"What did you do to your..." thread?
#361
Hey. The intake was fairly straightforward to install. Unbolted the stock box and this was a direct fit. There is a very slight performance gain as the engine is now pulling in colder air.
The link is: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/All-Black-Fo...53.m1438.l2649
The link is: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/All-Black-Fo...53.m1438.l2649
#362
the intakes in the GX, LX, 4runner, tundra, taco...are already drawing in cold air, from the fender well. The intake above draws in warm/hot air since it sucks air INSIDE the engine. I don't see it would help, IMHO.
#363
Super Moderator
#364
I put a Rhino Rack on, here is my experience:
The instructions are great and everything is correct until it comes time to drill (double check the measurements or make sure you drill the holes before you install the backbone). I had this shipped to my work thinking the rack came disassembled, unfortunately I was wrong, the entire rack is 1 piece. So I took the backbones home to install since I needed to detail my roof. I've not waxed or maintained the paint on this car since I bought it thinking I would return it at the end of the lease. 27k miles and the paint was grimy, so I put a few hours into cleaning the surface with clay and doing Mequiars ultimate polish + wax. It was well worth it since I won't be taking this off every wash. Getting the back bone system on is fairly simple, and can be done alone although easier with an assistant to help lift the light piece up to the roof of the truck.
http://rhino-rack-vpm.s3.amazonaws.com/Instructions/Accessories/Pioneer-Fitting-Charts/Pioneer%20Fitting%20Chart%20-%20R1206%20-%20Lexus%20GX%204dr%20SUV%20%28with%20Backbone%29%20-%204x107B.pdf
Starting on the Pioneer rack is where it gets tricky. You need to drill 4 holes into the Pioneer rack in order for it to mount up to the Backbone system. In order to get this location you need the backbone system on the floor, well too late I had it installed on the car already and wasn't going to remove it for some simple measurements. The instructions on Rhino Racks website say to measure 1,588mm (~62.52") from a fixed point on the rear of the tray (we can call this Zero). Well when you measure the backbone system mounting locations from point to point, its roughly 66". My suggestion is to use hole R1 and not hole R4 (otherwise it wont fit on the car) and then drill your holes using R1 as your zero. I called Rhino Rack for tech support and the tech guy tried telling me they installed 2 on the roof and the engineer did it himself and personally used the measurements from the instructions and they were spot on. I wasn't trying to argue or make the engineer look stupid, just making sure I wasn't doing something batshat backwards. After he gave me a 5 minute marketing pitch he finally said the measurements are not the end all and you can basically do whatever you want, for the location, just make sure the rear window doesn't hit it. I initially missed the chart below calling out the R4 location so I drilled 2 extra holes thinking the zero was at the very end. My rack sits about 1-2 inches too far forward. I'll move re-drill the holes for the bars next time I have the rack off.
Thought I'd share this to save someone else from scratching their heads or drilling extra holes. Anyways, here is the finished product. Road noise is insane with the sunroof open, tilted is maybe doable. I think the factory roof rails looked nicer, but I think this will be safer when I load it up with a roof top tent.
The instructions are great and everything is correct until it comes time to drill (double check the measurements or make sure you drill the holes before you install the backbone). I had this shipped to my work thinking the rack came disassembled, unfortunately I was wrong, the entire rack is 1 piece. So I took the backbones home to install since I needed to detail my roof. I've not waxed or maintained the paint on this car since I bought it thinking I would return it at the end of the lease. 27k miles and the paint was grimy, so I put a few hours into cleaning the surface with clay and doing Mequiars ultimate polish + wax. It was well worth it since I won't be taking this off every wash. Getting the back bone system on is fairly simple, and can be done alone although easier with an assistant to help lift the light piece up to the roof of the truck.
http://rhino-rack-vpm.s3.amazonaws.com/Instructions/Accessories/Pioneer-Fitting-Charts/Pioneer%20Fitting%20Chart%20-%20R1206%20-%20Lexus%20GX%204dr%20SUV%20%28with%20Backbone%29%20-%204x107B.pdf
Starting on the Pioneer rack is where it gets tricky. You need to drill 4 holes into the Pioneer rack in order for it to mount up to the Backbone system. In order to get this location you need the backbone system on the floor, well too late I had it installed on the car already and wasn't going to remove it for some simple measurements. The instructions on Rhino Racks website say to measure 1,588mm (~62.52") from a fixed point on the rear of the tray (we can call this Zero). Well when you measure the backbone system mounting locations from point to point, its roughly 66". My suggestion is to use hole R1 and not hole R4 (otherwise it wont fit on the car) and then drill your holes using R1 as your zero. I called Rhino Rack for tech support and the tech guy tried telling me they installed 2 on the roof and the engineer did it himself and personally used the measurements from the instructions and they were spot on. I wasn't trying to argue or make the engineer look stupid, just making sure I wasn't doing something batshat backwards. After he gave me a 5 minute marketing pitch he finally said the measurements are not the end all and you can basically do whatever you want, for the location, just make sure the rear window doesn't hit it. I initially missed the chart below calling out the R4 location so I drilled 2 extra holes thinking the zero was at the very end. My rack sits about 1-2 inches too far forward. I'll move re-drill the holes for the bars next time I have the rack off.
Thought I'd share this to save someone else from scratching their heads or drilling extra holes. Anyways, here is the finished product. Road noise is insane with the sunroof open, tilted is maybe doable. I think the factory roof rails looked nicer, but I think this will be safer when I load it up with a roof top tent.
#365
I believe I saw a user's GX460 with 20" "OEM-style" wheels on here previously. Any ideas where I saw that or if I imagined it? If not, can someone recommend a source for these?
Had a flat yesterday at 30,000 miles. 5/32 on tire tread, so I will just buy 4 new tires. If I go with simple tire replacement with no wheel change, which tires are users selecting with long wear and low road noise?
Thanks
Had a flat yesterday at 30,000 miles. 5/32 on tire tread, so I will just buy 4 new tires. If I go with simple tire replacement with no wheel change, which tires are users selecting with long wear and low road noise?
Thanks
The following users liked this post:
bbqsoup (01-02-18)
#366
Replaced the rear wiper insert. I think it was the original because it was streaking so badly and looked to have never been replaced. The replacement I ordered was a few inches too long, so I trimmed it to fit and it is working without issue. $10 well spent.
#367
Driver School Candidate
On another note, its been awhile but I finally got my set of MetalTech rock sliders on for my GX. Install is relatively straight forward aside from the driver's side. Its a two person job with all the lifting to adjust to position. Running board removal is a simple 10-15 minute job per side assuming you do not need to lift the vehicle up to fit underneath. The holes on the frame are tapped and threaded from the factory. The right side/passenger side is easy and all you have to do is line up the holes. Left side/driver side is the harder part. The KDSS metal hydraulic and pump are located on this side of the frame. In order to install the sliders, you will have to unbolt a few brackets for the lines and loosen up the pump mounted to the frame. My vehicle has been a west coast car all of its life so rust was not an issue for me during removal. After you remove the brackets, you will have to pry the lines back enough to slip the rock slider brackets under the lines. I used a smaller dog bone and pried back and had help moving the rock slider in position. Not a difficult job, just heavy lifting and lining stuff up.
#368
I believe I saw a user's GX460 with 20" "OEM-style" wheels on here previously. Any ideas where I saw that or if I imagined it? If not, can someone recommend a source for these?
Had a flat yesterday at 30,000 miles. 5/32 on tire tread, so I will just buy 4 new tires. If I go with simple tire replacement with no wheel change, which tires are users selecting with long wear and low road noise?
Thanks
Had a flat yesterday at 30,000 miles. 5/32 on tire tread, so I will just buy 4 new tires. If I go with simple tire replacement with no wheel change, which tires are users selecting with long wear and low road noise?
Thanks
Last edited by GoHuskers; 12-18-17 at 09:24 AM.
The following users liked this post:
fishnlab (12-18-17)
#369
Racer
I installed the Yakima Powderhound on stock crossbars using universal mighty mounts getting ready for the mountain . I had to cut the tighten plastic bars short to tighten it.
#371
Super Moderator
I put a Rhino Rack on, here is my experience:
....
Thought I'd share this to save someone else from scratching their heads or drilling extra holes. Anyways, here is the finished product. Road noise is insane with the sunroof open, tilted is maybe doable. I think the factory roof rails looked nicer, but I think this will be safer when I load it up with a roof top tent.
....
Thought I'd share this to save someone else from scratching their heads or drilling extra holes. Anyways, here is the finished product. Road noise is insane with the sunroof open, tilted is maybe doable. I think the factory roof rails looked nicer, but I think this will be safer when I load it up with a roof top tent.
#372
The more I watch Andrew St Pierre White's overland videos... the more I want to add a roof rack like yours and and a roof tent.
#373
Front passenger tire is steadily losing air so I finally took it off today and examined it but found no nails or anything. Took it to Discount Tire figuring the valve stem was leaking but they informed me that the chrome was flaking off the wheel and causing the tire to have a poor seal against the lip of the wheel. Well shoot.
Wasn't a big fan of the chrome OEM rims to begin with, now I have a reason to replace them. Torn between a standard set of silver OEM 6 spokes, or the F-Sport wheels. eBay has both available right now...
Wasn't a big fan of the chrome OEM rims to begin with, now I have a reason to replace them. Torn between a standard set of silver OEM 6 spokes, or the F-Sport wheels. eBay has both available right now...
#374
^^ Had the same problem on my MDX. You can put a sealer on the lip that will break down over time or use a wire wheel to smooth out the seal. Looks like you want to get new wheels anyway so just a thought.
#375
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Front passenger tire is steadily losing air so I finally took it off today and examined it but found no nails or anything. Took it to Discount Tire figuring the valve stem was leaking but they informed me that the chrome was flaking off the wheel and causing the tire to have a poor seal against the lip of the wheel. Well shoot.
Wasn't a big fan of the chrome OEM rims to begin with, now I have a reason to replace them. Torn between a standard set of silver OEM 6 spokes, or the F-Sport wheels. eBay has both available right now...
Wasn't a big fan of the chrome OEM rims to begin with, now I have a reason to replace them. Torn between a standard set of silver OEM 6 spokes, or the F-Sport wheels. eBay has both available right now...