I was going to put this in another thread, but it got long enough I decided to make it a stand alone thread. My 2008 brake actuator was original and going bad. No codes yet, but it was coming. Local shop (not dealer) wanted $2500 for the job. They did recommend waiting for the codes to appear, but I couldn't wait any longer. I read a couple reports where the codes appeared as the actuator failed and the brakes got hard. Brakes are too important to mess around with. I ordered the actuator online. About $1300 to the front door. Bought some DOT3 brake fluid and did it myself. Changing out the actuator is rather simple. The hardest part is bleeding. The YouTube video below is what I watched first.

A couple notes:

I ordered Toyota P/N 44050-48191. The Toyota parts places seemed bit cheaper than Lexus for the same P/N.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...l#post11159337

The day prior, its nice to remove the engine covers and hit the actuator area with some soapy water and hose it off. Makes the job the next day that much cleaner. Do this a day ahead if you are going to do it. Water and DOT3 fluid don't mix. You want the work area dry.

Be careful when you pull the two ABS relays. They are $50 a piece, so don't crack one with a pair of pliers.

I used all of the 32 oz bottle of DOT3 fluid I bought for the job. Fortunately, I had another small bottle on the shelf. So I used about 40 oz total. I'm not saying that's how much you use if you know what you are doing. Just how much I used. A couple of the bleeding steps really kick out some fluid when the ABS module activates.

When you seat the new actuator, pay attention to the orientation of the mounting posts. They have little tabs that help lock them in the mount. I placed mine vertically facing up.

Be VERY CAREFUL when reinstalling the hard brake lines to the actuator. This is the one part of the entire job where things could go really bad. You've got a LOT riding on not cross-threading them. Hand start each one. It's not hard, but you don't want to work fast here. Be sure about each one being properly threaded before you put a wrench on them.

You really need a functional TechStream or other ECM utility. My TechStream is a little buggy and I had to rerun it multiple times due to a random communication error I was getting. (I'm using an old MacBook running a VM, so that's understandable.). I was also using an old 1.4.1 cable. I'm not sure if a 2.0.4 cable would have been more stable. But it was possible with the 1.4.1 cable. My overall TS setup made the job harder for me than it needed to be.

When you get to where TS bleeds the actuator down, it will repeat this step 5 times. After the 5th time, you are finished. Bleeding is the worst part of the job. You really only do the front calipers (my wife is used to this part of the job from my old FJ40...). The computer bleeds the back ones. But then TS has you circle back to the front left tire. Just follow the steps. TS holds your hand...

After the bleeding is complete, you have to run the "linear valve offset" program for the ECU to learn the new actuator. It's simple in TS. You don't do anything but let the program run for a couple minutes. Be sure to run the "memory reset" program first. TS walks you through it all and the ECU does all the work. Very simple, but I don't know there's a way around having TS (or the like) to do this.

Overall, a 2 banana job if you have TS (or similar program).


https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...l#post11159337

 

Lexus dealer would charge for 2 hrs of work ($250-300)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...l#post10283529

 

That's about right with shop tools and bleeders. Problem is what my local Lexus dealer will charge for the part. $1900+ before sales tax. In the end, it cost me under $1300 all in, including a container of brake fluid. Once I decided to buy the actuator myself, I decided to just install it myself instead of taking it to a local garage. That would have been the path I took without having TS.

 

You can bring a new OEM part to the dealer for installation

 

Hi Hobbes,
Not sure if the brake actuator is the same part# on the Hybrid vs non-Hybrid.

I know for our gas cars these are easy to install and "Dime a Dozen" dirt cheap for clean used ones on ebay last time I checked.
Knowing it's Hybrid it would surprise me though if these were special unicorn and expensive but I don't know.

 

Yeah, the hybrids and non-hybrids require different actuators. Besides being more complicated, there are fewer opportunities for used hybrid actuators since only the HyHi and the RX400h shared them. Both were vehicles sold in small numbers compared to their gas only equivalents. I'm sure you can find RX400h/HyHi actuators in salvage yards. A quick peruse of eBay has used ones around $850 and up (and ships from China). A factory new one is currently $1220.

Each owner will have to make their own decision on new versus used, and DIY or shop installed. For this particular part, there is no slam dunk recommendation. The point of this thread was to merely point out the installation is relatively simple...if you have TechStream. You just need one each of a 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm wrench, some 1/4" clear tubing for bleeding, and some brake fluid. That's it. About three hours working leisurely in the garage with common hand tools.

There tends to not be much DIY information on the RX400h in comparison to other cars.

 

Many thanks for the write up. I just finished mine. My old software (on windows xp) kept having the communication error. After about 8 or nine fails I gave up and order a new cable and installed the new software on windows 11. Almost thru the end and it started to randomly have the communcation errors again. I skipped doing the actual fluid flushes and click thru and go the finally completing the 5 sets before it errors again.. my relays started to crack because how tight it is. I started to install it with a zip tie "ring" around it to help remove it. The issues made my job about 10 bananas.

 

A good TechStream connection sure would make the job easier.

There are some tools made to safely remove the relays. I was too lazy to buy one.

 

I have lexus rx400h 2006 my original Anti-Lock Brake Pump 44510-48060, i found one 44510-48061, is this same?

 

Not totally sure you have the correct part number.. I think 44050-48190 was the original part number. It was superseded by 44050-48191. The part number you have, I don’t see on the standard Toyota parts sites like ToyotaPartsDeal.com.

Amongst other places, you can check part numbers here (you can put in your VIN to be sure): http://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/2...-clamp/2#44510

 

Thanks for posting this.

I've been monitoring that pump on our 2008 RX400h over the years -- noting "how long" and "how often" it runs -- and I've noticed lately it's running a LOT. So I bought a new pump assembly p/n 44050-48191 from https://parts.lexus.com (watch their site, they offer sales during most major holidays) for $1,169.92 (plus sales tax, free shipping, from Lexus of Orland in Orland Park, IL)

I'll be installing the pump next week sometime. After reading about it here and watching the video, the process looks extremely straight-forward.

I've got a proper version of TechStream and a cable that I've used in the past, I trust it will serve me well. I may try to run through some of the "bleeding" and "relearn" processes before I start the job, just to make sure I can finish the job.

 

My TechStream connection made that the hardest part.