Need Guidence (IS-300) 2008 Mark Levinson SUBWOOFER
12-24-19, 02:37 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Need Guidence (IS-300) 2008 Mark Levinson SUBWOOFER
I have a 2008 Lexus IS-300 with the mark levinson system
I need to replace the subwoofer as it is blown, i replaced it with a used one and it lasted only a week now there is no BASS and i have 2 blown subwoofers. and i am planning to experiment on 1.
i want to get rid of ML-SUB and replace with an aftermarket one.
I searched the forum and couldnt find a definitive answer.
I simply want to buy a nice aftermarket sub, I just simply need to know the ohm and watts if they matter.
Does anybody know FOR SURE, what is the ohm for the Mark levinson-sub that comes in the IS-300 or 250 model 2008?
I need to replace the subwoofer as it is blown, i replaced it with a used one and it lasted only a week now there is no BASS and i have 2 blown subwoofers. and i am planning to experiment on 1.
i want to get rid of ML-SUB and replace with an aftermarket one.
I searched the forum and couldnt find a definitive answer.
I simply want to buy a nice aftermarket sub, I just simply need to know the ohm and watts if they matter.
Does anybody know FOR SURE, what is the ohm for the Mark levinson-sub that comes in the IS-300 or 250 model 2008?
12-24-19, 07:22 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
update
when i reached home i did the same thing again and it started to work again..
any idea whats wrong with it?
12-25-19, 06:24 AM
#5
Intermediate
That Kicker would be happier in an enclosure, with a Qts of .54
In free-air, it'll be boomy and with 8.6mm of xmax, there's lots of music it won't keep up with. But everyone else will likely hear/feel you.
My personal winner is the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2, with a QTS of .98, the 3db dropoff will come farther down the scale and less harshly from it's 65hz Fs, compared to the Kicker's 40hz Fs. On a graph, the Pioneer will appear much flatter and the Kicker will look like K2 in free-air. Depends on how you like your music.
I'd hijack the factory signals going to the sub and run them into an amp with high-level inputs to drive whatever aftermarket sub you get, regardless.
And I'm pretty sure factory sub is 2 ohm, dual coil.
Edit: when looking at free-air, the power of the motor is more important, and one of the ways to judge that is Qes. Qes and Qms (mechanical Q) make up total Q: Qts. Qms is the mechanical resistive factors of the surround, cone, construction materials, inertia, ect. and the less compliant the mechanical properties of the speaker are, the stronger a electrical motor it takes to keep the cone in control.
The Kicker has a stiffer suspension and a weaker motor, so it's graph will go up and down as it comes in and out of it's ideal operating range. The Pioneer's motor is much more capable of keeping the suspension under control in free-air, through a broader frequency range.
In free-air, it'll be boomy and with 8.6mm of xmax, there's lots of music it won't keep up with. But everyone else will likely hear/feel you.
My personal winner is the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2, with a QTS of .98, the 3db dropoff will come farther down the scale and less harshly from it's 65hz Fs, compared to the Kicker's 40hz Fs. On a graph, the Pioneer will appear much flatter and the Kicker will look like K2 in free-air. Depends on how you like your music.
I'd hijack the factory signals going to the sub and run them into an amp with high-level inputs to drive whatever aftermarket sub you get, regardless.
And I'm pretty sure factory sub is 2 ohm, dual coil.
Edit: when looking at free-air, the power of the motor is more important, and one of the ways to judge that is Qes. Qes and Qms (mechanical Q) make up total Q: Qts. Qms is the mechanical resistive factors of the surround, cone, construction materials, inertia, ect. and the less compliant the mechanical properties of the speaker are, the stronger a electrical motor it takes to keep the cone in control.
The Kicker has a stiffer suspension and a weaker motor, so it's graph will go up and down as it comes in and out of it's ideal operating range. The Pioneer's motor is much more capable of keeping the suspension under control in free-air, through a broader frequency range.
Last edited by Ultra4; 12-25-19 at 06:48 AM.
12-27-19, 03:51 AM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
That Kicker would be happier in an enclosure, with a Qts of .54
In free-air, it'll be boomy and with 8.6mm of xmax, there's lots of music it won't keep up with. But everyone else will likely hear/feel you.
My personal winner is the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2, with a QTS of .98, the 3db dropoff will come farther down the scale and less harshly from it's 65hz Fs, compared to the Kicker's 40hz Fs. On a graph, the Pioneer will appear much flatter and the Kicker will look like K2 in free-air. Depends on how you like your music.
I'd hijack the factory signals going to the sub and run them into an amp with high-level inputs to drive whatever aftermarket sub you get, regardless.
And I'm pretty sure factory sub is 2 ohm, dual coil.
Edit: when looking at free-air, the power of the motor is more important, and one of the ways to judge that is Qes. Qes and Qms (mechanical Q) make up total Q: Qts. Qms is the mechanical resistive factors of the surround, cone, construction materials, inertia, ect. and the less compliant the mechanical properties of the speaker are, the stronger a electrical motor it takes to keep the cone in control.
The Kicker has a stiffer suspension and a weaker motor, so it's graph will go up and down as it comes in and out of it's ideal operating range. The Pioneer's motor is much more capable of keeping the suspension under control in free-air, through a broader frequency range.
In free-air, it'll be boomy and with 8.6mm of xmax, there's lots of music it won't keep up with. But everyone else will likely hear/feel you.
My personal winner is the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2, with a QTS of .98, the 3db dropoff will come farther down the scale and less harshly from it's 65hz Fs, compared to the Kicker's 40hz Fs. On a graph, the Pioneer will appear much flatter and the Kicker will look like K2 in free-air. Depends on how you like your music.
I'd hijack the factory signals going to the sub and run them into an amp with high-level inputs to drive whatever aftermarket sub you get, regardless.
And I'm pretty sure factory sub is 2 ohm, dual coil.
Edit: when looking at free-air, the power of the motor is more important, and one of the ways to judge that is Qes. Qes and Qms (mechanical Q) make up total Q: Qts. Qms is the mechanical resistive factors of the surround, cone, construction materials, inertia, ect. and the less compliant the mechanical properties of the speaker are, the stronger a electrical motor it takes to keep the cone in control.
The Kicker has a stiffer suspension and a weaker motor, so it's graph will go up and down as it comes in and out of it's ideal operating range. The Pioneer's motor is much more capable of keeping the suspension under control in free-air, through a broader frequency range.
what sub should i buy? 8ohm ,, 4ohm or 2 ohm
please guide me as i am not good at this ..
Last edited by abdulrafay; 12-27-19 at 04:01 AM.
12-27-19, 06:29 AM
#7
Intermediate
I chimed in because you seemed committed to a driver that doesn't fit our acoustic applications as well as the one I suggested, and then gave the Thiele/Small explanation for it. I know next-to-nothing about the noisemaker Lexus cursed us with, as I've never rigged a car audio system that re-used any factory wiring.
That being said, I had to do a bunch of searching, and I'm still not positive so maybe someone with actual knowledge on the stock junk will chime in here, but it seems the 2IS ML sub is a dual 8-ohm voice coil, which is an odd bird to just swap out from the aftermarket.
The way around that is to take both voice signals going to the sub and feed them into an amplifier with high-level (speaker) inputs. When you do that, your new amp will be able to drive more common low-impedance subs. Like either we mentioned above.
If you just want to keep the factory amplifier, then I would just replace the factory sub with another factory sub. Even the specs that skew to the better side of the spectrum read like an expensive '80s boom box.
Best idea would be to find out why the subs are blowing in the first place. Factory amp get to hot and create it's own jumper? wired wrong? moisture?
That being said, I had to do a bunch of searching, and I'm still not positive so maybe someone with actual knowledge on the stock junk will chime in here, but it seems the 2IS ML sub is a dual 8-ohm voice coil, which is an odd bird to just swap out from the aftermarket.
The way around that is to take both voice signals going to the sub and feed them into an amplifier with high-level (speaker) inputs. When you do that, your new amp will be able to drive more common low-impedance subs. Like either we mentioned above.
If you just want to keep the factory amplifier, then I would just replace the factory sub with another factory sub. Even the specs that skew to the better side of the spectrum read like an expensive '80s boom box.
Best idea would be to find out why the subs are blowing in the first place. Factory amp get to hot and create it's own jumper? wired wrong? moisture?
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03-17-20, 02:38 AM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
guys thanks for the infomation,
heres the update : (sorry i am a newbie here )
i found one used sub and installed it , now what i noticed is ;
1- the over all sound is not as good as it was before, i mean the volume and base , i remember previously on 32 i was enjoying now its sounds like 20 while the volume is 32...
2- sometime i hear a "CLICK" sound and everything goes dead.. then if i play again it works...
so i think its the amp.. maybe that was the reason my subs kept on blowing.
any help?
how can i check ?
can i replace the amp with any aftermarket amp?
any suggestions.
heres the update : (sorry i am a newbie here )
i found one used sub and installed it , now what i noticed is ;
1- the over all sound is not as good as it was before, i mean the volume and base , i remember previously on 32 i was enjoying now its sounds like 20 while the volume is 32...
2- sometime i hear a "CLICK" sound and everything goes dead.. then if i play again it works...
so i think its the amp.. maybe that was the reason my subs kept on blowing.
any help?
how can i check ?
can i replace the amp with any aftermarket amp?
any suggestions.
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