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GX460 2010 rust under car

 
Old 03-24-19, 10:54 AM
  #1  
ivy
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Default GX460 2010 rust under car

Hello everyone,
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger and join the lexus family.

It's a GX460 2011, 110K miles. Great condition outside and in.

And this is how it looks underneath:














I hear various things from different people. E.g that this is normal for NE or this is too much.

BTW, the two bolts that are near the very top of the tailgate and are visible when you lift the rear glass are also corroded. I was wondering how is this possible, since there are no ways that water can reach that part.

What should I tell to the dealer? Is there something they can do about it? Should I worry?

Forget this truck?

Thank you!
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Old 03-24-19, 12:01 PM
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Acrad35751
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I'd personally pass but that is just me. That being said I have seen far worse and most of this would probably be not to hard to clean up. The skid plate is removable and replaceable so I wouldn't even factor that part in. I'm no rust expert by any means so will leave that for others to comment. My '12 came out of southern California so it was really rust free.
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Old 03-24-19, 12:08 PM
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The rear bolts are outside of the weather strip so they do get wet. Some links to look over if you have not seen them.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...x-460-a-5.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...nge-bolts.html
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Old 03-24-19, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Acrad35751 View Post
I'd personally pass but that is just me. That being said I have seen far worse and most of this would probably be not to hard to clean up. The skid plate is removable and replaceable so I wouldn't even factor that part in. I'm no rust expert by any means so will leave that for others to comment. My '12 came out of southern California so it was really rust free.
Thanks. I like how the car looks inside & out, so my number one goal is to understand whether it might put me into trouble down the road. I'm originally from a rust free region, so my only experience until now, was rust (even a little bit) = avoid. However, here in the NE it's a fact of life. I can't estimate though where the line is.
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Old 03-24-19, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tecman View Post
The rear bolts are outside of the weather strip so they do get wet. Some links to look over if you have not seen them.l
Thanks tecman. They're really useful. Do you believe I could ask the dealer to change the hinges or do something about it (as well as for the rust underneath)?

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Old 03-24-19, 01:17 PM
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Guess it depends on the dealer and profit margin. Being that you are looking for an older GX I would think there are better options out there without this concern.
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Old 03-24-19, 03:44 PM
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Not an expert on the rust subject. But judging from PM's signature, assumed the GX is from the Northeast region (up New England area), with the harsh winters for all those years, that looks just about right to me.
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Old 03-24-19, 04:07 PM
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Looks similar to my 2012 with about 90k. Midwest vehicle since new, winter road salt can do that.
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Old 03-24-19, 04:10 PM
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not an expert on rust, but once I see rust on a BOF, its smart to just move on. For example the skid plate is removable, but with such rusty bolts, I bet any torque will sheer those bolts right off, and present its own set of problems. Dealers can be asked to fix the rust, but knowing that this vehicle is on the NE, they`ll probably state that almost all vehicles here have some level of rust as normal. But cannot say the dealer might fix it, worst is you can try.
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Old 03-24-19, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by coolsaber View Post
not an expert on rust, but once I see rust on a BOF, its smart to just move on. For example the skid plate is removable, but with such rusty bolts, I bet any torque will sheer those bolts right off, and present its own set of problems. Dealers can be asked to fix the rust, but knowing that this vehicle is on the NE, they`ll probably state that almost all vehicles here have some level of rust as normal. But cannot say the dealer might fix it, worst is you can try.
did happen on mine. sheared 2 of the bolts removing the plate to do the oil change. then had to cut the bolts, grind the nuts, reweld, paint, etc.
wasnt a big deal for me since i have the tools, but made me wonder about the shop actually removing the oil filter in the past.

care when fixing rust. some approaches can actually make it worse with trapped moisture under a coating, chemical reaction to certain coatings, etc.
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Old 03-24-19, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by John00 View Post
did happen on mine. sheared 2 of the bolts removing the plate to do the oil change. then had to cut the bolts, grind the nuts, reweld, paint, etc.
wasnt a big deal for me since i have the tools, but made me wonder about the shop actually removing the oil filter in the past.

care when fixing rust. some approaches can actually make it worse with trapped moisture under a coating, chemical reaction to certain coatings, etc.
Side note:
It happens when you dont understand rust, but are in a rush to cure it. If you see it visibly, wire wheel it off or use a rust converter. Once there you can apply a film of rust inhibitor. Worst thing you can do is just spray paint ontop of rust, effectively sealing in the moisture to continue to do more damage or use bedliner to cover up the rust.
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Old 03-24-19, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by John00 View Post
Looks similar to my 2012 with about 90k. Midwest vehicle since new, winter road salt can do that.
Thanks. It's good to know that it's not an outlier for the model/year/region combo. That would make it a bit tougher to pressure the dealer though but also lower my expectations on what I should expect to find.

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Old 03-24-19, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by coolsaber View Post
Side note:
It happens when you dont understand rust, but are in a rush to cure it. If you see it visibly, wire wheel it off or use a rust converter. Once there you can apply a film of rust inhibitor. Worst thing you can do is just spray paint ontop of rust, effectively sealing in the moisture to continue to do more damage or use bedliner to cover up the rust.
I came to a similar conclusion after reading as much as possible about rust, since I have 0 real world experience. Unfortunately, many of the body shop web pages I visited focus on covering the problem (with various plastic coats, paints, etc). On the contrary, most of the car enthusiasts and DIYers go the rust converter way, which seems quite more logical.
That said, there are also DIYers that don't seem to be doing it properly imho but they are usually the minority
The cost for the DIY way is also quite low. Needs a bit of time to do it properly (clean, wheel/converter, etc) but the cost is not a big deal.
Unfortunately, lifting the car might be a roadblock for me. So DIY is probably not feasible.
So the question is, should I buy, and if the dealer doesn't accept to do anything, how much would you expect it to cost to get the rust treated properly?

Last edited by ivy; 03-24-19 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 03-24-19, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ivy View Post
So the question is, should I buy, and if the dealer doesn't accept to do anything, how much would you expect it to cost to get the rust treated properly?
I donít recall seeing any post here regarding cost for rust treatment and I would question the warranty if done.

Do you really want this GX and canít find anything else like it?
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Old 03-24-19, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tecman View Post

I donít recall seeing any post here regarding cost for rust treatment and I would question the warranty if done.

Do you really want this GX and canít find anything else like it?
That's a good question.
This is the situation:
There are not that many available in ~150M radius. A new one shows up every 10-20 days, which is not half bad.
There is no rush.
All I've seen had something serious until now.
E.g. no service records (or with huge gaps), serious interior issues or problems during the test drive/visit.
I didn't really care about this one (it has more miles than my target, which was 80-90 and it's base trim), until the visit.
It's 110K miles but quite meticulously serviced in Lexus dealerships, was certified by Lexus at around 60K miles. The exterior is almost mint and interior is one of the best I've seen.
Price-wise is below 20K, which is also less than what I've expected to pay.
So, if rust wasn't there I would consider it a rather nice one. As I mentioned, I'm not familiar with rust.
I'm trying to understand if this is a no-go, something fixable or something negligible.
If I have to fix it, is it something expensive? Will it change the budget significantly?
I don't have the skills to assess it.
That's why I've asked for help from the Lexus family.
I'm really grateful to you and everyone here for taking the time to share your experience.
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