Well I only broke one tab removing the grill so I consider the project a success....

I'm not sure if this has already been said, but I think the hardest step is getting to the hose clamp on the lower radiator fitting for the existing hose that gets removed. I ended up going in through the wheel well and spinning the clamp with a flat head screw driver until I could get some needle nose pliers on it and pry it up a bit. Took a few turns to get the clamp off the nipple, and a bit of work on the hose with a flat head before I could get my hand in there from the top and pull it free.

We're pulling the camper this weekend so I should be able to get some new temps and revel in the improvement.

 

Yeah... that is the hardest part and a good note for everyone who will install in future.

 

This is my kind of mod. I see it as cheap insurance for such an expensive vehicle. Why wouldn't we do this?!? We tow quite a bit and the real data looks impressive, definitely an improvement.

 

This is a post on Tundra forum in the past that inspired me to pin my "ATF Warmer" thermostatic switch open. Certainly something for others to test. I've kept mine pinned open now for over a year with no ill effects. I guess they changed the setup on Tundras '19+.

 

An extra cooler is never a bad idea... if I wasnt possibly moving back to cold weather winters, I'd pin open the thermostat,
I'm concerned with leaving it that way longterm it could damage the valve.

 

I understand reservation to not pin open. I wouldn't myself if I had not already seen many others do it. This looks like part I would have to replace if there was ever an issue.

ATF Warmer PN: 33493-34030

 

I was thinking about this too and curious the downside of doing it. So if you're in cold weather, pin it open will not have the AT warm up to optimal temp quick enough or if too cold, not warm up at all. If you're in fair climate, then pin it open helps reduce the operating temp roughly ~20deg. Is 20deg cooler makes a difference if the AT temp is around 180-200 with normal driving?

@Acrad, do you unpin it for the winter when you're going to the snow?

 

I've left it pinned now since a month after I installed it back in spring 2019. It really doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in warm up time. I'm sure one could do some temp stats via OBD but almost 95% of all travel with this vehicle is 50-120 miles at a time. My normal drive temps are still 180-200 as things eventually all level out with the coolant temps.

Seems to be more about fuel economy than anything on a "cold" start.

https://lexusgxor.com/_media/general:a760f.pdf

 

I love the idea of pinning it open. Are there vehicles that are sold without a atf warmer? If so, it shouldn't be an issue to leave it pinned open, even in colder climates in winter, outside of reduced fuel economy.

 

I'm not aware of any Toyota/Lexus trucks ~2010+ that do not have ATF warmer but they changed the system up in 2019 on the Tundras. That thread a few back is about adding in an AT cooler that went missing after 2018.

The 4.6L in Tundra or models that lacked a towing package had the warmer but didn't have the liquid cooler built into the radiator.




Just my opinion... while I am sure you could cool a transmission to level that could cause wear or functionality issue (perhaps TC engagement...etc)... most stories you read are about overheated fluid in transmissions. My transmission runs in temp ranges that are considered normal and allow for extended fluid life.

Another opinion.... I'm not sure I would see any ill effects (aside from minimal cold start fuel MPG in the first few miles) from the permanent removal of this ATF warmer.

Just my $.02. :-)

EDIT:
A few Tundra related threads about pinning open or not as well

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tran...oo-cold.32001/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/pinn...-cooler.69641/

EDIT2:

One of these days I do need to do another OBD AT temp test with pin removed to more firmly pinpoint temperature this ATF warmer opens up and closes.

 

Has anyone ordered these parts from OEMVEHPARTS recently? Mine was 3 weeks back still haven’t shipped.

 

Ordered 8/21, no word yet.
Just emailed them..

 

Just installed this, here’s a few notes:
- Had to remove battery to gain access to the area by the radiator connections, I don’t know how else one could fit their hand and tool down that space otherwise.
- Removed the plastic lower gap piece forward of the skid plate, most of the time you’ll be through the driver side opening next to the KDSS boot.
- Right angle long-nose plier was helpful getting the old lower hose clamp off the cooler return due to its orientation. This is the one outboard closest to KDSS boot.
- With the clamp off, the hose still stuck on pretty good, had to slice open the hose and tear it away from the hardline, be careful not to score the hardline.
- When installing hoses on hardline, make sure you push it far enough that it’s over at least 1” of the hardline, the hose clamp needs to sit before the initial hump on the hardline, you can feel the hump by feeling on the hose itself (hoses are very soft rubber surprisingly)
- Wiggle all the hoses and take note of any of the hoses touching each other or other components and the clamps, overtime this can chafe the hose(s) enough to cause punctures. To prevent running, you can twist the hose slightly to misalign them. I reused the rubber strap from the to-radiator hose and old from-radiator hose. I used a large zip tie over the strap to tie the two long hoses to-radiator and new from-cooler hose. These long hoses should vibrate excessively otherwise without the strap due to its length and flowing fluid.
- After I went for the test drive, checked for any leaks, you can check if there’s flow by feeling the to and from cooler hardline pipes, from cooler should be warm and to cooler should be very hot *be careful not to injure youself*.
- I did not have to fill additional ATF. Only lost maybe a few ml worth when removing the old from-radiator hose and the cooler volume should only be ~0.3 of a quart. Time will tell if this is a poor decision on my part.

 

Do you have a larger than stock battery size ? (IIRC stock is a Group 35)

I don't remember having to remove my battery but I could see if one was running a wider battery it may restrict room for this install.

 

So I installed the cooler on our 2017 GX460 yesterday. I ended up removing the battery and the skid plate, but did not need to remove the front grill. Of course, I removed the large plastic radiator cover.

I ended up cutting the hooked rubber hose that gets removed and discarded anyway, to gain access. This worked well.

You can go ahead and pre-install the 2 hoses onto the cooler, and the bottom bracket, before sliding it into position. This helps.

I tried adding 6oz of fluid via the new hoses, but it wouldn’t take much, probably due to being cold.

Overall, it went great, no leaks, and I could definitely feel warm fluid going in and cool coming out.

The parts list from this thread was dead on. Thanks!

Thumbs up.