Cold weather starting problems
01-18-18, 07:07 AM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Cold weather starting problems
So Weather in Chicago has been in the 15F to 20F this week (was down to -10 a few weeks ago but no problems then_)
This issue is happening each morning as I go to work and evening when I go home for the past few days. (temps 15-20F)
Car Battery is new from Costco two months ago (I also tried charge and maintained overnight-no affect on issue)
I start the car with a very cold engine, Ready lights come on. 10 secs in the ICE-internal combustion engine- kicks in but after 3 secs it shuts off. I get the Christmas lights on the Dash (Check Engine, Check VSC, Check Hybrid System -traction control and check engine lamps,MIL, Triangle Warning light). I put the car in drive and car moves but on electric only (MG1/2 runs and regerates per the center display, ICE stays off.) Car moves slowly and I can get up to 20 mph as it drains the traction battery fast.
I pull to the side, shutoff and restart the engine. depending on luck it would run normal or I need to restart 3-4 more times to run normal. The MIL lights remain on and Check Hybrid system remains. I plug in a code reader and It Gives P3191-Engine does not start. I clear the code and everything is normal until I start a cold engine.
I changed the oil in NOV,
2008 400h has 135k miles on it.
This issue is happening each morning as I go to work and evening when I go home for the past few days. (temps 15-20F)
Car Battery is new from Costco two months ago (I also tried charge and maintained overnight-no affect on issue)
I start the car with a very cold engine, Ready lights come on. 10 secs in the ICE-internal combustion engine- kicks in but after 3 secs it shuts off. I get the Christmas lights on the Dash (Check Engine, Check VSC, Check Hybrid System -traction control and check engine lamps,MIL, Triangle Warning light). I put the car in drive and car moves but on electric only (MG1/2 runs and regerates per the center display, ICE stays off.) Car moves slowly and I can get up to 20 mph as it drains the traction battery fast.
I pull to the side, shutoff and restart the engine. depending on luck it would run normal or I need to restart 3-4 more times to run normal. The MIL lights remain on and Check Hybrid system remains. I plug in a code reader and It Gives P3191-Engine does not start. I clear the code and everything is normal until I start a cold engine.
I changed the oil in NOV,
2008 400h has 135k miles on it.
01-18-18, 07:35 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
[QUOTE=jooksing82;10085819]So Weather in Chicago has been in the 15F to 20F this week (was down to -10 a few weeks ago but no problems then_)
This issue is happening each morning as I go to work and evening when I go home for the past few days. (temps 15-20F)
Car Battery is new from Costco two months ago (I also tried charge and maintained overnight-no affect on issue)
slI start the car with a very cold engine, Ready lights come on. 10 secs in the ICE-internal combustion engine- kicks in but after 3 secs it shuts off. I get the Christmas lights on the Dash (Check Engine, Check VSC, Check Hybrid System -traction control and check engine lamps,MIL, Triangle Warning light). I put the car in drive and car moves but on electric only (MG1/2 runs and regerates per the center display, ICE stays off.) Car moves slowly and I can get up to 20 mph as it drains the traction battery fast.
I pull to the side, shutoff and restart the engine. depending on luck it would run normal or I need to restart 3-4 more times to run normal. The MIL lights remain on and Check Hybrid system remains. I plug in a code reader and It Gives P3191-Engine does not start. I clear the code and everything is normal until I start a cold engine.
I changed the oil in NOV,
2008 400h has 135k miles on it.[/QUOTE
Water in the gas line? Put in some gas line anti-freeze. Don't let the gas tank too low on fuel which can cause condensation build up = water.
This issue is happening each morning as I go to work and evening when I go home for the past few days. (temps 15-20F)
Car Battery is new from Costco two months ago (I also tried charge and maintained overnight-no affect on issue)
slI start the car with a very cold engine, Ready lights come on. 10 secs in the ICE-internal combustion engine- kicks in but after 3 secs it shuts off. I get the Christmas lights on the Dash (Check Engine, Check VSC, Check Hybrid System -traction control and check engine lamps,MIL, Triangle Warning light). I put the car in drive and car moves but on electric only (MG1/2 runs and regerates per the center display, ICE stays off.) Car moves slowly and I can get up to 20 mph as it drains the traction battery fast.
I pull to the side, shutoff and restart the engine. depending on luck it would run normal or I need to restart 3-4 more times to run normal. The MIL lights remain on and Check Hybrid system remains. I plug in a code reader and It Gives P3191-Engine does not start. I clear the code and everything is normal until I start a cold engine.
I changed the oil in NOV,
2008 400h has 135k miles on it.[/QUOTE
Water in the gas line? Put in some gas line anti-freeze. Don't let the gas tank too low on fuel which can cause condensation build up = water.
01-18-18, 08:31 AM
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I do keep my tank filled especially in the cold weather. Not sure if ethanol helps or hampers starting but all I can get is 10% ethanol gas. Thanks for your input!
Side note
One thing interesting to note that the car ran on electric only when the gas did not run but I do not see going more than 1/2 mile before the traction battery runs out.
01-20-18, 07:25 AM
#4
1. traction battery will not run out. It's safeguarded. You simply won't be able to drive.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
01-20-18, 08:41 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
1. traction battery will not run out. It's safeguarded. You simply won't be able to drive.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
When it is very cold I step on the gas pedal once or twice B4 starting. It helps.
Or 12V battery is charged from big battery voltage stepped down and rectified power source, may be related
circuit is bad and battery is not charged well?
01-20-18, 05:28 PM
#6
Of course. if vehicle is not driven enough, 12V will not charge as there is not excess of energy stored in the traction battery. But, OP states that he had 12V charged overnight.
I'd still like to know if this happened right after 12V replacement.
I'd still like to know if this happened right after 12V replacement.
01-29-18, 03:59 PM
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
1. traction battery will not run out. It's safeguarded. You simply won't be able to drive.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
2. Did all this Christmas lights display start right after you had 12V replaced? As if they "simply replaced it" that is your cause. This is crucial piece of information.
3. If it were not 12V related - it was replaced time ago and issue came later - you have no choice but to go to dealer and have it diagnosed. This vehicle is about as complex as lunar module and bandaiding it with fuel additives will do nothing. 17 computers, I believe.
4. 2008... that's 11 yo car. Possibly traction battery going south but, again, this can be scoped only by dealer or by hybrid battery shop.
5. so far, from yrs in hybrid forums, such things are 12V dying related. That it's new means little. New goes bad. Damaged clamp. Rusted terminals. Bad ground strap on negative.
Whichever way it turns, vehicle has to be diagnosed. Starting with complete 12V/cables check.
1. I am speaking in when the gas engine is not working here and only the traction battery is moving the vehicle. My point is that the car will not get very far.
2.battery was replaced two months ago and was driving fine.
3. I want to try to figure it out before getting charged an arm and a leg.I like to try to fix it myself.
4.I don't think it's the electric side of the car. I think it's the gas engine having trouble running and the system as a whole freaks out. .
5. I will try to check out all my terminals and connections but I don't it's the cause.
Trending Topics
01-30-18, 05:57 AM
#8
Two gas tanks later and two different water remover additive and still the same problem.
1. I am speaking in when the gas engine is not working here and only the traction battery is moving the vehicle. My point is that the car will not get very far.
2.battery was replaced two months ago and was driving fine.
3. I want to try to figure it out before getting charged an arm and a leg.I like to try to fix it myself.
4.I don't think it's the electric side of the car. I think it's the gas engine having trouble running and the system as a whole freaks out. .
5. I will try to check out all my terminals and connections but I don't it's the cause.
1. I am speaking in when the gas engine is not working here and only the traction battery is moving the vehicle. My point is that the car will not get very far.
2.battery was replaced two months ago and was driving fine.
3. I want to try to figure it out before getting charged an arm and a leg.I like to try to fix it myself.
4.I don't think it's the electric side of the car. I think it's the gas engine having trouble running and the system as a whole freaks out. .
5. I will try to check out all my terminals and connections but I don't it's the cause.
2. Also check the fuses for corrosion. Clean/replace or new. I don't know which control which ones but other listers might.
3. Read this save yourself money. I only run regular in mine.
http://www.cartalk.com/content/premium-vs-regular-0
01-30-18, 07:35 PM
#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
1. Yup, I lock the car after I get out to prevent draining lights etc.
2. Good point, worth a try...
3. I figured not worth the risk... But I guess it still did not work out for me... I do use Costco gas to save quite a bit(over a dollar difference!)
Update. Car still the same this morning, today after work it barely turn the ice engine over the first three times. The traction battery drains quite fast when the ICE does not kick on. I was lucky it finally turn over and started after 7 tries. It really seems like the ice has a hard time starting on a cold start. Maybe mg1 is not turning strong enough or issues with the ICE. (suck squeeze bang blow) I will check if I over oiled KN filter, not sure how to run compression on a hybrid,not sure how to check fuel pump. maybe check my spark plugs(136k supposed to be done before I bought the car). I added .5 qt oil today cause the dip stick was on the low side. Not sure of the type of oil I have in there has any effect. I used [[b]extended] mileage Mobil 0-20 [[b]and extended filter] last oil change. (Maybe 1000 miles into it so far)
Edit [correction]
2. Good point, worth a try...
3. I figured not worth the risk... But I guess it still did not work out for me... I do use Costco gas to save quite a bit(over a dollar difference!)
Update. Car still the same this morning, today after work it barely turn the ice engine over the first three times. The traction battery drains quite fast when the ICE does not kick on. I was lucky it finally turn over and started after 7 tries. It really seems like the ice has a hard time starting on a cold start. Maybe mg1 is not turning strong enough or issues with the ICE. (suck squeeze bang blow) I will check if I over oiled KN filter, not sure how to run compression on a hybrid,not sure how to check fuel pump. maybe check my spark plugs(136k supposed to be done before I bought the car). I added .5 qt oil today cause the dip stick was on the low side. Not sure of the type of oil I have in there has any effect. I used [[b]extended] mileage Mobil 0-20 [[b]and extended filter] last oil change. (Maybe 1000 miles into it so far)
Edit [correction]
Last edited by jooksing82; 01-31-18 at 08:31 AM.
01-31-18, 06:59 AM
#10
1. Yup, I lock the car after I get out to prevent draining lights etc.
2. Good point, worth a try...
3. I figured not worth the risk... But I guess it still did not work out for me... I do use Costco gas to save quite a bit(over a dollar difference!)
Update. Car still the same this morning, today after work it barely turn the ice engine over the first three times. The traction battery drains quite fast when the ICE does not kick on. I was lucky it finally turn over and started after 7 tries. It really seems like the ice has a hard time starting on a cold start. Maybe mg1 is not turning strong enough or issues with the ICE. (suck squeeze bang blow) I will check if I over oiled KN filter, not sure how to run compression on a hybrid,not sure how to check fuel pump. maybe check my spark plugs(136k supposed to be done before I bought the car). I added .5 qt oil today cause the dip stick was on the low side. Not sure of the type of oil I have in there has any effect. I used high mileage Mobil 0-20 last oil change. (Maybe 1000 miles into it so far)
2. Good point, worth a try...
3. I figured not worth the risk... But I guess it still did not work out for me... I do use Costco gas to save quite a bit(over a dollar difference!)
Update. Car still the same this morning, today after work it barely turn the ice engine over the first three times. The traction battery drains quite fast when the ICE does not kick on. I was lucky it finally turn over and started after 7 tries. It really seems like the ice has a hard time starting on a cold start. Maybe mg1 is not turning strong enough or issues with the ICE. (suck squeeze bang blow) I will check if I over oiled KN filter, not sure how to run compression on a hybrid,not sure how to check fuel pump. maybe check my spark plugs(136k supposed to be done before I bought the car). I added .5 qt oil today cause the dip stick was on the low side. Not sure of the type of oil I have in there has any effect. I used high mileage Mobil 0-20 last oil change. (Maybe 1000 miles into it so far)
Then try this:
skycaptain Posts: 33
March 2012
Dear Cvav,
I would try an ISC reset procedure to reset the battery charging logic. I have copied the procedure from an earlier post. Here it is...
When you reset the ISC, you idle around and drain the battery until the engine comes on, then shut the car down. You turn off all accessories and climate control (nothing electronic should be on). Put the car in run mode (start it), press the brake pedal, put the car in drive, then while holding the brake pedal down, press the accelerator pedal down.
The car will not move or rev much, but the engine will be on and start charging. Keep the gas pedal down for 40 seconds, then release it for a few moments, then down again for 40 seconds and keep doing that 40 on/10 off etc until the battery is fully charged (all green) and the engine no longer charges or revs slightly when you press the gas pedal down. Of course you're holding the brake pedal down all the time while doing this.
Shut down, put your accessories back where you want them, then you can start up and go anytime. Learn about pulse driving to maximize your mileage going forward.
And this from:
Posted July 13, 2009
Lexus has a TSB regarding the ISC learning procedure. Supposedly the idle speed will be off if this is not done after the battery goes dead or is disconnected. Apparently, mileage may suffer if this is not done.___________________________________
Here's the TSB - EG010_05.pdfThe TSB says you need to hook the vehicle up to the Lexus diagnostic tester (which the dealer has and you don't) but I found a post here http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f31/400...ification-8126/that shows it can be done without the tester. The tester is needed to make sure the vehicle is 181 degrees or higher, which you can do by driving it for a decent amount of time with the engine (so no stealth driving to your destination in electric only mode - drive it like you stole it so it heats up). ___________________________________
The instructions are as follows -
This applies to the 2006 Highlander Hybrid also.
Note that you can probably perform the procedure yourself.The scan tool mentioned in the procedure checks the coolant temperature to make sure it is at full operating temperature and checks the engine loading to make sure the load is sufficient to charge the battery and finally checks the status of the ISC learning parameter. It is not necessary to monitor these parameters if you do the procedure carefully.1) Make sure the vehicle is fully warmed up. Do the procedure immediately following a long drive that runs the engine (highway speeds are best - not long gliding stealth runs at low speeds with the engine off). This will insure the coolant temp is at FULL operating temperature - it is not necessary to actually measure the coolant temperature if you warm up the engine sufficiently and don't let the engine shut down too long and cool off before doing the procedure.2) With the vehicle stopped and in drive, press firmly on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving and then step on the accelerator while watching the power meter (to the left of the speedometer). Press down on the accelerator to keep the needle between 1/2 and 3/4 up the scale. You will find that the engine management system will automatically limit the engine load no matter how far you press down on the pedal so the amount you press is not critical as long as it is either 1/2 scale or to the engine's self-limiting load value. Keep the engine loaded for a full 30 seconds but not longer than 40 seconds (this procedure brings the hybrid battery up to a maximum state of charge - if you watch the battery symbol, you willl see it tick up to a "full" display). 3) Shut off the engine and place it in park
4) Wait 5 seconds.
5) Turn the ignition key back on to display "ready"
6) make sure the A/C and heater system controls are set to off6) Lightly step on the accelerator pedal until the engine starts -then immediately take your foot off the accelerator and let the engine run until it stops by itself. This completes the procedure.
I would try an ISC reset procedure to reset the battery charging logic. I have copied the procedure from an earlier post. Here it is...
When you reset the ISC, you idle around and drain the battery until the engine comes on, then shut the car down. You turn off all accessories and climate control (nothing electronic should be on). Put the car in run mode (start it), press the brake pedal, put the car in drive, then while holding the brake pedal down, press the accelerator pedal down.
The car will not move or rev much, but the engine will be on and start charging. Keep the gas pedal down for 40 seconds, then release it for a few moments, then down again for 40 seconds and keep doing that 40 on/10 off etc until the battery is fully charged (all green) and the engine no longer charges or revs slightly when you press the gas pedal down. Of course you're holding the brake pedal down all the time while doing this.
Shut down, put your accessories back where you want them, then you can start up and go anytime. Learn about pulse driving to maximize your mileage going forward.
And this from:
- Regular Member
- 5
- 718 posts
- Lexus Model: 2006 RX400h
Posted July 13, 2009
Lexus has a TSB regarding the ISC learning procedure. Supposedly the idle speed will be off if this is not done after the battery goes dead or is disconnected. Apparently, mileage may suffer if this is not done.___________________________________
Here's the TSB - EG010_05.pdfThe TSB says you need to hook the vehicle up to the Lexus diagnostic tester (which the dealer has and you don't) but I found a post here http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f31/400...ification-8126/that shows it can be done without the tester. The tester is needed to make sure the vehicle is 181 degrees or higher, which you can do by driving it for a decent amount of time with the engine (so no stealth driving to your destination in electric only mode - drive it like you stole it so it heats up). ___________________________________
The instructions are as follows -
This applies to the 2006 Highlander Hybrid also.
Note that you can probably perform the procedure yourself.The scan tool mentioned in the procedure checks the coolant temperature to make sure it is at full operating temperature and checks the engine loading to make sure the load is sufficient to charge the battery and finally checks the status of the ISC learning parameter. It is not necessary to monitor these parameters if you do the procedure carefully.1) Make sure the vehicle is fully warmed up. Do the procedure immediately following a long drive that runs the engine (highway speeds are best - not long gliding stealth runs at low speeds with the engine off). This will insure the coolant temp is at FULL operating temperature - it is not necessary to actually measure the coolant temperature if you warm up the engine sufficiently and don't let the engine shut down too long and cool off before doing the procedure.2) With the vehicle stopped and in drive, press firmly on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving and then step on the accelerator while watching the power meter (to the left of the speedometer). Press down on the accelerator to keep the needle between 1/2 and 3/4 up the scale. You will find that the engine management system will automatically limit the engine load no matter how far you press down on the pedal so the amount you press is not critical as long as it is either 1/2 scale or to the engine's self-limiting load value. Keep the engine loaded for a full 30 seconds but not longer than 40 seconds (this procedure brings the hybrid battery up to a maximum state of charge - if you watch the battery symbol, you willl see it tick up to a "full" display). 3) Shut off the engine and place it in park
4) Wait 5 seconds.
5) Turn the ignition key back on to display "ready"
6) make sure the A/C and heater system controls are set to off6) Lightly step on the accelerator pedal until the engine starts -then immediately take your foot off the accelerator and let the engine run until it stops by itself. This completes the procedure.
Last edited by TommyTT; 01-31-18 at 07:48 AM. Reason: need more info
01-31-18, 08:53 AM
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I have the ISC reset procedure for the 400h, will try it later after the drive home. (to warm it up)
I register on the website a long time ago (credentials expired, having trouble re-registering at this point). I remember it said something to the effect "90k miles service done" with out any detail... When asking the Lexus service adviser specifically if timing belt was done' he just said.. 'oh yeah, it would mean the timing belt was done" Not the greatest confidence in him.
Digging through my files, have have a electrical map here.
I register on the website a long time ago (credentials expired, having trouble re-registering at this point). I remember it said something to the effect "90k miles service done" with out any detail... When asking the Lexus service adviser specifically if timing belt was done' he just said.. 'oh yeah, it would mean the timing belt was done" Not the greatest confidence in him.
Digging through my files, have have a electrical map here.
02-20-18, 09:25 AM
#12
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Bad thick oil
I think I found the problem.. The car started giving me more engine codes(P0300, P0301, C0700, P0000 Next set from another day P0000, P0301, C0700, P0031,C0300, P3190, P0306, ) and a low oil pressure warning came up.
After checking my oil dip stick the oil seem usually "sticky" and thick.
I warmed up my engine and drained out the oil.. It is very very THICK! Once the oil cooled in my oil catcher it thicken to a gel like consistency. See video scary!
Calling Mobil 1 and they said it can be from other contaminates mixed in (water, coolant etc..)
I will be flushing my system out with several oil changes with sea foam + Oil
Again this was Mobil 1 extended performance 0w-20 done about 1000 miles ago.
I will pressure test my coolant system to see if i have a gasket leak.
I will look into testing the oil for Coolant (http://blog.spectrosci.com/guide-to-...l-test-methods)*
*I will prob sent my jello Oil to blackstone for UOA.
After checking my oil dip stick the oil seem usually "sticky" and thick.
I warmed up my engine and drained out the oil.. It is very very THICK! Once the oil cooled in my oil catcher it thicken to a gel like consistency. See video scary!
Calling Mobil 1 and they said it can be from other contaminates mixed in (water, coolant etc..)
I will be flushing my system out with several oil changes with sea foam + Oil
Again this was Mobil 1 extended performance 0w-20 done about 1000 miles ago.
I will pressure test my coolant system to see if i have a gasket leak.
I will look into testing the oil for Coolant (http://blog.spectrosci.com/guide-to-...l-test-methods)*
*I will prob sent my jello Oil to blackstone for UOA.
Last edited by jooksing82; 02-27-18 at 07:09 AM.
02-27-18, 09:19 AM
#14
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Update
So I flushed out (new oil, drive 5 miles, and drain) with Seafoam. I let it cool and I poured off the cold oil and this is the sludge I get from the oil.(see bottom attached pic) I used a magnet and no detectable metal shavings yet! I mailed off my sludge oil for analysis yesterday. results in a week.
I am tempted to flush it out myself with some stronger solvents So far seafoam nor Marvel oil does not dissolve just by mixing it together with the sludge in the bucket. I tried kerosene and it did break it up. I will try Diesel and ATF next on the sludge. I am concern that the solvents will corrode my seal/gaskets and cause it to leak. Apparently some [crazy internet] people like to do engine flush with the above products. The running of the engine with this stuff can have accelerated wear.
Also note that engine flushes may dislodge old crud and that can jam up oil ports. But I fear that this jelly oil will eventually crust up the ports. I might open up the valve cover and drop the oil pan to take a look how much crud there is. This will give me a chance to clean up the oil pick up tube. (I read that I need to replace the seals after opening them.
I saw that pepboys advertise an engine flush service with a machine and their "special fluid". I called one location they were not confident while another location said they flush transmissions only.
I saw this vid and wonder if ican fabricate a similar contraption using an old oil filter to push the solvent not sure how they push the fluid past the oil pump.
I am taking this a bit far..I know. But I do not want to give up this vehicle!
I am tempted to flush it out myself with some stronger solvents So far seafoam nor Marvel oil does not dissolve just by mixing it together with the sludge in the bucket. I tried kerosene and it did break it up. I will try Diesel and ATF next on the sludge. I am concern that the solvents will corrode my seal/gaskets and cause it to leak. Apparently some [crazy internet] people like to do engine flush with the above products. The running of the engine with this stuff can have accelerated wear.
Also note that engine flushes may dislodge old crud and that can jam up oil ports. But I fear that this jelly oil will eventually crust up the ports. I might open up the valve cover and drop the oil pan to take a look how much crud there is. This will give me a chance to clean up the oil pick up tube. (I read that I need to replace the seals after opening them.
I saw that pepboys advertise an engine flush service with a machine and their "special fluid". I called one location they were not confident while another location said they flush transmissions only.
I saw this vid and wonder if ican fabricate a similar contraption using an old oil filter to push the solvent not sure how they push the fluid past the oil pump.
I am taking this a bit far..I know. But I do not want to give up this vehicle!
03-03-18, 08:30 PM
#15
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Opened my oil pan and valve cover.
Not looking good. Everything is coated with the goo. Kerosene works best on the sludge sample but not as solvent as I would like. (Takes scrubbing to get valve cover clean) metal shavings in my oil. A chunk of oil liver removed from my oil pan. Still waiting on oil report. I may need to dump the car