Chassis Lubrication / Grease - Propeller Shaft / Spiders & Slide Yoke / Zerks
#16
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I didn't want to take any chances on the yokes. Good to know on the overflow.
Since you were just under there do you remember how close the shaft zerks were to the u-joint ones? ObsidianBl had a question about placement with diagram above. I did mine last year and can't remember exactly.
Acrad, thanks for posting.
i actually started the process this past weekend. I was underneath (checking a different issue, the leaning) and saw the zerks lined up on the rear drive shaft so I went ahead and greased them with the valvoline synthetic grease (what several forums on the 100 series recommend).
i did not over grease like it is recommended on the 100 series (to help with a “clunk” on most cruisers). I couldn’t believe it myself but it actually worked. From this I did learn that the shaft zerk (not the u joints) have an overflow so if you overfil them they will release grease so I don’t think a vibration would start from that.
Def stick to a moly synthetic grease and you’ll be alright. Don’t think oem is necessary just don’t go with a non syn grease as they simply just don’t last a long time.
the below is for the 100 series and only for FYI
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the...thread.401590/
Since you were just under there do you remember how close the shaft zerks were to the u-joint ones? ObsidianBl had a question about placement with diagram above. I did mine last year and can't remember exactly.
Acrad, thanks for posting.
i actually started the process this past weekend. I was underneath (checking a different issue, the leaning) and saw the zerks lined up on the rear drive shaft so I went ahead and greased them with the valvoline synthetic grease (what several forums on the 100 series recommend).
i did not over grease like it is recommended on the 100 series (to help with a “clunk” on most cruisers). I couldn’t believe it myself but it actually worked. From this I did learn that the shaft zerk (not the u joints) have an overflow so if you overfil them they will release grease so I don’t think a vibration would start from that.
Def stick to a moly synthetic grease and you’ll be alright. Don’t think oem is necessary just don’t go with a non syn grease as they simply just don’t last a long time.
the below is for the 100 series and only for FYI
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the...thread.401590/
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ObsidianBl (06-21-18)
#17
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I do think those that take their vehicles in for service should also bring along their owner's manuals with bookmarked page on need for greased zerks. I'd even ask afterward how many zerks the mechanic greased. They could always lie but you know the answer is 6.
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2014LexusG (09-24-21)
#18
They two zerks are about 2-3 inches apart. The below chart is very comparable except on the GX (vs 100 series) the front shaft is on the left side of the vehicle and covered by some plates which makes it slightly harder to reach the zerks but not impossible.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments...001-jpg.10430/[img]blob:https://www.clublexus.com/25cdda44-02ae-403c-a416-3e11e9c8906e[/img]
Acrad, thanks for posting.
i actually started the process this past weekend. I was underneath (checking a different issue, the leaning) and saw the zerks lined up on the rear drive shaft so I went ahead and greased them with the valvoline synthetic grease (what several forums on the 100 series recommend).
i did not over grease like it is recommended on the 100 series (to help with a “clunk” on most cruisers). I couldn’t believe it myself but it actually worked. From this I did learn that the shaft zerk (not the u joints) have an overflow so if you overfil them they will release grease so I don’t think a vibration would start from that.
Def stick to a moly synthetic grease and you’ll be alright. Don’t think oem is necessary just don’t go with a non syn grease as they simply just don’t last a long time.
the below is for the 100 series and only for FYI
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the...thread.401590/
The following 2 users liked this post by caesosa:
Acrad (06-21-18),
ObsidianBl (06-21-18)
#19
So just had 30K service, but wondering if driveshaft re torquing and greasing was done. If I pump some grease into the easy rear spyder, and clean grease comes out, can I assume they did the others and re torqued the driveshafts? And vice versa? Can't believe while they were there they would do it all....or do none of it.
#20
Intermediate
I suspect the addition of using moly grease for the slip yokes is in response to the numerous clunking issues Toyota has had with the rear drive shaft. Moly grease will help reduce the high friction/high pressure issues in that part of the shaft. Any grease is better than no grease, but moly grease will be better in the forces experienced in the yoke.
The following 3 users liked this post by Jacket:
#21
Driver School Candidate
Spline shaft lubrication
Proud owner of a new to me 2012 GX with 94k miles. Over the weekend I was changing the oil and thought I should grease the drive shafts. I had read here that it is a point that is often missed. Sure enough, the paint was still on the zerks on the 4 u-joints. But I didn't find any lube point for the two spline shaft slides. Am I missing something or did Toyota remove them from the shafts?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#22
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thank you; I went back under and found the 2 spline zerks. They weren't where I was expecting them; they are a tiny little nub at the base of the u-joint yoke. I guess I expected them to be farther down the shaft on the sleeve that slides over the spline. Anyway, I got them and it's the first grease that they've seen since the truck was built. A reminder to all, service stations don't do the "lube" part of oil change and lube job anymore. I wonder do the dealerships even have a grease gun?
#24
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Mine hadn't been touched either and previous owner's Lexus dealer record showed it was done at 30K miles. I bought mine at 34K miles.
#25
Driver School Candidate
Getting ready to lube my zerks; I've dropped engines before but never lubed a driveline. ; )
I saw this article on BobIsTheOilGuy about someone with a 06' 4WD Tundra contemplating if there was something "out there: that could make lubing zerks less of a PITA".
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...&Number=909767
The wisdom of the group mentioned an extension adapter: Lincoln Lubrication P/N 5855 that fits at the end of a grease gun.
I was just wondering if this adapter LL5855 was something that would make this project easier for someone doing zerk maintence on these rigs without a lift
Or if this is really uncessary on this vehicle?
Also....any thoughts in general on a brand of grease gun that does not leak? Willing to spend $$. (I'm treading into unknown waters!)
I've also come to the pending conclusion to stay away from M1 grease products for the simple reason of oil seperation. Valvoline Durablend with Moly seems to be the ticket. Apparently M1 does not have moly in it. Thoughts?
https://www.valvoline.com/en-ecuador...c-blend-grease
I saw this article on BobIsTheOilGuy about someone with a 06' 4WD Tundra contemplating if there was something "out there: that could make lubing zerks less of a PITA".
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...&Number=909767
The wisdom of the group mentioned an extension adapter: Lincoln Lubrication P/N 5855 that fits at the end of a grease gun.
I was just wondering if this adapter LL5855 was something that would make this project easier for someone doing zerk maintence on these rigs without a lift
Or if this is really uncessary on this vehicle?
Also....any thoughts in general on a brand of grease gun that does not leak? Willing to spend $$. (I'm treading into unknown waters!)
I've also come to the pending conclusion to stay away from M1 grease products for the simple reason of oil seperation. Valvoline Durablend with Moly seems to be the ticket. Apparently M1 does not have moly in it. Thoughts?
https://www.valvoline.com/en-ecuador...c-blend-grease
#26
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
This is the M1 grease I used.
https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Gre...HP-Mine-Series
"The Mobilgrease XHP™ Mine products are specifically designed for the lubrication of extra heavy-duty off-highway and mining equipment. With a complete range of NLGI Grades, this series of lithium complex greases, which contain 5% molybdenum disulfide,"
I didn't have any issues get at zerks although I did put mine up on 4 Rhino ramps. Loved to have a lift but current house won't have it.
https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Gre...HP-Mine-Series
"The Mobilgrease XHP™ Mine products are specifically designed for the lubrication of extra heavy-duty off-highway and mining equipment. With a complete range of NLGI Grades, this series of lithium complex greases, which contain 5% molybdenum disulfide,"
I didn't have any issues get at zerks although I did put mine up on 4 Rhino ramps. Loved to have a lift but current house won't have it.
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12valver (07-21-18)
#27
Driver School Candidate
I've spent the better part of the last 2 hours using my google-fu to discover US or european built grease guns at a reasonable price point. They do not exist.
It seems that 0.0% of grease guns are made here anymore. What WAS reliable and reasonably attainable in the 90's and before has gone the way of the dodo; Lincoln is out of India and Alemelite out of China with predictable uneven quality.
The closest I've come to finding something reasonable that is quality built is a line out of Australia. Macnaught with a distributor in Tampa.
10 year warranty and self serviceable (!!)
The K32 line has the pistol grip to allow you to pump while holding the flexline to the zerk. $85 + $19 shipping off Amazon as of 2018
https://www.macnaughtusa.com/wp-cont...Grease-Gun.pdf
Edit: K32 for $67 + $13.95 shipping ($81)
https://empirelubeequipment.com/prod...se-gun-k32-01/
Edit2: K32 for $55 + $18 shipping ($73)
https://www.acilube.com/mak32pigrheg.html
You can also search ebay for used out of the UK: Wanner (made in switzerland).
It seems that 0.0% of grease guns are made here anymore. What WAS reliable and reasonably attainable in the 90's and before has gone the way of the dodo; Lincoln is out of India and Alemelite out of China with predictable uneven quality.
The closest I've come to finding something reasonable that is quality built is a line out of Australia. Macnaught with a distributor in Tampa.
10 year warranty and self serviceable (!!)
The K32 line has the pistol grip to allow you to pump while holding the flexline to the zerk. $85 + $19 shipping off Amazon as of 2018
https://www.macnaughtusa.com/wp-cont...Grease-Gun.pdf
Edit: K32 for $67 + $13.95 shipping ($81)
https://empirelubeequipment.com/prod...se-gun-k32-01/
Edit2: K32 for $55 + $18 shipping ($73)
https://www.acilube.com/mak32pigrheg.html
You can also search ebay for used out of the UK: Wanner (made in switzerland).
Last edited by 12valver; 07-21-18 at 04:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (07-21-18)
#28
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Might have to look into that one when my HF cheapie gives out.
#29
Intermediate
I think it would be beneficial for many if someone shot pictures of the lubrication points. I need to do that sometimes and I already picture myself crawling under the beast and not spending a bunch of time looking for the nipples.
#30
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Biggest challenge was getting them lined up. I was surprised when I got under there and the ones I was working on were lined up and not up and out of the way. I did do it last time two different times since my moly grease hadn't arrived yet so did everything but the slip yokes on first service. I'll take pics if I remember next time I am under there. That might be a few weeks out.