PCV Valve Location
12-10-15, 02:25 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
PCV Valve Location
I'm trying to knock out some quick maintenance items on a recently purchased GX. Does anyone know where the PCV valve is located? I looked all around the valve covers and can't seem to find it. Thanks!
12-11-15, 09:30 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
12-14-15, 05:00 AM
#4
Intermediate
Do you have a particular problem or just want to give it a good cleaning with a few blasts?
07-26-17, 12:23 AM
#5
Super Moderator
If one does replace this torque specs appear to be just 31 in-lbs
Last edited by Acrad; 07-27-20 at 05:54 PM.
07-26-17, 12:37 AM
#7
Super Moderator
This is a pretty good overview
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/H...PCV-valve-test
Realistically probably doesn't need to be changed until 100K miles or more. I ordered one for around $10 and plan to swap mine out. I'm just OC maintenance-wise. :-) I think I saw posted you use a 23MM deep well socket. It's just plastic so it should extract fairly easily. It could cause oil leaks if it ever gets plugged but you would probably be seeing a CEL as well.
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/H...PCV-valve-test
Realistically probably doesn't need to be changed until 100K miles or more. I ordered one for around $10 and plan to swap mine out. I'm just OC maintenance-wise. :-) I think I saw posted you use a 23MM deep well socket. It's just plastic so it should extract fairly easily. It could cause oil leaks if it ever gets plugged but you would probably be seeing a CEL as well.
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07-26-17, 05:51 AM
#8
Intermediate
Even if you do not have any symptoms it is plastic and it ages. If you wait too long and you need to remove it, a brittle plastic part may break and pieces may fall inside the block. If this happens your engine is at risk of a complete failure (unlikely though). Usually it costs $10-$20, it is wise to replace it once you hit the 8-10 years mark regardless.
07-26-17, 01:56 PM
#9
Super Moderator
Even if you do not have any symptoms it is plastic and it ages. If you wait too long and you need to remove it, a brittle plastic part may break and pieces may fall inside the block. If this happens your engine is at risk of a complete failure (unlikely though). Usually it costs $10-$20, it is wise to replace it once you hit the 8-10 years mark regardless.
08-09-17, 03:47 PM
#10
Super Moderator
Part came in a few days ago... I'll probably replace after I do my oil change.
08-10-17, 01:47 PM
#11
Super Moderator
EDIT: FSM does showing intake manifold being removed.
I was looking at this last night and was gonna change it but after taking a few parts out I backed out. I believe recommended procedure is to pull the top air plenum off but a few Tundra reports just getting the foam out and pull the outer skirt layer off the hose. The tearing of the foam is what gave me pause. I got it back together and can't really tell anything is abnormal down there. I can see why air plenum piece is recommended as I can't see a way to get the foam out as-is without tearing. I'll revisit this another day. The valve is quite a ways down in there so you may want to have some long reach needle nose pliers to extract it out.
Closest video I have found is this and it only really shows where it is at. Engine parts are not fully the same either. This might be a 5.7L and far more room with fewer engine pieces within engine in video versus the 4.6L we have.
I was looking at this last night and was gonna change it but after taking a few parts out I backed out. I believe recommended procedure is to pull the top air plenum off but a few Tundra reports just getting the foam out and pull the outer skirt layer off the hose. The tearing of the foam is what gave me pause. I got it back together and can't really tell anything is abnormal down there. I can see why air plenum piece is recommended as I can't see a way to get the foam out as-is without tearing. I'll revisit this another day. The valve is quite a ways down in there so you may want to have some long reach needle nose pliers to extract it out.
Closest video I have found is this and it only really shows where it is at. Engine parts are not fully the same either. This might be a 5.7L and far more room with fewer engine pieces within engine in video versus the 4.6L we have.
Last edited by Acrad; 10-07-18 at 12:21 PM.
08-18-18, 01:08 PM
#12
Super Moderator
09-21-19, 06:24 AM
#13
Super Moderator
5.7L but looks like it can be done far easier than FSM would suggest.
11-25-19, 07:12 AM
#14
Did anyone end up doing this? I’ve got a 2013 with 90k on it so not super worried about it since I don’t think it’s in the manual. I need to have my SAP recall done so I was thinking I might drop off a PCV with it and have the dealer put it on.
11-25-19, 09:26 AM
#15
Intermediate
I just did it on a V6 RAV4. Does that count? 
It's a metal valve on the RAV, so I just cleaned it up and reinstalled.
The air plenum did need to come out, along with the throttle body and part of the intake hose. Took a couple hours, but I was also doing spark plugs and a coil pack.
It's a metal valve on the RAV, so I just cleaned it up and reinstalled.The air plenum did need to come out, along with the throttle body and part of the intake hose. Took a couple hours, but I was also doing spark plugs and a coil pack.