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Unless you have the specs sheet for the filter, I would probably stick with something automotive grade. We have filters at work for some of our telecommunications equipment and if they aren't change every year, the heat makes them brittle and they disintegrate.
Started by forming the screen form Blicks around my original filter.
traced original filter and cut with small razor blade.
Hmm. this was not as easy as I thought it would be. The filter thickness and contour is difficult. I don't think it is important to be accurate with the screen added. I used the third filter and I should have used the first one due to the amateur built screen lol.
The screen from Blicks forms easily, but it is delicate and breaks easily as well. <br/>OK, I am am not comfortable with this screen. I don't want any metal particles flowing into the pump.
I then went to the second screen option. This is more difficult to deal with, but it is more durable.
Not pretty and I am not proud of this lol. I had to cram this in and I should have made it smaller. Better than nothing though...
I came across this as an option and it has the same thickness.
This is my family 3rd lexus...we used to have the LS, ES, SC series. But so far no problems. That's why we keep buying lexus. But with this model we have the same problem code 2445 after 60k miles. My family is a old time mechanic ourselves.i wonder why so many people having the problem. Even the toyota Tundra Engine have it too. And on ebay there's a guy selling the bypass module to fix it. My main concern is why don't we all call Lexus customer's service and report it...so they can bring it to the world or recall. People please report this problem to your Lexus customer's service. I call and complain but the lady said. I'm the only 5th person calling from Florida. We need to bring this issue to the news people
I have a 2011 Lexus GX 460 with 57k miles. (Also a 2014 Toyota Tundra) Till this point I loved the Toyota/Lexus brand. My GX 460 went into limp mode. The code indicates secondary air injection pump and valves. With just minor research I discovered this is a very common issue for both Lexus and Toyota. Lexus is refusing to cover the parts and wanting to charge me $2,300 to repair. This brand is not what it used to be. Please do your reserch on these injection pumps, you'll see what I mean. You'll have to read the forums, becase Lexus usually deleats these threats to their fake image.
bigphil, or anyone. do you have pics of what a new valve is supposed to look like. seems like that is part of my problem also now. guess some stuff was still in the valve from when the filter god jacked up and is now rearing its head
did you just change the tops or the whole valves. the rubber that seems to be all melted in the pic does not look like foam stuff. something more like a gasket or something.
When you buy the valves from Lexus if you unscrew the 4 torx screws on the valve it will break into 3 pieces
First piece:
Second piece is this orange seal piece that is circled in my picture. I took a flat head screwdriver to mine and they popped right out
The third piece is the cast aluminum piece that is bolted to the engine and then exhaust tubes.
When I replace mine I left the cast piece bolted to the engine and tubes and only replaced the black valve portion and the rubber seal/valve piece that fits into the aluminum piece.
I'm not sure why mine looked like that but from searching on the internet thats what most of them have looked like.
so i thought i was over this crappy system. i had cleaned out my pump of the sucked in filter and replaced the blown fuse. its been about 3 weeks and 1000 miles of driving and i threw codes today for the valves stuck open. opened them up and they both are caked with crap. so i will have to order some new valves. on another note i got in a replacement filter. its a uni up-107, made in the usa filter. its the same size as the stock deflector. i got it on amazon for around $12 shipped. as you can see it fits like it should, and i think it will work great. i was going to run it open but i was worried about mud robbers or other critters climbing in there. sounds like replacing the filter is just a little too late
daman7676, i have had problems since november. my filter let loose and plugged my pump up. i cleaned the pump and got it working again, and replaced the blown fuse, i have had it up and running for about 2 weeks without the filter. i actually got the UNIi in the day the valves gave out. from my pic you can see a lot made it to the valves. i thought about running w/o a filter but mud robbers like to find places to hide here. this filter is great and made in the usa. so to answer the question it was before i added the uni, but my pump already ate a filter and i have never changed the valves since the filter was sucked in. uni on, pump clean, taking lines off and making sure they are clean and $466 in valves on order (local toyota wouldn't budge from full on retail, would have been $606 w tax)
got it. very sorry to hear about all the trouble you've had. hopefully this setup proves to be worthy. i have a 2010 with 80K miles so I've been following this post closely. i haven't popped open the pump yet...i'd hate to actually cause more problems (seal damage) by doing versus just leaving it alone.
daman7676, don't worry about opening the pump cover. All you have to do is remove the one T25 screw in the center.
I ordered the UNI filter this morning. I prefer to not have ANYTHING inside of the pump and this looks like a better solution than my contraption. Thanks machine323
01-09-16, 06:00 PM
