You could but I am gonna go inline on this install. This will give me lots of future options (if needed). I want to get some data on what affect this has from stock, cooler added and with/without thermostatic switch pinned open. I'm more concerned about the AT temps. I notice on generally flat land the temps stays in the 190 or so range but once you start pulling a mountain pass even locked up temperature then starts to match coolant which is around 203-208 degrees if not higher once you drop out of lockup.

The cooler zipped through customs this time in New York and made it to Seattle last night unlike the crawl switch which sat there for a while.

 

 

 

I received my AT cooler from Megazip today. It actually came last Friday but was out of town.

 

Washed rig this morning then thought I would tackle at least the staging piece of the AT cooler install.

The reason for my little shout out on F-Sport grill thread before I figured it out.. Installing the AT cooler is easiest with grill out of the way.

This was just getting the cooler mounted in front of radiator, installing the pass through connector, connecting hoses from cooler to pass through and putting some covers on the internal connectors that are not connected on the inside of engine area.

Some observations:

• I may have bought one too many hoses. The existing hose from AT to the top connection of AT cooler in radiator will probably just stay in place.

• Not sure that foam piece is actually needed. I assume it goes on the inside but didn't fit very well. I might look tomorrow and turn it around. The pass through is held in with a bolt so not sure it really does anything beneficial. You also remove the existing foam covers that cover that pass through area. I end up removing the top foam piece first and then realized my mistake that it was the bottom on that was needed for removal. Oh well.. a little extra cooling.

• I will most likely need to remove front skid to disconnect the AT return line which is replaced with this mode. In addition I think I will remove the battery to get my arms down in there to disconnect all the old hoses.

• What is left to do:
- Disconnect outlet of water cooler AT line and connect with new hose to pass through connector
- Connect new AT return line from pass through to connector at bottom of the radiator
- Account for additional fluid needed by cooler so will probably do one more drain and fill of AT fluid.

Just a few pics.

 

Great stuff! Looks relatively straight forward also...

 

It really does. I like the fact everything has been plug and play so far and all stock screw mounts are already there. They even put paint marks on the hoses which are listed in instructions and clearly show what needs to be connected to what.

 

Nice upgrade. What is the approx total cost for all the required parts?

 

Granted a 3rd party cooler would be much..much cheaper but wanted something plug and play not requiring any customizations or equipment relocations.

Minus one hose that shouldn't be needed this package cost me around $400... if one went with 3rd party cooler they could probably drop $100 off of it.

 

Nice project. $400 isn't that bad for a full OEM install. I do find it odd how Toyota/Lexus picks and chooses which parts and options to include in different markets. I can't help but feel like many of the US omissions are all about weight loss and trying eek out tenths of MPG's for gas mileage regulations.

 

I will probably make the final terminating connections next week. I want to get one more solid temperature baseline without it with OBD Link to my cabin.

In addition to stats installed I want to see the further influence of pinning AT thermostatic switch open.

 

Finished this project today and did my 4th AT drain and fill. This was to also ensure I was at correct quantity with cooler in place.

- Stock hose from AT to radiator can stay. I need to update parts list on first post.

- If KDSS shock wasn't there it would be far easier to get your hand in this area.

- You will need to cut a rubber piece that hold the inlet/outlet hoses together. If you look down the AT lines you will see it. Just use a razor knife pointed outward, go slow and you will cut it.

- Need to drop the front skid. Trickiest piece was getting the hose off and on the return line below radiator. When you do put new hose back online be sure to stage the retaining clip (if using OEM) on the metal return line first as it won't slip over the entire run of hose from the top. I thought I was going to need to remove battery but I didn't have to.

- Temps of AT Pan have dropped around 20-25 degrees. Also TC probe cools down way faster. I went out and found hills to heat it up and solid 20-25 degrees less. I will have comparable data the following weekend when I go over the pass again. Feeling good about this mod.

- Take your time throughout project.

- I will also report back how much further temps can drop with AT thermostat pegged open.

 

Thanks for the guide!!!!!. Definitely something to consider if you're towing

 

I pinned the thermostat open today and put it through some good hill climbs.... extremely short TC temp spikes up to maybe 205°F that rapidly cooled off. I couldn't get the pan temp to go over 187°F

Might even be too cool for winter with that thermostat open but summertime towing this would address any of my AT temp concerns.

Also seemingly more cooling at stopped idle where I assume the fan clutch is engaged and it is pulling extra air through on the cooler.

 

Nice! Way to take one for the team...lol. Looking to do the same upgrade now. Just need a correct parts list of what you actually used.