small, a few grand at most, which was the basic point.

A few grand is a small price to pay to ride in a really nice car for 200k miles versus a really basic crap car for 200k miles.

WhatYaGot

I purchased my IS350 new in 2006 and now have 90,000 miles on it. I drive 80-85% highway. I get an average of 28 MPG and if I drive it like an old lady I can get 30 MPG. I usually use cruise control on the highway. I get an average of 40,000 -43,000 miles on a set of tires (Now on my 3rd set - always make sure tire pressure is correct and vehicle is properly aligned). I had the brake dust TSB done on the brake pads at 20,000 miles and have currently have 70,000 on the replacement pads.


I do plan to keep my car for 10+ years, so I should hit 300,000 by the time I get rid of it.

So, with a little luck and maintenance, you should be ok with a IS

shadowman

iTrader: (2)

Civic has excellent crash safety results...NHTS five star. It will match the IS.

But if you get a regular Civic, you'll end up pissed off like me. It is slow as ballz. If you want to spend 25K, why not get a new Civic Si? If you can't drive stick then new TSX can be had for around 26K depending on your negotiaion skills.

If your concerned about Lexus maintenance cost because you can't do them yourself, be prepared to grab your ankles. Lexus dealership charges about 80 - 90 bucks an hour labor alone.

omelet1978

I ended up buying a 2010 Ford Fusion Sport and after 6 months i'm at like 20,000 miles with my commute. I actually moved a little farther away from work to a downtown condo so my commute has gone from 40 miles to 50 miles!

If I would have gotten a Civic it would have been the SI, BUT the curb weight is a little too light at roughly 2800 lbs. The Fusion's curb weight is 3500 which makes me feel a little more comfortable if I get into a wreck.

Overall I like it and its well built. I kind of wish I had a true sports car at times, but I've got bills to pay and the Fusion is doing what I wanted...no maintenance problems and is at least somewhat sporty.

gmancash

Nissan 3.5 coupes
coupes are nice , they're easy to maintain,
Mpg is great , and you can rip 0-60 in 5.7 sec if needed (:

HankMoody

Damn man, you do realize that thread is almost 7 yrs old ?