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Bought some 2uz headers. They needed minor work to bolt to the engine. They'll need more work to fit the chassis. But they look good.
11/12: did some work tonight. nothing major.
Test fit. Surprisingly easy.
the biggest issue with the 1st test fit was the abs box, had to move it. this is it's temporary location
It's straight in the air. Lol oh well. It'll work for now.
there was no issue with the heater core piping I'll trim it back slightly but did not interfere with install.
Not too bad. I may trim but may not.
the motor mounts (using uz mounts from a gs400 part 12361- something it's mentioned earlier). don't quite fit the x member, they have to flex a little but it doesn't cause a concern. Very small amount of flex. They were a little stubborn difficulty 1/10
this was a test fit. the trans tunnel has to be hammered slightly to help squeeze the z trans in place but it's not bad. very very light hammering is needed.
the x member and oil pan are an issue. they are very close not quite touching but close. I'll take my BFH and modify that tomorrow.
I painted the trans silver for a reason, it'll mark where on the tunnel it's touching, (bellhousing fits perfectly). even the shifter sits near factory.
Fantastic news. I got the measurements for a r154 transmission and compared then to the z trans. Apparently I was raising the transmission too high during my initial research. absolutely no hammering needed.
for the trans cross member, I used the stock is300 auto trans crossmemver and modified it to fit the 300zx trans mount (well I didnt, my buddy did)
the engine now sits perfect, trans angle is perfect, measuring for drive shaft tomorrow.
I also installed the clutch pedal. Had to pull the dash. this had to be the easiest dash I've ever done.
Clutch pedal was a pain, I messed up the measurements when I drilled the firewall, and took me a whIle to correct that.
now to order my 1 piece driveshaft, and my radiator should be here tomorrow. I'm getting so close!
Good work man.
FYI, if fitting the Tundra headers turns out to be a major pita, the first gen sc400 manifolds will work. They worked on all the chassis I swapped a 1uz into.
I have a set of those Tundra headers. I'd love to use them but they will not fit in any of my swapped cars.
Good work man.
FYI, if fitting the Tundra headers turns out to be a major pita, the first gen sc400 manifolds will work. They worked on all the chassis I swapped a 1uz into.
I have a set of those Tundra headers. I'd love to use them but they will not fit in any of my swapped cars.
the passenger side fits with very little modification. I had to cut off the 3 bolt flange and extend it abut 3 inches.
the driver side is a different story.
this one will require some thought. I'll cut all the the last 2 runners off and work from there.
but fitting them in the is chassis it, wasn't too bad for the passenger side.
12/8 been busy with life and such. Haven't had much time to work on the car.
I scrapped the at emulator idea. I sent my ecu off to Russia for immobilizer programming evap delete mt conversion and rear o2 sensor delete.
modified the factory auto crossmember to accept the z trans mount. this was pretty simple.
as for the shifter situation, xcessive manufacturing makes a shortened shifter linkage.
a very small amount of cutting was needed. I believe it was less than 1/2" ignore my dirty finger.
then shifter hits the interior chrome ring and I can deal with it but screw that let's do it right. pulling the shifter out and modifying it slightly to bring it back to the center of the shifter hole so it'll sit like factory when the interior is back in place.
I also ordered the xcessive toyota uz to toyota power steering line, it's steel braided and relatively inexpensive. so why not? an fuel lines are soon to be in and I can start putting everything back together before firing it up.
8/20/17 Edit:
no cutting of the trans tunnel, or shifter opening is needed. The actual shifter was modified to fit the chassis. It was cut and brought forward I believe 1/2" to help clear the interior trim.
after removing the battery tray and relocating abs module the passenger head hits the firewall.
Wiring is blocking the view but you get the idea. Too close. Better view Swing pressed, donkey punched and painted. Meh doesnt look great but youll never see it. Son of a, I really liked that color too. Well at least doing valve cover gaskets wont be impossible.
clutch line on the way courtesy of technafit, I asked them the dimensions specs to their nccl-300 line z32 complete line and it's an exact fit for the is chassis.
Drive shaft has been measured, now waiting on the quote. Hopefully that'll be here this week. My ecu is still in transit to Russia for swapping, and then I get to find an connectors for toyotas awkwardly designed fuel lines. Thinking a compression sleeve type fitting to -6an to braided hose should work, but that'll be taken of last.
the drivers header is a no go, but I'll be making that work. Currently I'm designing a 4-1 header for the drivers side. It'll have a slip on type collector and the header will split around the steering linkage. That would probably be the best way whIle maintaining serviceability. Ever work on a z32 300zx? Yeah trying to avoid that.
Thinking a compression sleeve type fitting to -6an to braided hose should work, but that'll be taken of last.
There are metric to AN fittings that work great with the toyota/lexus fuel lines. I've used them in a couple of my swaps. I don't trust those compression fittings on the fuel lines.
There are metric to AN fittings that work great with the toyota/lexus fuel lines. I've used them in a couple of my swaps. I don't trust those compression fittings on the fuel lines.
Just need the right legnth of line to link the two.
Thank you for the link yota. I was looking for that exact piece instead of doing the compression sleeve. I measured the hardline fitting again, it's an m14x1.5 and I found an earls fitting that looks very similar to that female to 6an adapter and has an oring so it's very similar to the original toyota fitting. It's $10 shipped. I went ahead and ordered that piece.
In case many of you were wondering how the z32 trans fit in the IS chassis, here ya go. Not much difference in R154 vs RS5 dimensions. That large part sticking out in the 2nd picture is the z32 speed sensor, it comes close to the trans tunnel but does not touch. Since I'm doing an auto to 5 speed conversion the speed sensor will not be used. I can take it out and cover the hole with a plate, but it's not hurting anything so why bother?
So many hurdles but you just keep on jumping them...
Gotta keep on keepin on. The hurdles haven't been too bad, clutch was taken care of by suprastore and spec, flywheel was a royal pita because of the z trans splines, rb25 trans is even worse, and the firewall, I lucked out because I pulled the battery tray and noticed it. I'm just glad I got through them before I fired it up and noticed excessive vibrations and tapping noises. I'm down to just the last couple hurdles, Drivers exhaust manifold, and running out of funds. I'm rushing to get this project done so I can help get this caldina swap all trac started.
So my driveshaft won't be in for another couple weeks, but it's expected being close to the holidays and all. ECU is still in BAKU awaiting shipping to Moscow. I was doing a little research into the IS300 "abs relocation" and came across this gem of a page
All the measurements are there. Instead of using a -3AN line, I'm going to a local hydraulic shop (since I don't have the crimp tool), and having these 6 lines made with these dimensions. Instead of the -3an fittings on the end I'll be using m10 x 1.0 brake line fittings to help clean up the engine bay and give the abs relocation a trick look. I'm estimating it shouldn't take no more than $150 to have this done, but if it's too much I'll keep the factory hard lines for now.
Finishing-lines.com has this kit premade for $299, that's a bit steep for just 16ft of braided line with fittings.
Anyway, no update to the car as of right now, I measured the brake pedal for chopping to fit the manual pedal pad, but I haven't gotten around to doing that. If I mess it up it'll be replaced with an OEM brake pedal assembly.
I trimmed the heater core pipes back a little to help route the hoses easier, But I'm thinking those will be modified as well. Might as well dress it up a little while I'm waiting for parts to arrive. So once I get the measurements of those I'll be sure to include them.
I ordered my -3an brake lines for the abs relocation, and some m10x1.00 to -3an brake line adapters. Brake lines ordered from Summit racing, and I think it was around $190 for everything. No one could get me a price and kept passing the buck.
I ordered 12 qty -3 an to m10 metric brake fittings for around $5 each. Instead of getting a brake line tool and bending lines these might be a little easier to work with.
My list of stuff that needs completed before driving:
ABS relocation
Drivers Side header
ECU (still waiting for it to arrive in Moscow)
A/C line, i have both the uz line that's cut and the is300 uncut line, I just have to take them to get them merged.
The passenger header was very simple, cut off the 2uz header 3 bolt flange extend it 6" and weld a new flange or reuse the flange you just cut off (I opted for 2.25" v bands).
On a side note, my daily IS300 decided to explode it's heater core.....I found an aftermarket brand that's received some pretty good reviews, oh yeah my blend door is broken as well. So I ordered a used hvac box, since the dealer wants close to $3000 for a new one. I don't see a write up about the heater core anywhere on this forum, so I get to be a pioneer. But that won't happen until after the new year because of shipping times. I practiced on a junk car yesterday pulling the dash and hvac box, it wasn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. I can pull a dash in about 30 minutes, and the hvac will take another hour or so. I just have to evacuate the ac, since the evaporator sits in there as well.
Abs lines fittings and drive shaft came in Christmas eve oh yeah the ecu finally made it through russian customs (almost a month later).
did the abs relocation, there's still 2 lines I have to modify, these are return lines and regular vacuum hose will work. I still have enough room to run a smaller odyssey battery, so looks like I'll either be doing a battery relocation or running dual batteries.
it's not the prettiest but better than it was. 42" lines were perfect length, I'm glad I went longer.
tomorrow I'll finish the drivers exhaust install driveshaft and get the ac line made (if I have time,if not it'll wait until next tuesday).
I realized today I didn't have a maf for my engine so I'll swing by the junk yard and pick up one from a v6 camry. It'll work for now, I'll get a new oem one in the coming months. I also don't have the mounting flange for the maf, it's not the same as the is300. I found a weapon R intake in ebay for $200 shipped, might have to go with that unless I can find an alternative.
my friend is a wiring guru, he's taking care of the harness right now. Hoping to have everything ready and installed by the end of next week,
11-11-16, 10:11 PM
