GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) Discussion topics related to the 2010 + GX460 models

Dash lights, trouble codes issue 2013 GX

Old 08-06-18, 08:32 AM
  #16  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

I spent some time on this over the weekend. The FSM provides 4 primary causes for the trouble code.
1. Sensor is bad
2. ABS rear axle wire is bad
3. Wire from rear ABS to ECU is bad
4. Skid Control ECU is bad

I think I've ruled out #1. I ran several tests driving around with Techstream hooked up, and running data tests on the speed sensor output vs. speedometer output, and the sensors (I checked both rears) tested fine. #4 seems unlikely, as the test procedure involves testing the GX at speed, and causing the DTC to trigger. In my case, it often triggers when I fire up the ignition in the garage without any motion.

So I'm closer to thinking its #2. The FSM provides guidance to run some resistance tests, which I did. I don't fully trust my test results, but I saw some odd resistance numbers in the wire test. That's the next step at this point.
Old 08-06-18, 08:37 AM
  #17  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

The rear ABS speed sensor wire part number is 89516-60300. It covers both wheels on the rear axle, and to a harness that mounts and in front of the rear diff. It is common between the GX, 4Runner, FJCruiser and some Tacoma models. Runs around $100 from the dealer.
Old 08-06-18, 04:00 PM
  #18  
SteveInCal
Driver
 
SteveInCal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 85
Received 22 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Sounds like you've already ruled out the speed sensors, but here's a quick question.

Are the speed sensors interchangeable? If so, could you reinstall the original sensors on opposite sides? If the sensors are ok, the error won't switch sides.

Just a thought. Good luck and keep everyone posted.
Old 08-06-18, 05:20 PM
  #19  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SteveInCal
Sounds like you've already ruled out the speed sensors, but here's a quick question.

Are the speed sensors interchangeable? If so, could you reinstall the original sensors on opposite sides? If the sensors are ok, the error won't switch sides.

Just a thought. Good luck and keep everyone posted.
Unfortunately they are not. The plug and bolt hole are oriented differently on each side.

I'm not convinced yet its the wire, since there was no stretching, the harness were clean and uncorroded, and there was no evidence of something cutting into the insulator. Hopefully it is though...

Old 08-17-18, 03:07 PM
  #20  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

I've been slow to update this issue because the dash lights and codes have been intermittent. I wasn't confident that the problem was solved just because I hadn't seen it for a few days. I received the rear ABS wire from Toyota/Lexus about 1.5 weeks ago. It comes as a complete kit: wire with two black harnesses for the wheel sensors, and the white harness where it joins the main wires heading toward the ECU. It's got all the little plastic clips that mount it to the axle, and the two steel supports that hold the wires above the rear axle where the white plug connects.




Dropping the spare tire, and jacking up the frame gives much more room to work above the rear axle to replace the wire. You don't have to remove the tires, but it makes life easier if you do. Otherwise, it's a matter of unplugging both black plugs at the wheel sensor, and the white plug above the center of rear axle. Most of the little plastic clips that hold the wire to the axle are easy to push out from behind, but if not, the existing ones are reusable. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pop the cover off and slide the wire out.

I unplugged the battery (negative terminal) during the change, and once I was done I plugged it back in and erased the DTC (C1408) using Techstream. It's been about 1 week since the swap and we haven't seen the dash light show reappear with mostly just around town driving. I'm cautiously optimistic....

Given the troubleshooting steps and information I read, it makes the most sense that the ABS wire was the failure point, but after inspecting the old one I removed, I see nothing wrong with it. Clean harnesses, and no exposed wire that I could see.

Obviously I'll keep an eye on it and update this thread if the problem comes back, but at this point it's appearing that replacing the rear ABS wire fixed the problem.

Last edited by Jacket; 08-17-18 at 03:14 PM.
Old 08-17-18, 04:42 PM
  #21  
Acrad
Super Moderator
 
Acrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 8,922
Received 3,553 Likes on 2,327 Posts
Default

Thanks for update. I was just thinking about your issue today. If this doesn't work for some reason do you think it is the replacement 3rd party sensor?
Old 08-17-18, 08:14 PM
  #22  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

The tests I ran showed the sensor to be working fine - at least when I ran the tests. The other possibility is the ECU. Hoping it’s not that.
Old 09-04-18, 10:56 AM
  #23  
Jacket
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Jacket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 443
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

Nearly a full month without a recurrence, so I'm putting this issue to bed. Still no visual evidence of a root cause of the short on the old wire, so I can't say for sure how it may have happened.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (09-04-18)
Old 09-04-18, 02:18 PM
  #24  
Acrad
Super Moderator
 
Acrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 8,922
Received 3,553 Likes on 2,327 Posts
Default

Good to here it hasn't re-occurred but always unnerving when root cause isn't found.
Old 09-13-18, 11:20 AM
  #25  
Alainmak
Driver School Candidate
 
Alainmak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Congo Republic
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default DTC codes on Lexus GX 460 Year 2011

Hi,

Please, I own a Lexus GX 460 Year 2011, Utltra Premium with Natvigation System,
My wheels are becoming very hot (all the fours wheel after driving even 8 Km only. Then; I used a DTC tool and obtain the follwing outcomes:

- DTC code C 1 256 and DTC1 452, both with description "Accumulator Low Pressure"
- DTC code P1 605 (Rough Idling)

Please, could you advise what does these trouble codes mean and what are parts which don't work properly?
Old 09-13-18, 11:55 AM
  #26  
bbqsoup
Racer
 
bbqsoup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,734
Received 596 Likes on 422 Posts
Default

It could be related to Brake Booster Pump motor or ABS. The fact that all 4 were hot means there may be pads dragging on the rotors. How does the brake feel?

Found some info on the C1256 code
https://st.club-lexus.ru/attach/u/b3f78533.pdf

Some thread on CL - these code are the same across most Toyota so one model can apply to the other
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...and-c1256.html

SImilar on Ih8mud
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/c12...ndings.745665/

Some guy was able to clean C1452 by bleeding the brakes on the Prado
https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...ror-code-c1452

Good luck but if it's the booster motor, it can be expensive
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (09-13-18)
Old 09-17-18, 02:46 AM
  #27  
Alainmak
Driver School Candidate
 
Alainmak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Congo Republic
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default DTC codes on Lexus GX 460 Year 2011

Thanks a lot for your help. I can easily agree with you.
I think it can be the brake booster accumulator instead of brake booster pump as, accumulator is stated into the trouble description.
I will see with the technician.

The brake seems normal.

once again, many thanks.
Old 01-21-19, 11:19 AM
  #28  
ROSCOGX470
Instructor
 
ROSCOGX470's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: BOSTON,MA
Posts: 1,038
Received 99 Likes on 71 Posts
Default Can icy cold weather trigger ABS,CHECK, TRACTION and BRAKE lights to illuminate?

Woke up to frigid 3 degree icy morning here in Boston and remote started my truck, I entered a warmed up truck only to find the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Abs, check, traction and brake lights on while 4 LO is blinking. I drove around for 5 mins hoping it would reset but not yet. It was fine the night before so it must be weather/temperature related right? Anybody else have this happen?
Old 01-21-19, 11:22 AM
  #29  
konc3pt
Driver
 
konc3pt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: From Oakland to Sactown, the Bay Area & backdown
Posts: 119
Received 19 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Get yourself obd scanner of some sort and see what codes it's throwing, it's a guess game otherwise.
Old 01-21-19, 11:52 AM
  #30  
Acrad
Super Moderator
 
Acrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 8,922
Received 3,553 Likes on 2,327 Posts
Default

Does truck run fine performance-wise? It still could be but at first I thought it was the air pump/valve issue.

If general OBD doesn't find codes you will want to check with Techstream or something like OBD Fusion with model year specific add-on pack.

EDIT: How fast did you go? I thought limp mode kicks in above 35 or 40 MPH?

Last edited by Acrad; 01-21-19 at 11:56 AM.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Dash lights, trouble codes issue 2013 GX



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:01 PM.