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I posted on T4R.org to see what the 4runner guys are doing. Still waiting on response. I asked RCI about their thoughts on me modifying the T.C. skid plate to fit the GX. I have access to milling machines as well as other equipment, so I'd imagine I can make it fit. RCI's black Friday deal ends tomorrow, so I'll most likely pull the trigger and post up what happens when everything arrives. Its basically $1000 for RCI or $2000 for budbuilt, I rather save the 1,000 for rack or other mods!
I'm sorry, but our transfer case skid does not work with RCI skids.
Hopefully this better explains how our skid plates are designed, and some theory behind them.
Skid plates can be made very strong rather easily, yet they still need to protect what's underneath them. Unfortunately the Prado 120/150 frame engine cross-members are not the most rigid metal components. So when slamming down a 6,000+ lbs 4Runner on pointy rocks, we need to distribute that load across are much wider surface area. If not, your 3/16" skid plates will usually hold, yet the frame crossmember underneath will push inward at that attachment point.
That's why we don't do one piece front skid plates with the common 6 attachment points that cover the entire engine bay area, but rather a two piece design with 8 attachments points and a boxed load distributing reinforcement on engine crossmember #1.
Imagine all that weight of the 4Runner, coming down on the engine bay area with only 2 sq/in of surface area. That's why we provide 20 sq/in to prevent crossmember deformations.
Now because of the two piece front skid plate, we then looked at the long distance front engine crossmember #2 to the transmission crossmember. Instead of running a single plate, why not run two? So that's why the second engine skid plate travels to about halfway down the transmission pan and ends. The "trans" skid overlaps the engine skid or "mid" as we call it, and the runs to behind the transfer case, and is supported by a .250 DOM crossmember.
That design not only distributes the impact load to every factory crossmember as most skid plates do, but with our overlap design, you end up with not just 3/16" protecting the longest, most unsupported area under the truck, the transmission pan area, but with 3/8" trick metal!
Hopefully that helps, but at the end of the day, if you are out off-roading or overlanding, far away, in remote areas, any increase in protection is better than none to bring you back safely.
There are a lot of good companies out there that will help. We obviously are biased toward our armor, maybe its that engineer in us, or that hardcore wheeler side of us. So please listen to what the forum has good results with, and if you need us, we'll be here for yeah.
Seems like both companies are run by very nice people!
That has been my experience as well so far with these skid vendors.
Ended up seeing another sale at Budbuilt and went for those since I missed the black Friday sale at RCI. So $1,800 shipped for 1/4" aluminum, it was about $575 over RCI, but I assumed I'd spend half that in time messing with the RCI kit getting it fitted. Its a long wait now, probably won't see it till sometime January 2018, but I still need my roof rack and RTT before doing a Utah trip next year.
Ended up seeing another sale at Budbuilt and went for those since I missed the black Friday sale at RCI. So $1,800 shipped for 1/4" aluminum, it was about $575 over RCI, but I assumed I'd spend half that in time messing with the RCI kit getting it fitted. Its a long wait now, probably won't see it till sometime January 2018, but I still need my roof rack and RTT before doing a Utah trip next year.
EDIT: I decided to pick one of these up. instagram10 code gets you $10 off if anyone else interested. Free shipping. I think I will move my shackle up to the top spot and put the Skidmark in bottom of the Connor.
EDIT: I decided to pick one of these up. instagram10 code gets you $10 off if anyone else interested. Free shipping. I think I will move my shackle up to the top spot and put the Skidmark in bottom of the Connor.
Does that extension piece get in the way of the door swinging open?
Just a quick update for anyone looking for sliders in the future:
Hey Nick, So sorry for the delay on responding to you. When I run through the forums for messages, I didn’t catch I was logged out of Toyota-4Runner.org. Ugh...
We have cut and bent everything, just need finish up aluminum welding and it will be ready. Our aluminum welder is 72 years old, and is phenomenal, but he does work a little slower. Chip (Bud’s son) is bumping up the priority of this for you.
We changed our design of the 460s mounting design for make it even stronger, but he want to test for again before we send it out. We have a 460 available as it won’t add much more time. You’ll be getting the first of the new 460 plates.
Let me know if you have any questions and if I don’t get back to you in a day, please feel free to use budbuiltinfo@gmail.com to directly email us.
I sent to vendor just so they could add for compatibility.. if someone with a lift gets this take some pics and email vendor so they can show on their site. It fits perfectly fine with the stock Lexus hitch.
EDIT: I decided to pick one of these up. instagram10 code gets you $10 off if anyone else interested. Free shipping. I think I will move my shackle up to the top spot and put the Skidmark in bottom of the Connor.
Just a quick update for anyone looking for sliders in the future:
I'm gonna get there at some point... I think my obstacle is the discussion with the wife that the running boards are coming off and the rig may get higher off the ground. :-)
I really like where you guys are going with this thread. Would you guys do 17” inch wheels with 265/70/17 to replace the 18” 265/60/18 for this SUV if it meant a more aggressive looking rim and tire?
I'm gonna get there at some point... I think my obstacle is the discussion with the wife that the running boards are coming off and the rig may get higher off the ground. :-)
I had the same talk with the wife and got vetoed pretty quick. I lifted my last truck and put on sliders and she didn't like the height at all. Oh well, at least the stock height still work for all the dirt and forest roads I would be taking when I have a chance.
Even at stock height... my first mission is to get a plate that covers the entire gas tank as well as something that covers the transfer case. I also plan to look for something that protects CV-joint boots. Perhaps the punctured ones I've had to repair on my ATVs have motivated me toward that. Once I put CV axle plates on my ATVs I never had to repair any others.
I'd also like to get the front skid that has oil filter trap door for easier maintenance. This may result in all stock plates being replaced though.
EDIT: I am reaching out to RCI on measurements of a-arm skids. Most likely will fit but just want to confirm.
11-29-17, 03:10 PM
NO, they aren't getting back to me now, no emails or phone calls. I'll give them another week before I really get annoyed.
