When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow - Lots of good info here... much appreciated, andper10 and redspencer!! From these two UOA's, I'd be more tempted to replace the tranny fluid than the diff fluid, despite Lexus' claims they are both good for the life of the car... What do they consider said "life" to be? If it's 200k, I'm getting close!
My guess is whatever it takes for the owner to get past the factory warranty; then it's not their problem. LOL!
I just did my diff fluid change after 64k km (not miles) from last change
I don't have UOA but fluid is not pitch black, still quite clear when draining out. And on the drain bolt magnet there is only a very thin film of black residue, nothing shiny or chunky. I think I can extend this one further. Original oil was Toyota dealer oil and I replaced with AMSOIL SG 75W90.
Same here,
Just did my diff fluid change after 91K miles
Original fluid is much darker when draining out and on the drain bolt magnet there was a black thick goo...
Replaced with Mobile1 75W90.
Same here,
Just did my diff fluid change after 91K miles
Original fluid is much darker when draining out and on the drain bolt magnet there was a black thick goo...
Replaced with Mobile1 75W90.
can you let us know how many bottles of the mobil1 you used?
No. You have to read the label. A transmission can have straight cut (noisy but strong) or helical cut gears (these appear as angled). These gears have far less shear induced during meshing than a hypoid gear like that of the rear diff. Notice on a diff the power comes in from one direction and goes out another (90 degrees). Hypoid gears can be destroyed if the wrong fluid is used. That said, a manual transmission can use either while our rear diff requires GL5 lube. Read the label. It must meet GL5 spec of better.
Would anyone know if TOYOTA 08885-02506 formula has changed, and no longer synthetic (have seen some cans state; "75W-85 is a premium quality differential gear oil using synthetic technology", and some not (view third photo). Both cans state EMG Lubricants (EXXON / Mobil).,towards the bottom below the DON"T POLLUTE statement.
Have since been made aware that LX 75W-85 API GL-5 is for Limited Slip differential only, and LT75W-85 API GL-5 is for non Limited slip.
PREFACE: Searched about and couldn't find a DIY on the IS350 Differential fluid change. I did find a nice one for the IS300. It worked very well as a reference, so I completed the below IS350 DIY with high credit to the IS300 article author: My.IS forum member Hiroshima - LINK. Imitation (plagiarism) is the sincerest form of flattery. I hope DIY'ers here find it helpful.
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here were performed my 2007 IS350 with HKS exhaust (may make for some clearance difference if you have a stock exhaust). I make no promises that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! I assume no liability if you crush your fool self or set your car on fire and burn down your house (or any other series of unfortunate events).
WARNING: Automotive fluids are not good for you. Like the author of the IS300 DIY, I have no reason do doubt the statement that used fluids are carcinogenic. Use latex/nitrile gloves when handling used automotive fluid, and wash your hands ASAP after you have completed the task.
WARNING: When working under a raised vehicle do not depend on the jack alone!!! Use jack stands and place them under the lift points as described in the owner’s manual.
Time Required: 45 Min (more or less, depending on your experience)
Parts:
Differential Drain/Fill Crush Washer Part Number: 12157-10010. (Buy at your Toyota dealer or online...Lexus dealers seem to think these are made of gold...) (QTY to Purchase: 2 - for fill and drain bolts)
Other options:
-Toyota Synthetic Diff fluid (if you can mystically find some)
- Amsoil SVG 75W90 or so I am told.
- Mobil1 LS 75W90
- Pick a winner of your own. Manual calls for (synthetic) 80W90.
Tools Needed:
- Breaker bar
- 4" socket extension
- 10mm allen key 3/8” socket
- Torque wrench capable of up to 40 ft lbs
- Fluid pump (pictured later) or a spill stop fluid tube
(Use 1/2" tools if you have those. Makes no difference, except perhaps a bit of clearance)
If your vehicle is cold, drive a bit to warm up the differential fluid. If the car is already hot, skip this step. Warm diff fluid will drain faster and more completely. Be aware that you are also working very close to the exhaust piping. Keep in mind that your diff fluid will be HOT (or at least quite warm). Take appropriate precautions.
Step 1: Jack up the car. The car should be ‘level’ when jacked up. If you have four point jack stands, use those as it will be much easier to maneuver under the car. My garage backs up to the nice fairly quick slant of my driveway so just a bit of jacking on the DRIVERS side (diff fluid drains toward the passenger side), and I can keep the car level (again, use jackstands where appropriate)
Reference: Pictured below you will see the differential housing. This is the passenger-side view. The bolt on the top-right is the FILL bolt, the bolt on the bottom-left is the DRAIN bolt.
Step 2: Remove the *FILL* plug first. If you for some reason you drain the diff and cannot get the fill plug removed, you will have to flat bed your car to the dealer. Better to be safe and make sure you can undo the fill plug first. Use the 10mm allen head socket and the breaker bar. This bolt will be tight. Make double sure that the allen head is square and firmly in the hole before applying force.
Note: I had to use a 4”socket extension due to the position of the exhaust. Not sure if there will be any additional clearance with the stock exhaust.
Step 3: After you remove the fill plug, remove the drain plug using the same 10mm allen socket and the breaker bar. You have just enough clearance to sneak in there. Have your drain pan ready. To keep fluid from splashing on the exhaust, I use a funnel to route the fluid until it slows enough to not be an issue. Not required, I just don’t like a mess.
Step 4: Allow fluid to drain. Get a drink, watch a show on TiVO, whatever. Just give it time to drain. Even warm diff fluid is fairly thick.
Note on amount drained: I wanted to know how much fluid was ‘actually’ drained from the differential. After the differential was drained, I emptied my catch pan into an empty container with level markings (see below). Looks like right at 1.5qts was drained, so pretty close the 1.42QTs in the manual, given that some fluid is bound to still be in the diff housing.
Step 5: Clean the drain plug. The plug is magnetic and is designed to capture and hold the fine metal shavings associated with normal wear. The plug should have a black coating of goo and metal particles. If you see large metal shavings or chunks, see your dealer.
Step 6: Replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. Reinstall the drain plug and torque to 36 ft lbs.
Step 7: Remove the entire cap from your new diff fluid. Insert your fluid pump. Place the dispenser end into the ‘fill’ hole on the differential. (You can alternately use a ‘spill stop’ tube and get the bottle as high as you can under the car…the fluid pump is just a heck of a lot easier)
Step 8: Positioning the diff fluid container (with attached pump) just right of a brace there is enough room for it to fit standing up. Pump away; you’ll empty the first container and need to use about half of the second container. Transfer any left over fluid from bottle number 1 to bottle number two. The fill spec for the IS350 differential per the manual is 1.42QTs. Using the “fill until spill” method I put in right at 1.5QTs. (“Fill until spill” – continue to fill until fluid begins to run back out of the fill hole in the differential)
Note: The fluid pump displaces some of the fluid in the bottle and will give you an artificially 'high' reading on how much fluid is left in the bottle. You will have to slide it out part way to get an actual check on how much you have pumped into the differential, if you choose to use 'accurate measurement' over 'fill until spill'.
Step 9: Wipe off any spillage near the diff fill hole. Replace the fill plug (remember to use a new crush washer). Using a 4” socket extension, torque to 36 ft lbs.
Step 10: Double check the torque on your fill and drain bolts. Done. Clean up, recyle your used oil, get a drink.
Apologies if I may have overlooked any links provided however, have the accompanying photos since been removed / relocated? Also, interested if anyone has used Red Line Fully Synthetic 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil part 50104? It references Toyota/Lexus on label.
Red Line full Synthetic 75W85 GL-5 GEAR OIL (Ester base stock):
-API Service Class GL 5+
-Vis @ 100°C, cSt 11.5
-Vis @ 40°C, cSt 68
-Viscosity Index 163
-Pour Point, °C -45
-Pour Point, °F -49
-Brookfield Viscosity, Poise 300 @ -40°C
Understood. Thanks 2013FSport.
Have decided on using Red Line Oil 57904 (75W90 GL-5 Synthetic Gear / Differential Gear Oil ). Am aware Red Line manufactures the recommended 75W85 GL-5 viscosity however, after receiving reply from Red Line, decided on the 75W90 GL-5; "Manufactures have been reducing drive train fluid viscosities to improve their CAFÉ numbers.(Corporate Average Fuel Economy). You wouldn’t be sacrificing any protection using our 75W85, so there likely wouldn’t be a benefit to using the higher viscosity 75W90. Using the higher viscosity 75W90 wouldn’t cause an issue other than a slight fuel mileage penalty and performance of the differential would be the same with using the 75W90 as the 75W85.". Would like to know from members who have performed the change themselves,what device was used to re-fill the differential case after draining? Was thinking of using the multipurpose sprayer shown below, to re-fill the differential with new fluid, while vehicle is on ground and not on jacks or raised.Would remove / cut off the nozzle from the tip, and insert the plastic tube into full hole to re-fill. If needed, can also cut off more length of plastic tube and install flexible tube (3/8" ?), at end to insert into fill hole for more flexibility around vehicle chassis to access the fill hole.
That's a good concept but the sizing is all wrong. Meaning, fluids being pushed through a tiny orifice will be aerated and unless you let it sit for while, it will show over full.
Cheaper and easier is simply attaching a clear vinyl hose to the cut tip and let gravity and squeeze bottle pressure do the work. That said, you can just cut the tip off and go direct to the housing and not waist any fluids being stuck in hose or container.
05-22-17, 01:38 PM
