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The Continental or Contitech belt (both names on the packaging) is actually a Mitsuboshi belt. For me, that is OEM equivalent at a fraction of the OEM price. Will be installing it tomorrow.
I like that it also has the date of manufacture on it. I'll compare it to the old belt once it is off the car and see what markings, if any, the stock one has.
Curious to hear how this goes for you.... if work is as expected.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Romanova
The Continental or Contitech belt (both names on the packaging) is actually a Mitsuboshi belt. For me, that is OEM equivalent at a fraction of the OEM price. Will be installing it tomorrow.
I like that it also has the date of manufacture on it. I'll compare it to the old belt once it is off the car and see what markings, if any, the stock one has.
If you remove the fan, there’s plenty of room. I didn’t do the work but gave it to a friend when replacing the waterpump.
I didn’t recall it took that long either. The old belt looked really good at 45k miles, no strays or micro cracks. It could be passed as new.
Hmm, this part has been replaced with a new part..
Curious as to why the OEM part number change. Different vendor used now? And if so, is it proven to be as reliable as the original belt that has been time tested with no failures (that I know of)?
What a job. A real pain in the butt. It is doable, but the space is so tight and the video from the Tundra is misleading as you won't have even a fraction of the space. Between the front sway bar and a few AC lines, it is difficult to place the breaker bar on the tensioner, more difficult to put the 5mm allen into the hole, and almost impossible to back the tension off when you're done to remove the 5mm allen. It might be easier if you remove the fan. Anyways, it is doable and trust me, if I can do it, you certainly can do it. Took about 45 minutes total and I found that feeding the belt up from the bottom was the easiest, then seating it on the items on the driver's side first and then working towards the passenger side. To take the tension off, I was unable to reuse my breaker bar, it simply wasn't going to work. I used a smaller ratchet that ended up getting stuck and required me to use a pry bar to knock it off of the socket.
Anyways, all done. Fired right up, no squeals, and everything works as it should. The belt that was on it which I assume was the original OEM had no markings at all, though it didn't have any cracks either. If I still have this rig the next time it needs a belt, I'll pay someone to do it as it will need the tensioner at that time and I think that would suck to try and remove simply because the space is so stinkin' tight.
And yes, I know it should be the other way so the text isn't upside down... I wasn't about to go back and fix it.
I would say to maybe use a shorter piece of 5mm stock. I tried a T-Handle HF 5mm allen and it was too long. The other L style one I used worked great but I could have probably used the original 1/2" breaker bar if it had been shorter. Cutting it down at least in half would probably work wonders. Or even the set used in the Tundra video might have made my outcome a little less frustrating but still, it would have sucked.
I'm not sure if it would be any different for non-KDSS GXs... you might manage to have a bit more room? The AC lines (maybe for the rear which is why the Tundra doesn't have them in the way?) have a bit of flex, but not much.
If anyone attempts this job in the future and has problems or needs further suggestions, feel free to ask. The feeling of satisfaction on doing a job like this always makes it worthwhile!
Thanks for the recommendation! have you tried www.mrosupply.com ? I was searching and came across this one, so far they seem to have reasonable prices.
03-22-19, 01:32 PM
