Slammer1

No problem bro. You can do this, just take your time. Shoot me a PM whenever if you need help. A first install can be a bear and the fact that your first is an OE integration on a car with an audio system as complicated as a Lexus makes it that much more of a challenge.

CCJ22

iTrader: (26)

Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bass only suppose to hit below 75hz? Anything above that is considered midbass I thought? I assumed anything higher then 75hz could damage a sub. Am I wrong?

jsmacks

People call it different things. According to a general consensus such as is listed on this chart , "Sub bass" is 15Hz - 60Hz while "Bass" goes all the way to 250Hz. I generally think of bass as going to that end.. and that's where you'll see most amp crossovers max out at. Most people's hearing stops around 30Hz, so below that you can end up muddy'ing the bass.. and this is what the "sub sonic filter" adjustment for is on most amps.

As far as hurting the sub, no way.. unless you're already overpowering it to begin with.

It comes down to your individual preference and listening style. Some people listen to music and like only ultra deep, narrow frequency response and/or overly boost the 40Hz range. Some people like it up higher or a wider response. Purely personal preference.

CCJ22

iTrader: (26)

Gotcha. So when I see ya and we ONLY tap the rear STOCK subwoofer I'll get ONLY ultra deep bass out of the aftermarket subwoofer correct?

And if we tap both the stock sub and 6.5" door speaker then I'll get more SQ and less SPL out of the aftermarket sub?

This is theory of course.
Sorry for newb questions.

jsmacks

Not necessarily less SPL, because you can compensate for that by your LC2i settings and turn up the output to your amp. The settings on that thing are pretty sensitive and leave plenty of room to turn it up. The only thing you would gain is a slightly wider frequency responce.

CCJ22

iTrader: (26)

So it seems like a win win situation to tap both stock speakers. That's neat. Thanks for explanation.

rapsquared

iTrader: (2)

After reading 17 pages today , I have the following questions

I have a 2008 Lexus IS-F with ML and Nav. Sub is blown

I am using same Scoshe LOC pictured.

I have tapped the brown/lime green wires.

I cannot locate the front woofer wires to tap into (colors dont match OP's) and I cannot tell from the picture which harness plug they are located in.

Using the rear most plug as number 1 and counting towards the front of the car which harness of the 4 are the needed wires in?

The two I have tapped now are in #3. I need an answer on the proper front woofer wire colors/harness number and also on the remote wire color and harness number. If I over looked it somewhere in this thread, please point me in the right direction.

916lexus

I'm going to be doing mine soon. Thanx for the pic and instruction.

jadeboy

iTrader: (1)

This make sense to me. I want to confirm, so you are saying I can use a 2 channels LOC (e.g. audiocontrol LC2i) instead of using a 4 channels LOC as recommended in the beginning of the thread?

Supremancy

For anybody reading this thread. I did my install today with a LC2i. If you are going to use a LOC plz plz be sure to get the 6 channel one. I believe on the 6 channel you can adjust each input. This is needed because the lows will over power your mids and highs.

I recommend tapping into into the door and sub speaker lines. With out the door lines you will miss out on a TON of bass notes. I am even considering tapping into all the lines except the tweeters bc i just dont get the highs that i want.

Now i know some people are going to say "but you have a sub you should not be playing highs." Before my Lex i had an accord with a pioneer head unit and it sent all signals to the sub and it sounded daaam good. So i am trying to get as close as possible to that quality.

vboi4life

iTrader: (2)

i just buy JLsub and amp from another member.after reading 17 pages too many time and i still confused.my car is 250 09.i will let the shop do the install.im not good at wires or tap car audio.what should i tell them to do when they install my sub?

G9N

iTrader: (2)

Subscribed.

Uber350

Just did a single 12" install on an 09 is350 non ML. For my 09 non ML, post #181 was dead on. Thanks Kumquatism! Confirming that the remote wire is the thin orange wire closest to the rear of the car.

I would highly suggest tapping at least one front woofer and without a doubt the rear woofer. On the front door woofer alone, a whole lot of low end is missed. On the rear main woofer alone, a whole lot of midrange is missed, In conclusion, tap both. Also, unhook the main sub in the rear deck while you are running the wires and have the back seat out. This way you can just reconnect the harness at the sub when you go back to stock. Someone said it sounds better with it hooked up, so I left it hooked up. Nope. It muddies the bass. So now I have to take the back seat out again to disconnect.

As of now the lows are overpowering the mids, so I still need to play with the LOC levels, and being that my only way to change bass levels from the drivers seat is through the factory stereo, it completely tweaks the LOC signal, didn't see that one coming, but it's manageable.

kumquatism

iTrader: (10)

Glad I could help. And yes I agree to disconnect the stock sub. I tested it with the stock sub plugged up, and I hated the way it sounded so I disconnected the sub immediately. Setting the LOC to get a good balance of low/mid bass is pretty time consuming. I think I adjusted mine like 4-5 times before I found something I was okay with. If I were to do over, I might just get a signal processor to make the whole thing simpler.

Slammer1

I strongly recommend not just disconnecting the factory sub, but removing it. This gives you a pass through for the sound. Your sub will play much louder in the cabin with the OE sub removed, trust me.