So I am still uncovering so much about my new to me 2003 Lexus is300, we call her “Lucy"
I got down to take some pictures of the O2 sensor and got a few more shots
and im not sure what I’m looking at...... or what that unhooked, unbolted mess is.
I’m hoping it is a cover of some sort and not my actual fuel tank, but I’m not sure. Whatever it is, it doesn't seem to be bolted down and it looks like its crumbling

Do you think this car was flooded?
do you know what that crumbling gray thing is.

location is under the front passenger side.

Notice the brakes???? There are NO fricken pads on the back! OMG

found one of the coil connectors is holding on by a thread... looks like the housing crumbled but its still somehow connected, cause its firing!

O M G

Im gonna burn the man who sold me this car... this is a nightmare.
but sadly... I love the car. ��

Anyway... look at my pictures and tell me what you see. i will number them from the top left to right and same on the next row.

anyway, would love to hear the feedback.

thanks!

Christa


link to my pics...

https://www.clublexus.com/g/album/5479533

 

No response???

Anybody?

 

I don't think that's the fuel tank. It looks like the black plastic covers that go under the car. From the factory almost the entire underside of the car is covererd w/ plastic paneling. Mine was kind of destroyed when I got it so i've never had it on my car. I would imagine it increases mileage and reduces road noise.

It sounds like there are a few things to sort on the car before it could be considered happy. Fix the coil, replace bolts that are missing if possible (from a junkyard car if you can find one), and replace the rear brake pads.

 

Unfortunately the IS forums are pretty dead, so don't expect many quick replies

as daddystop mentioned, that's just a plastic cover. It's common to crack those from driving, jacking up the car, or someone doing work and not replacing hardware.
Best thing to do with a used car is tear is apart on the weekend, get a bunch of parts on order, and then get to work the following weekend.
Get it up on a lift and note any missing bolts or fasteners.
Go through the engine bay and look at all connectors to make sure they are seated and no wires are frayed.
Check all clamps around any hoses and lines.
Replace all filters, change the oil, flush the coolant, replace & bleed brakes, flush the fluid, do the tranny and rear diff fluids.

It will take some time and a few bucks, but it's an investment if you plan on keeping the car for as long as you can

 

Doing the best I can!
Will post updates!
thanks for your response!

 

Again... thanks for your help!
I will post updates!

 

You're welcome, glad to help. Excited to hear that you get it running properly.

 

Okay, so Fedex finally showed up with my O2 sensors and it took me a bit on the
B2S2, cause of the darn connector and the rubbery thing... but I did it.
Almost all of my previous 7 codes are gone now. but now 3 new codes have appeared
The C1241 is back. So I will mess with the battery connectivity again, and it will
dissapear.

C1223 - but this is no surprise- we are planning on new brakes, calipers and rotors.
C1224 - the VVTi circuit.

and she is limping AGAIN! ��

 

Great to hear you got somethings sorted out
But not so great that you need even more work.

But are you sure you mean C1224 - VVti Circuit?
I do beleive C1224 is communication problem with one of the ABS-sensor and that could also be the reason for C1223.

Or do you mean P1224?

Also C1241 Low battery voltage would be the firts thing to sort out since low battery voltage could cause other things to not work properly and therefore create "fake" fault codes

So make sure your batery terminals is good and tight, otherwise check the health of your battery

 

Thanks for your response!
The battery code is odd...because I cleaned the posts
and the battery has a full charge... it’s a new battery.

Yes the other two are Abs

 

AND THEN.....

So this morning ...

None of the previous codes from yesterday afternoon are there, except a new ABS code C1201
Now it’s showing the throttle codes again. P2121 and P2127
I am trying to find the correct terminals for the APPS connector, and am making new pigtails, which will
hopefully fix this issue.

 

Did the pigtail. No change. So I broke down and ordered a new APPS. 🤬

 

Crisy - one of the things I would look at as well is the battery connection. Your car shouldn't be "ok" sometimes and then have check engine lights at other times. This makes me think that your battery is letting the ecu reset and erase it's stored codes. I'd go over the charging system (i think someone else mentioned this in one of the other threads) because before that is absolutely 100% working properly I wouldn't expect that troubleshooting the other stuff will work.

*Test the battery voltage with car off and at idle.
*Test the voltage coming out of the alternator to see if what is seen at the battery differs from what is seen at the alternator.
*Test the ohms on the wire that charges the battery from the alternator if they differ.
*Make sure you have every factory ground possible hooked up and in good condition (use the manual to find those)

Your battery should be just over 12v all the time with the car off and 14 or just above when the car is on. If you're very far off with either of those numbers I would address the charging circuit before buying anything else. New APPS sounds expensive!

 

It tested over 12 volts every time and the dash gauge shows it right around 14 when the car is on. I think it had a new alternator. It seems to happen when I hook up the positive side a certain way... so I’m making sure not to do that and now there is no issue.

Found the APPS for around $130 new discounted.

Guess we will see what happens next!