MickeyS

I have a lot of fun and satisfaction working on my GX and noticed that the rear brake pads soon will need to be replaced. I know how to take off the front rotors by putting some DW-40 and using a rubber mallet to get them off. However because of the parking brake, I don't know how to get the rotor out so I can resurface it, which at this point don't look that bad anyway. Does anyone know how to get the rear rotors off? I have to do my wife's ES350 too so I figure I'll do mine first then hers. Any tips and help can be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Eppieguy

Never looked at the rotors on the GX yet but why would you resurface? These rotors are throw aways and for the price of new why not just replace with a new rotor?

Koz

Do not resurface the rotors, you will only be taking mass away and they will warp soon after. Also, rotors are not expensive and will end up being less expensive then the time and cost of cutting them and then having to replace them new (and the cost of another set of pads.)

The rear (and front) rotors come off the same way. The only difference between the front and rear is the rear rotors have an inner drum for the emergency brake. There are two threaded holes in the rotors (outside outer face – 180 deg apart) that are used to push the rotor off the axle end. I suggest shooting some WD40 on/in the threads and put a little never-seize on the treads of the bolts. You will have to get the bolts and they need to be the longest threaded bolts without a shoulder. You simply tighten the bolts equally and not all at once. Back and forth until the rotor breaks free of the axle and inner emergency brake drum. You need to wiggle the rotor back and forth with the bolts a LITTLE at a time, as to not **** the drum/rotor on the shoes. It also helps to whack the rotor with a hammer (metal hammer – you will be replacing them) as you are wiggling the rotor to free the emergency brake shoes from the inner drum (in the rotor). If you do not free the shoes from the rotor you will have a real hard time getting the rotor off without damaging the emergency brake shoe assembly. If you can not free the shoes you need to adjust the emergency brake to retract the shoes, to release them from the drum. You want to avoid having to adjust (release) the emergency brake because you will have to re-adjust to get it to work properly when done. If you take your time and whack the rotor with a hammer (also only tighten the push bolts a little at a time, back and forth), you should be able to free the emergency brake shoes without having to touch the adjustment.

Here is my set-up - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7610048-post83.html

BTW - Notice the treaded pusher holes.

Koz

MickeyS

Thanks a lot for your advice and tips about taking off the rotors. Where did you go to get the bolts? I won't resurface them, like you said I rather replace them than turn them. Any suggestions on pads, or should I stick with the Toyota(Lexus OEM)pads? How about rotors? Autozone, PepBoys and Advanced Auto Parts are near but don't know exactly which brand of rotors to choose from, or it doesn't really matter?. I love the ones you have on, but I wander if they last a long time. I was thinking about Wagner rotors and pads, what's your opinion on that?

Koz

I had bolts lying around in the garage, not sure what size they are. You can get them at your local Lowes/HD store. I have found after market ceramic pads to work best for me. Here is the rotors/link I got. They are working very well and were reasonably priced.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7544790-post34.html

Koz

MickeyS

I wanted to do my wife's car first so I bought a set of Centric rotors with a set of Akebono ProAct ceramic pads for the rear, took the rotor with me to HD and found two metric bolts (M8 1.25x60MM) that fit the hole on the rotor perfectly and did the job last night. Better stopping than the OEM so far, I guess because they are new, hopefully it will last longer than OEM. The job took me exactly two hours and was easier than what I thought. Thanks to everyone who contributed with their input. I am sure the dealer doesn't replace the rotors, correct me if I am wrong, I figure they just resurface them. One very interesting point that you mentioned earlier is that by resurfacing the rotor you are taking mass off the rotor giving it more chances of warping. That was enough for me and made the decision of replacing the rotor. From now on, when I do a brake job I will also replace the rotors. I wonder if the old rotors can be recycled? When I do the GX I will probably go with the ones you have, the slotted drilled rotors, which should be more aggressive. Koz, you mentioned that you use ceramic brake pads on your truck and while browsing the brake performance website they said that ceramic pas are not recommended for SUV's, why is that?

Koz

Semi-metallic pads provide a better initial bite and will resist fade more than ceramic pads caused by excessive heat (heavier vehicle produce more heat). The negatives using semi-metallic pads are; they are noisier, produce damaging black brake dust, louder, wear faster and eat your rotors. The semi-metallic brake pad dust contains tiny hot metal particles that will destroy the finish on your wheels (especially if you do not remove it timely). If I used the oem rotors I would have used a semi-metallic/ceramic blend pad. I have found that using higher quality rotors that are better ventilated eliminates any fade issues when using quality ceramic pads (like Hawk pads).

Koz

MickeyS

So far the Akebono pads with the Centric rotors are wearing well, good grip and very quiet. I will do the GX this weekend if I can finish with the pool so my wife and daughter can go in and stay home rather than go shopping and spend money.I read on a website about the slotted and drilled rotors being prone to warping and premature pad wear specially for SUV's. So I decided to stay with the plain rotors because according to the website the plain rotors offer more surface and better stopping capabilities than the slotted or drilled. What I am looking to do is somehow clean the calipers in a way that they look new. I don't know what to use to clean them, I want to stay away from painting them right now, I don't think I am doing too much good by painting them.

Koz

The rotors I used have dimples (not drilled). An important thing I look for when buying a product is "lifetime warranty" or "maintenance free". These rotors have a lifetime warranty. You can use brake cleaner to clean the calipers. You disconnect the caliper (don't disconnect the hydraulic hose) and take out the old pads. Then move the caliper away from the rotor (I wedge it on the back plate) and spray in down and use a nylon housekeeping brush to get in the nooks and spray it again (put a drip pan under it). I like to paint the calipers (only the face where you can see through the wheel). If you do this, only use spray paint (do not use the brush on paint). I use painter's tape as not to get any overspray on anything else. After cleaning (with brake cleaner) the spray paint (caliper specific spray paint) only takes a couple minutes and looks so good and will last for years. I find that the calipers stay cleaner with the paint. The OEM caliper (flat finish) tends to show/collect dirt much quicker and gets hard clean in time.+

Koz

MickeyS

Great posting Koz! Now I am going to paint mine too! How many coats did you give each caliper?They really look awesome, my only concern is when you wash your wheels and use wheel cleaner, is the cleaner going to get rid of the shine on the paint?

The paint dries very fast, just use light coats until solid black (or whatever color). About three coats. Wheel cleaner has no affect on the paint. Just make sure you use caliper spray paint (got it at Advanced Auto).

Koz

MickeyS

Koz, what threadlocker did you use to keep your bolts from loosening? I used Locktite blue 242, don't know if it's strong enough.

Koz

If you are referring to the mounting bolts for the calipers, I use the opposite, never-seize and torque them to spec (don't recall the lbs.ft..). These bolts can be a bear to get out if they rust (over time).

Koz

dstock

Reviving an old thread but I just wanted to offer my thoughts on the PowerStop rotors and Hawk LTS pads. So far just the fronts installed but already a noticeable difference. I bought the car used and they refreshed the brakes. I didn't trust them so I replaced everything new.

The initial bite is stronger and hard braking stops the truck much sooner. Not sure if this will solve the creep we were getting at red lights yet (it's the wife's car so not enough time in it yet) but I think the increased friction will help.

I'll be putting the rears on in a week or so. The wheels are F-Sports and they seem to hide a lot of dirt/dust so I don't see it will be an issue.

dstock

here;s the view with the wheels on

tecman

Thanks for the info and update. I am content with my brakes for now but I may consider the upgrade.Please do post any additional results with the "creep". I have noticed that on my truck also.