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Curious about this. It does make sense in my head, but wondering exactly why. Is it better to drop a gear? Is it bc there's less strain on the transmission if the engine is revving higher and not "lugging" in OD?
I'm not transmission expert but usually not possible to keep transmission locked up on a steep grade towing a heavy load. This generates a ton of heat. Easy to see with something like OBD Fusion. As mentioned an external cooler is highly recommended.
I'm new here. I'm looking to replace the Neutral Safety Switch on my 2013 GX460. The current part number is 84540-35060. It is quite expensive and difficult to locate. Lexus online states that it is the replacement part that is required. There is another part 84540-60050 that is less expensive and many part sites claim it will fit. My GX is a URJ150L-GKTHKA model. Has anyone else replaced it with the 60050?
I recently purchased a 2010 GX 460, 128k miles, great dealer records and 1-owner in FL. Interior and exterior are great, everything checked out minus some cheap tires and maintenance getting a little spotty towards the end of ownership. Just the other day I got the trio of Xmas lights on the dash and my code reader tells me it's a P2714 "Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance/Stuck Off". I didn't find any threads related to this topic in here, just some scant details on the FJ forums and other Lexus sections. It's going to my local mechanic tomorrow, wondering if we should try a transmission flush first? Maybe that will clear out some crud in the actuator? Or if this solenoid is external so we should try replacing? I would imagine the R&R, if internal, is not cheap.
Truck shifts fine and goes through all the gears, so can't be anything too bad (yet), but parked it just to be safe. The FSM I saw in the FJ forum lists a series of steps to test, opening and closing the actuators to pinpoint the issue, so hoping my independent has the proper scan tools.
"P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid 'D' Circuit Performance - Automatic Transmission
Possible CausesSetting Conditions
Transmission has internal problems (e.g., in the clutch, brake or gears)
Valve body is blocked
Shift solenoid (SLT) is stuck "open" or stuck "closed"
Engine running; ECT signal more than 104ºF, gear selector in Drive, and the PCM detected a malfunction on the SLT "on" side according to the revolution difference of the turbine and output shaft along with the oil pressure input. The linear solenoid valve (SLT) controls the transmission line pressure for smooth transmission operation based on signals from the TP sensor and vehicle speed sensor. The PCM adjusts the duty cycle of the SLT solenoid valve to control hydraulic line pressure from the primary regulator valve. Appropriate line pressure assures smooth shifting with varying engine outputs."
You can try with a fluid change and see but it looks like the solenoid probably needs to be replaced.
Thanks for posting bbqsoup, I saw a lot of similar materials in my research as well. Just dropped it off at my independent mechanic (former Lexus dealer tech) and he said that typically, when it throws the code for solenoid it is a short in the circuit. He is going to drop the pan to access the valve bodies and let me know what needs to happen, so will keep everyone here posted.
I am chalking it up to it sitting on a Maserati/Alfa Romeo dealership lot for too long and catching something lol.
Just got off the phone with him and he said both solenoids are inoperable and he is recommending replacing the entire valve body. Quote to R&R is $2600! He said he has rarely seen them fail on GXes and LXes, but has seen it on LSes.
Called the dealer to see if they will offer any goodwill, specifically I recommended me paying for the part (looks to be about $800 online) and them doing the labor, so we'll see what they say. Either way will take a week or two to get the part, so glad I haven't sold my old daily yet.
Just hoping once we get through this it will give me mile and miles of trouble-free driving.
Great info Acrad, thanks for posting. My independent did tell me straight up that they have a transmission guy they would source this out to in the event I decide to have it performed.
Just an update, the dealers asked that I bring it by Friday so his Service Manager could take a look. Left it there over the weekend and he said he saw a bunch of codes in his reader, leading him to believe that the battery may have been unplugged (leading to it throwing so many random codes). He reset and drove it for about 15 miles and it shifted fine and didn't throw any new lights, so going to pick it up today and drive it to see how it goes.
Honestly it shifted crisply (and through all gears) the entire time for me as well, nothing seemed awry to me besides the CEL, so willing to see if it was a fluke. If not, I'll probably take it to my trusted guy, get it fixed, and move on with a well-sorted truck.
Update: In the end the CEL reared it's ugly head again, about 200 miles after picking it back up from the dealer. Took it to my mechanic and had the valve body replaced, so hoping this fixes any potential issues. Have only put ~100 miles on it since picking it up, so fingers crossed.
