When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I replaced my high beams with these (http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/l...hts/micro.html) got in on the sale and they fit all inside the dust cover no problem and match the output of the stock LED headlights (and they are bright!)
I replaced my high beams with these (http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/l...hts/micro.html) got in on the sale and they fit all inside the dust cover no problem and match the output of the stock LED headlights (and they are bright!)
nice what year is your GX and on the link what size or model did you pick bcz there’s a lot of them with different sizes
I have designed retrofit lighting systems and circuits for Toyota and Lexus and have developed and implemented LED solutions in many applications. I'll add some info maybe it will be helpful.
I tried to add pics but it appears I was not successful. Third times a charm. Edge, no, Chrome, no, Opera, yes.
For flicker, there are different reasons. The main two are undervoltage and overheating. Undervoltage happens because the DRL circuit puts the high bulbs in series thus giving each only 6 VDC. Overheating is when the thermal transfer isn't sufficient from the back of the COB. Undervoltage usually affects an entire COB or multiple COBs while overheating usually affects rows of emitters. Use a welding filter (the green dark glass) to look at the COB. If only one row is flickering you can't tell with a naked eye. Fluctuating voltage within spec range could cause flickering but it is unlikely unless there's some other system problem, the battery usually provides plenty of capacitance to level system voltage with a properly functioning voltage regulator.
The easiest solution to undervoltage is to disable the DRL and then you get the highs on as normal. The DRL function can be moved with a switchback in the signal locations. These can also be used in the rear signal locations to increase the white reverse light.
For LED highs, an optimal design for aftermarket use is one with adjustable focus (length) and 3 sides of COB. Second is a 3 sided COB implementation without focus.
Without focus ability the light is usually less focused, lighting up a larger area (ideal for country driving as there is more light dispersion to the sides). Changing the focal point centers the light more directly in front of the vehicle onto the road. COB based claimed values usually use 100 lumens per watt. Emitters are the dots in the yellow part of the COB.
When choosing, I recommend a design that uses screws to hold the COB to the heatsink. A screwless design adhesive/compound will degrade (know Arrhenius?) See above for failure.
A 6000k LED is only outputting 6000k with certain conditions. Increasing the voltage thus current will drop the color temp, so an overvoltaged 6000k will emit the color of a 5000k at spec color temp. This is what causes matching problems. An easy way to check match is in reflections from darker materials, like the back of a truck (the tailgate).
Mine is a 2012GX. The high LED is brighter than the HID. The HID is a Philips 6000k Ultinon, very nice cutoff. The small light above the HID low beam is LED. Fogs are LED Optix 80W 8000 lumens 3 COB non focusable. Highs are LED Stark 90W 9000 lumens 3 COB non focusable.
Lows, fogs
highs, lows, fogs
Maybe I'll take long distance shots if wanted, or the back view. This was to show the dispersion. One more edit: Because I have the fogs on along with the highs, the dispersion difference noticed in these pics is up and down instead of to the sides. The LED dispersion difference between just the halogen highs and the LED highs without the HID and without the fogs would be noticeable on the sides also.
Been thinking of making a 160W LED.
Last edited by John00; 10-11-18 at 08:14 PM.
Reason: pics and note
what size did you buy? And how did u install them exactly I saw on the forum people talking about some type of rubber gasket
The Amazon link that I have provide in the post are the bulbs that I am using. It just twisted in place as OEM bulb (H8?) However, due to the size of driver and fan at the end of the bulb, the OEM dust cover will not fit. I just bought a pair of universal rubber dust cover from Amazon, everything worked just fine.
How do you like those? Aren't those the new VLED models? I've been thinking about getting those myself.
Yes, they are the latest model from VLED as I specifically wanted it to fit within the dust cover and not modify anything with that. They work great, are super bright. I have taken them on my normal long trips to Mammoth on super dark nights and they light it up very well. I like them.
Yes, they are the latest model from VLED as I specifically wanted it to fit within the dust cover and not modify anything with that. They work great, are super bright. I have taken them on my normal long trips to Mammoth on super dark nights and they light it up very well. I like them.
They work well for me, will be interested to see what you think
Will do... wish they would have sent them to me USPS as I would have them no later than Saturday. They sent Fedex 2 day and showing an ETA of Tuesday... funny because they are only like 50 miles north of me
I'm getting the high beam set. I gave up waiting for their kit they purport to working with low voltage DRL & flicker. I don't use the DRLs now but generally drive with my headlights on anyway.
03-06-18, 02:33 PM
They work well for me, will be interested to see what you think
