Brake Fluid Flush
My RX450h is due for a brake fluid flush. I'd like to do it myself, but I've seen some posts here mention that I would need Techstream software to avoid damaging my brake actuator. I've seen other posts say that the software isn't necessary and that you can change it yourself.
I was planning on using a vaccum system like the Mity-vac to remove the brake fluid and pull new brake fluid in from the reservoir. Would this work? Would I damage my car? Would I also need to drive the vehicle and engage the ABS some and then flush again?
Also if anyone has done their own, how much brake fluid should I buy?
I was planning on using a vaccum system like the Mity-vac to remove the brake fluid and pull new brake fluid in from the reservoir. Would this work? Would I damage my car? Would I also need to drive the vehicle and engage the ABS some and then flush again?
Also if anyone has done their own, how much brake fluid should I buy?
A hybrid is nothing like a regular vehicle and you should take it to a shop for a flush. I have the Mity-vac and do my own brake fluid flushes on my RX but on my hybrid HS250h I take it to a shop. FYI I have been bleeding my own brakes for many years. You will need about a quart of fluid, depending.
It is more complicated and if you do it yourself you need to follow a procedure like this one for a Prius https://priuschat.com/threads/replac...stream.152808/
Look at this for more info on bleeding Prius (or any other Toyota/Lexus) hybrid brakes http://www.exclusivelyhybrid.com/oor...-system-flush/
It is more complicated and if you do it yourself you need to follow a procedure like this one for a Prius https://priuschat.com/threads/replac...stream.152808/
Look at this for more info on bleeding Prius (or any other Toyota/Lexus) hybrid brakes http://www.exclusivelyhybrid.com/oor...-system-flush/
I did that and no special equipment is needed ... that is as long as NO AIR is introduced.
I bought the standard size bottle and used all of it. No sense in keeping an opened bottle.
Hybrid uses an electrical pump ... so no one needs to build pressure and hold. My assistant just kept the foot on the brake and I bled the fluid at each end.
The reservoir is one passenger side so the farthest and nearest ends are different than standard vehicle.
Salim
Note: Brake pump is live ... dont even need to turn the vehicle on. Just make sure the 12v is in good health.
I bought the standard size bottle and used all of it. No sense in keeping an opened bottle.
Hybrid uses an electrical pump ... so no one needs to build pressure and hold. My assistant just kept the foot on the brake and I bled the fluid at each end.
The reservoir is one passenger side so the farthest and nearest ends are different than standard vehicle.
Salim
Note: Brake pump is live ... dont even need to turn the vehicle on. Just make sure the 12v is in good health.
Salim, with due respect - I'd stay clear from your advice.
Those vehicles are brake by wire systems, operated electronically. Multiple valves must be moved inside the brake actuator, to ensure proper brake fluid flow and purging, during bleeding procedure. Techstream protocol is approximately 6 pages long for that.
That you did it and nothing bad happened simply means, you got lucky. I have plenty of posters at Toyotanation that landed with thousands in repairs after DIY attempt to flush brakes. Yes, there are others, like yourself, that did it and got away with with it.
But, as classic goes
Those vehicles are brake by wire systems, operated electronically. Multiple valves must be moved inside the brake actuator, to ensure proper brake fluid flow and purging, during bleeding procedure. Techstream protocol is approximately 6 pages long for that.
That you did it and nothing bad happened simply means, you got lucky. I have plenty of posters at Toyotanation that landed with thousands in repairs after DIY attempt to flush brakes. Yes, there are others, like yourself, that did it and got away with with it.
But, as classic goes
Last edited by ukrkoz; Nov 9, 2019 at 02:10 PM.
No offense taken. Standard disclaimer applies ,,, my advice is worth the money you pay me.
Lot of things can go wrong and in brake fluid purge the key is not to let the fluid pumped out by the motor.
The other mistake folks do is "over do". For me as long as I do the flush frequently and get most of the fluid out of the pipes, I dont have to go after every bit in the controller.
Readers, if you follow my advice, please do it at your own risk. Safest is to go the dealer.
Salim
Lot of things can go wrong and in brake fluid purge the key is not to let the fluid pumped out by the motor.
The other mistake folks do is "over do". For me as long as I do the flush frequently and get most of the fluid out of the pipes, I dont have to go after every bit in the controller.
Readers, if you follow my advice, please do it at your own risk. Safest is to go the dealer.
Salim
Here's one example. In my 8 years at TN, I saw quite a few more.
usually do a brake fluid replacement every 3 years or 50,000 miles. I do it much more frequently on cars I run on road circuits. This week my TCH reached 50,000 miles so I attempted to do a fluid change. I have a bleeder with check valve so it is usually easy to do. When I opened the right rear brake bleeder valve (pressure on the brake pedal), the bleeder hose stayed attached to the valve, but fluid came out at quite high pressure.. Pumping the brakes did not push fluid through the system and the brake, ABSand check VSC lights came on the dash. No air got in the system and the fluid reservoir was not low. The brake pedal feel was normal. I drove the car to the local Toyota dealer and requested they flush the system and reset the lights. After two days, the job was completed and the bill was $535!! They did have to use scan tools and two techs to do the system flush, but at this price I have to believe that Toyota does not have brake fluid replacement in the schedule. If they do, buyer beware of the cost! Since this was "elective" I would not have had the job done if they had told me the cost. The same day I replaced the two front calipers and did a fluid change on my F250 SD with 4-wheel ABS for $90.
As a personal experience, when I attempted to DIY flush on mine, the very moment I touched brake pedal with bnleeder screw released, actuator did machine gun noise. I wisely stopped what I was doing, closed bleeder and said - nahh, I am not that lucky. Sucked brake fluid out of canister, replaced with fresh and let it be.
As I said, I am not lucky. $150 for proper flush at dealer is fine with me. It's on them now.
usually do a brake fluid replacement every 3 years or 50,000 miles. I do it much more frequently on cars I run on road circuits. This week my TCH reached 50,000 miles so I attempted to do a fluid change. I have a bleeder with check valve so it is usually easy to do. When I opened the right rear brake bleeder valve (pressure on the brake pedal), the bleeder hose stayed attached to the valve, but fluid came out at quite high pressure.. Pumping the brakes did not push fluid through the system and the brake, ABSand check VSC lights came on the dash. No air got in the system and the fluid reservoir was not low. The brake pedal feel was normal. I drove the car to the local Toyota dealer and requested they flush the system and reset the lights. After two days, the job was completed and the bill was $535!! They did have to use scan tools and two techs to do the system flush, but at this price I have to believe that Toyota does not have brake fluid replacement in the schedule. If they do, buyer beware of the cost! Since this was "elective" I would not have had the job done if they had told me the cost. The same day I replaced the two front calipers and did a fluid change on my F250 SD with 4-wheel ABS for $90.
As a personal experience, when I attempted to DIY flush on mine, the very moment I touched brake pedal with bnleeder screw released, actuator did machine gun noise. I wisely stopped what I was doing, closed bleeder and said - nahh, I am not that lucky. Sucked brake fluid out of canister, replaced with fresh and let it be.
As I said, I am not lucky. $150 for proper flush at dealer is fine with me. It's on them now.
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Thanks for all of the advice. While I feel comfortable replacing the brake fluid on any non-hybrid vehicle, I think I'll take this in and have a shop do the brake fluid flush this time around. I hear what you're saying salimsah, but I know I'd be pissed at myself if I did it wrong and had to replace the actuator.
Bought techstream and followed the directions (very similar to the Prius PDF).
Here was my experience for what it's worth. This was just a fluid change. There's no other parts like master cylinder or brake lines or what not. You do really need a second person for this. Don't try to do it solo or with a solo setup like you see at HF.
1) Sucked old fluid out of reservoir with turkey baster (remember don't dare use it again beside brake fluid). There's a filter under the cap you'll need to rotate and pull out to get a turkey baster all the way in there. I took the plastic engine shrouding on the left off so I could see the reservoir better. The reservoir itself was quite dusty so give it a good clean before you open it.
2) Connected techstream and had a helper following the techstream prompts while I did the bleeding.
3) Techstream does the fronts first, it tells you to pump the pedal a few times & hold (did 4x and held on 5th). You then crack the bleeder screw and you better have a good hold of the plastic tubing because it wants to shoot off. About 4-6" of fluid is released and then nothing. Tighten bleeder and repeat 3-4x. There's also a note to put the cap back on the reservoir each time, i put it on so air could get in but it was on solid. In any case don't do this thing you read about putting the bottle upside down in the reservoir, that's all junk and not needed here.
4) There was some fluid down from the max line when we got done with the fronts so I refilled dutifully between each side in the front. It wasn't much, same as any other car really.
5) Now the rears. You need to prep your helper that there will be a lot of noise and calling it machine gun rattle seems about right. Under no circumstances pick your foot off the pedal after pumping and holding. It's exactly the same process as the front but the moment you open the bleeder screw the system seems to detect this and fires up a pump (which rattles and is loud) and it pumps a LOT of fluid very fast, like kitchen faucet amounts. If you didn't learn your lesson from the front and holding the tubing tight you'll be swimming in brake fluid now. I would suggest cracking open the bleeder and within a second or so close it to get a feel. There's a lot of fluid used so be careful you don't run out. It's definitely flushing the system out at this point.
Used that new Bosch fluid which comes in a quart. At the end, I was just below the max line and the bottle was all empty. So like I said, be careful on the rears and if you really want to let it go and flush away a while get two bottles. ( )
All that said, I really think it would have more or less worked just fine without techstream. You probably have to really pump a lot and fast vs. pump and hold.
Here was my experience for what it's worth. This was just a fluid change. There's no other parts like master cylinder or brake lines or what not. You do really need a second person for this. Don't try to do it solo or with a solo setup like you see at HF.
1) Sucked old fluid out of reservoir with turkey baster (remember don't dare use it again beside brake fluid). There's a filter under the cap you'll need to rotate and pull out to get a turkey baster all the way in there. I took the plastic engine shrouding on the left off so I could see the reservoir better. The reservoir itself was quite dusty so give it a good clean before you open it.
2) Connected techstream and had a helper following the techstream prompts while I did the bleeding.
3) Techstream does the fronts first, it tells you to pump the pedal a few times & hold (did 4x and held on 5th). You then crack the bleeder screw and you better have a good hold of the plastic tubing because it wants to shoot off. About 4-6" of fluid is released and then nothing. Tighten bleeder and repeat 3-4x. There's also a note to put the cap back on the reservoir each time, i put it on so air could get in but it was on solid. In any case don't do this thing you read about putting the bottle upside down in the reservoir, that's all junk and not needed here.
4) There was some fluid down from the max line when we got done with the fronts so I refilled dutifully between each side in the front. It wasn't much, same as any other car really.
5) Now the rears. You need to prep your helper that there will be a lot of noise and calling it machine gun rattle seems about right. Under no circumstances pick your foot off the pedal after pumping and holding. It's exactly the same process as the front but the moment you open the bleeder screw the system seems to detect this and fires up a pump (which rattles and is loud) and it pumps a LOT of fluid very fast, like kitchen faucet amounts. If you didn't learn your lesson from the front and holding the tubing tight you'll be swimming in brake fluid now. I would suggest cracking open the bleeder and within a second or so close it to get a feel. There's a lot of fluid used so be careful you don't run out. It's definitely flushing the system out at this point.
Used that new Bosch fluid which comes in a quart. At the end, I was just below the max line and the bottle was all empty. So like I said, be careful on the rears and if you really want to let it go and flush away a while get two bottles. ( )
All that said, I really think it would have more or less worked just fine without techstream. You probably have to really pump a lot and fast vs. pump and hold.
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