jguillot

I bought a code reader and can now clear the P2442 code so I have some time to work on this issue. I removed the pump cover and it was all very clean and the filter is still in tact. I removed the pump and performed a bench test and it works perfectly. (Lexus insisted it was bad and wanted to charge me $1,500 just to replace a good pump)


Does anyone have any suggestions for my next step?


Should I remove the valves? Is there a way to test them?

machine323

well that code is for valves stuck open. dont remember which side off hand. i would take the tops off and see what it looks like on the underside of them. i never found any way to test them i did blow in the tube inlet and was getting air past the valve. i had lots of trash on the underside of my valves. i had a total filter sucked in though. my 2442/0 code comes back a few seconds after i clear them.

jguillot

Thanks for the input machine323. Lexus told me the price for them to fix the code (pump and valves) was almost $3k because the parts required 8 hours to change. I've never opened the hood before today and I had valves and pump out in less than 20 minutes. They are ripping people off and lying to us by saying these parts are bad without even testing. The worst part is they charged me $150 for a diagnostic test.


I would have never expected this sort of terrible services and lack of morality from such a prestigious brand.

machine323

i have my valves on order for a price tag of $466 shipped. local toyota dealer would not budge on full on retail price for the valves. they said they sell a lot of them and see no reason to go down on the price. my response was you do sell a lot because toyota made a ****ty system. my pump was fine after cleaning it out though. i am going to replace the whole valve assymbly and not just the top. doesn't look like that much more work. toyota/lexus was gouging the tundra people too until they fessed up and said they made a bum design. their problem is more of water intrusion in the pumps and it sending water throughout the system. there is a tab/lsb for the 4 runner and gx about the filter dislodging in the pump and sending it through the system. they are only supposed to change out the bad parts and not the whole system though. if changing out the entire secondary air system would take me anywhere near 8 hours i would be drunk and it would never get done. i do believe they are not owning up to the problem and are ripping people off on the parts and service.

Craigyyy

Aside from the filter itself, has anyone found any other types of debris in their pumps?

Or even for those without problems, has anyone ever seen debris stuck in the filter or filter housing?

Seems like the only debris that these pumps collect is the filter itself.

tecman

79k miles on my 460 and I had no debris in my filter.

I installed the external filter....











It can be aggravating to release all of the clips. I used screwdrivers the first time and this method maybe helpful.








This filter is a perfect fit. It slides on tight and only a few screw turns are needed.

11GX460

I, too, have been following this thread closely and would like to extend a special thanks to Machine323, for showing us a solution to the dreaded 2ndary air intake pump headache, and to Tecman for his detailed photo step-by-steps. I ordered the Uni UP-107 and will be installing it when the weather warms up here on the east coast. Total cost was $11.74, free shipping, as already mentioned. My 2011 has a little over 40k miles, but I will take a pro-active step before it becomes an issue down the road. Also, here's my contribution to this thread, a photo of the backside of the Uni UP-107 air filter. Thanks everyone.

T4Fun

excellent right up thread. Mods should make this a sticky thread.
Curious if anyone from 2014+ has this issue?

midwest2

I plan to do this MOD as well, but understand it's not a cure-all for this lousy system. The valves on the manifold can malfunction all on their own without the help of the OEM filter.

Craigyyy

Excellent. Thanks for all the helpful posts.

jtrue28

Article says 2010-2013

Hopefully they're right about it being re-designed for the 2014 model.

Jacket

If that's true, then you should be able to buy the part from Toyota for a 2014 and up truck and "upgrade" your 2010 - 2013 engine. There probably isn't a real way to find out except to buy both parts and open 'em up. Or see if there's a new/superseded part number.

Louis3

I'm glad to see this fault code discussed here! My 2010 GX just threw the code and Lexus Dallas gave me a $2600 quote to fix (secondary air injection system switching valve stuck open on bank #2). this seems quite high after referencing the photos on the post below. I am fairly skilled at repair issues but so far only on Old classic cars. In anyone's opinion is this something I can dig into and successfully fix?!! I have yet to see the car in person to reference these components. Of course this is my wife's daily driver so down time gotta be kept at a minimum!! Thank you for any feedback and direction !

bigphil001

IMO this is an extremely easy fix, the components are easy to find and replace. Lexus moved them out of the V in the engine like the Tundra engines so they are very easy to access.

Do yourself a favor and order the two replacement valves. I ended up not replacing the aluminum piece, only the valve's themselves (the replacement valves will come with the aluminum pieces).

I've been code free for about 3000 miles and countless freezing cold starts.

Louis3

Additionally ... Can anyone recommend the best Lexus or secondary parts supplier for the air pump and valves? Lexus quoted me $900 for pump and $300/400 for each valve! Hopefully I could salvage the pump.