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DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures

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Old 07-23-11, 11:09 AM
  #151  
aznpapaya
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i installed the amp and subs and they are working perfectly, the only problem now is that for some reason my amp gets really really hot, i would take a 1 hr drive and you can literally fry and egg on it lol. I search and most people said that the main problem could be because of a bad ground. Yesterday I took everything apart and rewire everything, i found what seems to be a much better place for the ground, i found this screw that's screwing down this clip which appears to be touching the frame of the car . But my amp is still getting really hot really fast. Any recommendation on where you guys ground your wire?

here's a pic of where i ground my wire, i know it's not exact but just to give you guys the general idea where i ground my wire.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55999657@N04/5967723590/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55999657@N04/5967723590/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/55999657@N04/, on Flickr
Old 07-23-11, 11:13 AM
  #152  
kumquatism
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Did you sand down the area before you grounded it down?
Old 07-23-11, 11:29 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by kumquatism
Did you sand down the area before you grounded it down?
no i did not. but the place where i ground it seems to be bare metal tho.
Old 07-23-11, 12:58 PM
  #154  
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I also need a better ground location. I used a place under the back seat.
Old 07-23-11, 02:29 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by kumquatism
Did you sand down the area before you grounded it down?
Ground location can affect sound quality, but a bare metal ground is probably not causing it to get really hot. Causes for that are:
1. internal fan not working - check that first (if it has one)
2. inadequate air space around on the amp, particularly the heat fins which need plenty of air around them
3. pushing it really hard at a high gain will do it too; not much you can do about that except get a more powerful amp that doesn't have to work as hard.

hope that helps
Old 07-23-11, 02:46 PM
  #156  
aznpapaya
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Originally Posted by Supernin
Ground location can affect sound quality, but a bare metal ground is probably not causing it to get really hot. Causes for that are:
1. internal fan not working - check that first (if it has one)
2. inadequate air space around on the amp, particularly the heat fins which need plenty of air around them
3. pushing it really hard at a high gain will do it too; not much you can do about that except get a more powerful amp that doesn't have to work as hard.

hope that helps
superin, thanks for the input but:
1. The fan is working, i can hear is running.
2. there's nothing in my trunk except the amp and sub, i didn't mount it upside down either. It's just sitting there in the trunk with a whole lota space to breath lol.
3. my gain is at currently at 60%, 70% max, but i'll try to turn it down more to see if it helps with the heat problem.

I'm also intereted in a better grounding location if anyone want to share their.
Old 07-23-11, 04:22 PM
  #157  
joeker
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if you remove your passengerside trunk carpet/panel(requires removal of a couple of clips), there is already a ground location which is used for factory electronics.
Old 07-23-11, 06:33 PM
  #158  
aznpapaya
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Originally Posted by joeker
if you remove your passengerside trunk carpet/panel(requires removal of a couple of clips), there is already a ground location which is used for factory electronics.
can you be a little more specific, or perhaps a picture would be great.
Old 08-16-11, 12:40 AM
  #159  
Supremancy
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Originally Posted by aznpapaya
superin, thanks for the input but:
1. The fan is working, i can hear is running.
2. there's nothing in my trunk except the amp and sub, i didn't mount it upside down either. It's just sitting there in the trunk with a whole lota space to breath lol.
3. my gain is at currently at 60%, 70% max, but i'll try to turn it down more to see if it helps with the heat problem.

I'm also intereted in a better grounding location if anyone want to share their.
Another reason for an amp to run hot is your sub configuration...Check your amp and see what impedance should be at the terminals (should either be 2ohm or 4ohm) and then see what resistance your sub is. If it is too low then it will overheat your amp with in like 5 to 10 min.
Old 08-18-11, 09:27 PM
  #160  
Likwid XTC
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finshed it today after a few 30 minute sessions here and there total was probably 5 hours cause im working with my son as well.lol

i had to fish through the whole post to find out what i need so ill list everything i did for the non ml version

i used a

scoshe 4 channel LOC
i tapped both set of wires from the oem subwoofer (going left to right on the amp plugs)
located on the second plug
brown + and green -
pink + and sky blue -

remote wire
located on the third plug
orange wire all the way on the end

after that it should be very easy and basic if you installed a system before, rca ,power wire, and ground.

and the end result
(all the wires are cleaned up and hidden, i had extra that i just cut off and left it there as i had to tend to my son)
Attached Thumbnails DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures-img_0761.jpg   DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures-img_0762.jpg  
Old 08-18-11, 09:31 PM
  #161  
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also the enclosure is wrapped in white carbon fiber vinyl wrap
Old 08-25-11, 12:14 PM
  #162  
IS3003o3
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So just started doing this for my '11 non ML and there seems to be a problem..

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Old 08-25-11, 06:40 PM
  #163  
bfedro427
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Originally Posted by 06tpis350
Hi, quick question..tell me if I'm right=] what Im understandin just hook the sub wires green - and brown + from ml amp into loc. My question is. Does matter were the wire goes on the loc. Like for example to rear left speaker - and + goes on loc slot a5+ and a6- which is + and - equals to green - and brown + ml sub wire. Then for the RCA I choose the rear left speaker. Would I need to hook up a Y RCA to have a left and right that goes to the aftermarket amp. Please tell me if Im right ? Help Cl. Thank again on advance=]
Can anyone post a pic of what the y-splitter looks like and how it is connected?
Old 08-25-11, 10:51 PM
  #164  
IS3003o3
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so the '11 non ML systems do not have any orange wires. I didn't have any meters or anything so I couldn't test the wires for a remote line. I ended up getting the 4 channel LOC from Wal-Mart and ended up tapping the subwoofer wires (brown & green, sky blue & pink, yes both pairs for non ML). also tapped the cig lighter fuse for remote right now everything is fine. its all a matter of adjusting everything
Old 08-26-11, 04:23 AM
  #165  
bfedro427
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Originally Posted by IS3003o3
so the '11 non ML systems do not have any orange wires. I didn't have any meters or anything so I couldn't test the wires for a remote line. I ended up getting the 4 channel LOC from Wal-Mart and ended up tapping the subwoofer wires (brown & green, sky blue & pink, yes both pairs for non ML). also tapped the cig lighter fuse for remote right now everything is fine. its all a matter of adjusting everything
Same here...don't see any orange wires period. Mind posting a quick diagram of how you wired it to the LOC? Seems to be a bunch of conflicting information as far as whether to do both pairs for non ML


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