So the P0117 code just popped up again. I attached images of the freeze frame from my OBD2 and also a video of the engine bay. The car was turned off and the fans were still running as well.

https://streamable.com/8gywvy

 

Please tell in detail the whole story of what just happened there.
It was topped off, started, ran for how long??? And where is the steam coming from?

When was the water pump done and all other details going back to before this problem started.

PS - I'd highly recommend shutting it off at 225 235°F as something is way wrong and it's going to cost you an engine if nof managed properly.

Also, if your cabin is not blowing scorching hot air, take the belt off and spin the water pump by hand...

 

P0117 issue started happeing Sunday. The water pump is still the original. It's a 2012 IS 250 with 152k miles. The steam looked like it was coming from just below the resevoir. Maybe some dripped out down onto metal below causing the steam.

My car for some reason will not blow hot air. i turned off the A/C and turn the air up to max temp and it still doesn't get hot. I've had a problem pop up every so often where the a/c will randomly start blowing as if the a/c was off even though the a/c button is illuminated. So I have to press the a/c button to turn off and then it starts blowing cold air again. I can't remember the name of the part but I think its blend door acuator?? Anyway that's not my real issue.

 

You have a massive air bubble in that system.
When the temp gauge heads right of straight down thats the 235F or higher and you should be turning the HEAT to the highest setting "90f?" and on high. If it's not blowing hot hot hot air it means
A) the pump lost its impeller. Nope - not likely!
B) there is a huge pocket of air in the system.

Options are:
Stop and buy the funnel kit suggested.
Fill the system, burp it by squeezing hoses.
Raise and lower RPM's. Fill more and contine revving to get circulation.
Raise the nose. Lower the nose.
Drive the right left side up on a ramp. Do something different to get that trapped air out. The heater when set to highest setting should blow hot air. Yours does not seem to do this as it's got air trapped which can warp a head and ruin your engine.

That make sense?

 

Yeah it makes sense. Do I squeeze the hoses with the radiator cap off and the car running?

I still changed the thermostat though. I drained the radiator and there was less than a gallon of coolant. Thought that was weird.

Here's the 11 yr old one.

 

Car has been running for 17 minutes. Engine temp is 178. Inside cabin is blowing hot air. And here's what my funnel looks like. I think I'm good now??

https://streamable.com/xscwyq

 

You need to do it until no bubles are present when the cooling fans come on. Normally, hold the rpms @ 2000 for about 1 minute. This will raise the temp a little faster.

Let the cooling fans come on at least 4-5 times. The key is no bubbles. Once the air is gone, you'll see no bubbles surfacing at all, and perfectly still water in the funnel. Once done, turn the car off and leave the funnel on until the engine has cooled down significantly and pulled coolant back in. Remove funnel on cold engine. If that makes sense.

 

I was supposed to turn the temp up to the max and leave the fan on low right??

 

So I drove the car the last two days with no overheating issues at all. But on the way to work this morning my check engine light came on and I got code P0117 again. OBDII scan showed I passed all emissions tests except evap system again as well.

 

Don't clear coded before looking at the freeze frame data. Knowing when it happens helps. Do you have the old sensor and a hand held DMM? Please advise.
Can you set up your device to log data and log engine coolant and transmission temperature?

Also, several things that passed on your car are not even supported to my knowledge.

 

I have the old sensor and a dmm. I messed up earlier and didn't realize that the P0117 was an inactive code just stored in the OBD. The active code that did pop up was P0420. Here's the freeze frame of that. Also, an error message flashed on my LCD display it said climate control system error. I turned off the air then turned on back on a few seconds later and it was fine. But this happened a handful of times today. Not sure if it's related to cabin air filter but I just changed that like a month ago.







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For the Evap check the vacuum solenoid hose. It's the one that runs under the intake pipe. It could have become dislodge from the hard line coming from the EVAP canister. It's right across the oil dip stick.

Last make sure the solenoid is actually working. Audible clicking and it's not stuck open, or closed.

 

Audible clicking as in the connector locking in place??

Are you talking about the circled red hose or the circled blue hose?

 

Here's the climate control error that I was talking about

 

Okay so my car hasnt overheated since last Friday and the temperature never got higher than 235. Today I had a longer than normal drive (little over 100 miles round trip). On the way back the engine started overheating in the low 270s. The last couple of days I have noticed that under where my car was parked were 5 or 6 drops of liquid. It kind of smelled like coolant but it had the consistency of really watered down oil basically. The last 2 or 3 days I have heard squealing for a few seconds coming from the engine bay.

This means my water pump is bad doesnt it?? The timing belt as well???