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If the caliper is seized opening the bleeder won't help and you don't need to crack it open on a good caliper either. Use a C-clamp to compress the caliper (protect with the brake pad or something else) it should retract easily enough.
FYI it is possible to cause the master cylinder reservoir to overflow when compressing the caliper so keep an eye on it. Generally not but possible.
If the caliper is seized opening the bleeder won't help and you don't need to crack it open on a good caliper either. Use a C-clamp to compress the caliper (protect with the brake pad or something else) it should retract easily enough.
FYI it is possible to cause the master cylinder reservoir to overflow when compressing the caliper so keep an eye on it. Generally not but possible.
When I did this with my LS I removed the cap and put a shop rag around the brake fluid cap and put another couple below it to catch any spills. The rear calipers don't have a ton of fluid so hopefully the shop rags will catch any tiny drips.
OP don't shove that old **** back up the line. No good comes of it. Dot 3 attracts moistures and it needs to come out every two to three years. Look in my build thread in Feb 2024 (post 481), you'll see the right tools.
Place a silicone tube on the bleeder with the other end in a bucket (or use a syringe) and apply pressure to retract the piston, then open bleeder and continue applying force until piston is seated. Promptly seal bleeder.
Again, see build thread.
Edit typos and wrong date.
Last edited by 2013FSport; Aug 24, 2024 at 08:26 AM.
OP don't shove that old **** back up the line. No good comes of it. Dot 3 attracts moistures and it needs to come out every two to three years. Look in my build thread in Feb 2024 (post 481), you'll see the right tools.
Place a silicone tube on the bleeder with the other end in a bucket (or use a syringe) and apply pressure to retract the piston, then open bleeder and continue applying force until piston is seated. Promptly seal bleeder.
Again, see build thread.
Edit typos and wrong date.
Here is the example using spreader on the worn pads.
Here is how you avoid all that nonsense. Summarized up top. Pics below.
1) use pliers to compress the piston while the brake pad is still installed. Leverage, baby. EZPZ.
2) siphon or suction fluid out of the reservoir ahead of time ($7 for the pictured pump on Prime, if you are too lazy to just siphon it)
3) siphon/suction your reservoir volume once a year; it will over a week mix with the piston fluid and remove/reduce water and contaminants. Repeat as you feel necessary.
4) Use Dot 3, not Dot 4. Dot 4 is much less hygroscopic and requires less maintenance. Dot 4 is only desirable if you track your car a lot. A LOT.
Pics; because we all love pics.
1) - Squeeze now. (Brakes were just re-done, for illustration purposes). No need for c-clamps later and all that.
2-3) Just use a hose and suck/siphon, or this cheap pump, $7. Do it once a year and you do not need to bleed. You can dilute out water and contaminants throughout the system this way.
4) DOT 3 FTW, baby. Google this if you are unclear ‘bout hygroscopicity. Unless you are tracking your car twice a year, use DOT 3. Slightly lower boiling point, but less water absorption. You can tell by my photo above it’s wet here; we take this seriously.
If someone argues (not “doubt” or question - but argue) point 3) that fluid will mix, then put them on your ignore list, they have no idea how chemistry and physics, as well as brake systems work. Good litmus test of someones mechanical, chemical, physical knowledge.
Before you argue this point, google “Brownian motion” and look at a diagram of a brake system. Think about it. And it can be proven with test strips - it’s been done.
Is the rotor smooth all the way edge to edge? It looks grooved, but pics can lie. Metal on the rotor usually ruins it. My local Napa turns rotors for $10, you could always take it to them and they can judge and mic it to see if it’s still in spec if you are not able to measure it yourself.
Put the new pads in and have someone hit the brakes and release; watch to see if the pads (piston) retract. The extreme difference in wear implies a problem. They are easy to rebuild yourself, too. You often don’t need a rebuild kit - just take them apart and clean the piston and bore with crocus cloth. On the same gen GS the lower pin is captured and you can’t remove and clean/lube it even if the piston works fine. I think this is the same. Make sure it allows the caliper to float and is not seized/rusted. Mine were and in that case you need new calipers.
I might use a knotted wire wheel to resurface my rotors myself. Rear pads are $20, new guide pins $10. Might also replace boot since a video says swelling causes the loss of lubrication.
The right rear caliper was super hard to pull back. Used a rubber mallet to hammer it back.
Right rear inner pad worn to metal; the left pad was 4-5mm thick but fell off the pad when removed due to rust on the backing plate.
No idea what to do next about the calipers--I remove them and have to bleed the brakes after I clean them? thoughts? Prayers?
Make sure the calipers retract correctly and evenly. The lower pin on these seizes. Make sure yours is not seized. If you have very uneven wear, that makes it a possibility.
Seized caliper?
