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It´s my 3rd post and I still have yet to get a response on anything, please help.
I think I figured out that my steering is locked on my IS250 as the wheel won't turn at all even when both front wheels are off the ground. I do not see any codes (using a generic OBD2). And there is a Red steering wheel icon on the cluster with an exclamation mark to the right of it.
I have tried a combination of pushing/pulling the wheel from side to side and shaking it while depressing/holding the push-to-start button both with and without the brake. Is there a more precise procedure for unlocking the steering? Is there a motor that unlocks the steering? If so, where is it located?
I drilled and beat the steering lock off but the steering still feels locked. I`m guessing I need the right OBD2 device to diag the car so I am headed back to my other thread.
I drilled and beat the steering lock off but the steering still feels locked. I`m guessing I need the right OBD2 device to diag the car so I am headed back to my other thread.
If that's the case, it sounds to me like you'll be changing the rack if no suspension components are confirmed to be broken/bad preventing the wheels from being turned. Just to add a note, the steering wheel needs to be able to work even without power steering available due to safety (if the wheel completely locks while driving, a bad accident will happen). If the car is powered on, it will still able to be turned with some effort due to lack of PS.
You mentioned in your other thread that your battery was low. Can you confirm your alternator is good? These cars do not like when the alternator starts to die and will throw all sorts of faults with the lower voltage it's putting out. I highly doubt this is your issue since the steering wheel should still be able to be turned, doesn't hurt to check though.
As for a code reader, you likely need something that can actually read the power steering codes which your typical cheap code reader will not be able to do. I can check tomorrow if my bluetooth OBD + the OBD Fusion app will read them on my car at least.
As for a code reader, you likely need something that can actually read the power steering codes which your typical cheap code reader will not be able to do. I can check tomorrow if my bluetooth OBD + the OBD Fusion app will read them on my car at least.
Agreed. I have four code readers bought over the years ranging from 19 to 99 dollars, but on the Autel 880 ($400) can actually see manufacturer codes. There's also techstream which you can rent for a weekend.
If that's the case, it sounds to me like you'll be changing the rack if no suspension components are confirmed to be broken/bad preventing the wheels from being turned. Just to add a note, the steering wheel needs to be able to work even without power steering available due to safety (if the wheel completely locks while driving, a bad accident will happen). If the car is powered on, it will still able to be turned with some effort due to lack of PS.
You mentioned in your other thread that your battery was low. Can you confirm your alternator is good? These cars do not like when the alternator starts to die and will throw all sorts of faults with the lower voltage it's putting out. I highly doubt this is your issue since the steering wheel should still be able to be turned, doesn't hurt to check though.
As for a code reader, you likely need something that can actually read the power steering codes which your typical cheap code reader will not be able to do. I can check tomorrow if my bluetooth OBD + the OBD Fusion app will read them on my car at least.
There are no apparent issues with damage to steering or suspension components behind the wheels.
The battery is reading 12.5V and 14.1 with the car running so I doubt there is an issue with the alternator.
I bought a Techstream cable and it will arrive in the mail tomorrow so hopefully, it will read some codes and provide some direction.
I agree with you that the rack might be the culprit however now I need to figure out if it is possible to test it somehow.
Agreed. I have four code readers bought over the years ranging from 19 to 99 dollars, but on the Autel 880 ($400) can actually see manufacturer codes. There's also techstream which you can rent for a weekend.
As far as I can tell, the OBD Fusion app with the Toyota add-on with a Veepeak BLE+ OBD reader lets me read the EMPS system. Of course I can't see any codes since I have none, but at least future reference for those who may be curious.
Originally Posted by ISthisright
I bought a Techstream cable and it will arrive in the mail tomorrow so hopefully, it will read some codes and provide some direction.
Just make sure you follow the directions given with the cable to install the software correctly. We cannot provide assistance with installing it as the only official way to get Techstream is from Toyota directly.
As far as I can tell, the OBD Fusion app with the Toyota add-on with a Veepeak BLE+ OBD reader lets me read the EMPS system. Of course I can't see any codes since I have none, but at least future reference for those who may be curious.
Just make sure you follow the directions given with the cable to install the software correctly. We cannot provide assistance with installing it as the only official way to get Techstream is from Toyota directly.
Thanks for your help.
I was able to get Techstream running although I am unfamiliar with how to use it, I did a health check (which I assume reads all the modules for errors) and was given a B2281 next to "Power Source Control".
Am I correct that the car does not need to be on to run a check? If not, I assume it needs to be running to calibrate the steering. Where are the settings for calibrating the steering? Any insight you can give me on the trouble code or what I should be looking for would be helpful.
I was able to run a health check after turning on the engine... here are the codes it spit out.
C2123 Tire Pressure Monitoring
C2142 Tire Pressure Monitoring
C1203 ABS/VSC/TRAC
C1241 Four Wheele Drive
C1528 EMPS (has some kind of a snowflake-looking symbol in the third column)
B1442 Air Conditioner
B2412 AFS
B2413 AFS
B2281 Power Source Control
B1801 SRS Airbag (currently have the steering wheel off)
B1811 SRS Airbag (currently have the steering wheel off)
ECT shows it has a calibration code of 55356000
I suspect the C1528 EMPS is where I need to look after a Google search mentioning the Power Steering motor which I assume is the motor hanging off the top of the rack (see photo).
What is my next step? I am guessing I should try checking the connection to the motor however due to the steering wheel binding (not moving), I am thinking replacing the rack will be my next step given the fact that the steering wheel won't move with the front wheels off the ground. I think I can get a rack for $120 so I would probably skip trying to replace just the motor given the fact that the whole rack might have an issue not just the motor.
Any of this sound right? Am I on the right track or should I be thinking about something else?
Last edited by ISthisright; Jul 8, 2023 at 04:54 AM.
After putting the steering wheel back on, I only get codes for ABS/VSC/TRAC C1203 and Air Con B1442 with the ETC throwing a calibration code of 55356000 and EMPS calibration code of D60203F4. The Electric Power Steering System Warning Light is still on and I still suspect I need to change the rack. Ideas?
After putting the steering wheel back on, I only get codes for ABS/VSC/TRAC C1203 and Air Con B1442 with the ETC throwing a calibration code of 55356000 and EMPS calibration code of D60203F4. The Electric Power Steering System Warning Light is still on and I still suspect I need to change the rack. Ideas?
Car should be on, but not started to get codes. Most of those codes are pretty irrelevant. The only other things I can suggest would be to double check all connections on the rack are tight and check the steering ecu connectors (to get to it, pull your battery out and it's under the battery pan). Even so, still doesn't explain the total lack of being able to turn your wheel.
Honestly? It sounds like a rack replacement is going to get done. If you're planning on doing the rack yourself, the subframe needs to be dropped if I recall correctly. Follow the instructions here to give you an idea: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ml#post9832756
Just to confirm, if the vehicle is running and your place both hands on the wheel, the wheel cannot be turned with high effort?
When the car is started and shut off the steering wheel lock makes a noticeablely loud movement. Was that not heard and that lead to its removal?
Did I understand this correctly that you cut off / removed the electronic locking device from the column? Was it replaced?
The car drove to a position before this happened so, it seem improbable that rack itself is locked up from sitting. Well unless it was having issues before hand.
FWIW whenever multiple unrelated codes come up like was shown a few posts up, it's sure indication that the battery went under voltage and data packets from the various computers were effectively lost or scrambled generating all those errors. It's best to clear them and see if they return.
Last little bit, if the battery ever had the polarity reversed, it will pop the 80 fuse in the fuseable link under the clear cover by the battery.