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I would install them anyway just to cover all the bases, though if they are stuck closed you may be able to get away without it. You can reach them from the wheelwell -- I just pulled the splash guards, didn't have to jack the vehicle up or remove wheels. I am lifted a little, though.
I called and spoke with Becky at Hewitt Tech, I asked if the blocking plates were necessary. She said with out it you can potentially damage your pump driver, so as a precaution good idea to install the plates
For those of you like myself who wanted to know what this actually does before buying and installing one I found this from the creator of the bypass.
These pumps don't run if the ECM sees Intake Air temp less than 41°F at cold start, so the circuit described here has one purpose: to trick the ECM into believing the Intake Air temp is less than that, but only during startup. Soon as the engine starts, the circuitry reverts everything to normal.
That is it, trick the ECM into thinking it's cold out for the first 12 seconds. This will prevent the SIAS from ever being activated.
This just happened with my 2007 / GX470 / 122K.
I haven't decided what kit I'm going with yet, but here is a good comparison I found.
2. Get a kit that requires you to cut wires, aka, the SlyFox kit. It is $45 but I you must be comfortable cutting at least one wire. Jeff is a great guy and he was very helpful over email even though I did not go with his kit.
3. The plug and play method. Their are two kits - RuTech ($180) and Hewitt Tech ($225). The big difference is the RuTech does not have a starter wire, so the relay will not work if you put your truck ignition in the ON (but not Started) position for more than a few seconds. Hewitt has the started wire, but it requires you to put it under the starter relay. Hewitt might need a wire cut as well. You can check their website.
@dlukowsk I have a 2007 gx 470 with 155000, when the check engine light came on, and also brought me to this site. After doing some research what I learned was if you warm up the engine you can do a reset with your OBDII scanner and keep it off as long as the temp was right. I had the 2245 and po418 code. I ordered the Hewitt Tech even though it cost more, due to it offering a limited lifetime warranty vs a 2 year warranty from RU Tech. There is NO splicing of the Hewitt Tech everything is plug and play. The Single purple wire, you really don't need it unless you just want to keep the function of starting the engine after keeping the key on the ON position for more than 10 seconds.The install of the Purple wire is super easy. Just route it to the fuse box and pull the starter relay and wrap it around the positive prong. the other end plugs into the bypass. . I also bought the PPP for the PO418 code but didn't need it. Once I installed the SAIS and cleared the codes the PO418 did not come back on. So Far I am happy with the bypass and it has bought me some time until I want to do this right and replace the parts($$$)
For those of you guys worried about smogging your Vehicle after installing the SAIS, just warm up the engine and remove the ByPASS. The check engine light should stay off because the SAIS was not activated. This way you can pass the visual and the regular smog check.
@Ropeman Thanks for the additional info. I've also decided to go with the Hewitt Kit. What sealed the deal for me is the purple starter wire. I share the car with my wife and I can see her getting into the car turning it on, getting distracted by our kids, then freaking out when she starts it and gets the Christmas tree lights. Funny thing is I haven't gotten the code again since I reset it a few days ago and the temperature has been just right to turn it on. I wonder how intermittent these valves are before they go out? Don't get me wrong I'm still going to get the kit. I pull a trailer a half dozen times a year and the last thing I need to worry about is being out in the woods with a trailer in "limp-home" mode.
dlukowsk, From what I read it the valves itselft is not the problem but the SAIS blower under the manifold has foam material that breaks down and clogs the valves from doing its job. This might save you some time the starter wire, get some wire loom( Hewitt tech sells them also) to protect the purple wire. plug the wire into the bypass and run it up and tuck it from the topside into the plastic cover that goes along the top of the engine bay. so it looks hidden. also pulling the starter relay is bit of a pain. pull the bigger surrounding relays to give you some room to pull the starter relay. Also just incase, before you buy the bypass and the code comes on drive your car for about 5 min to get the temp back up and use your OBDII code reader to clear the codes and it will take you out of limp mode so your not stuck. I had to show my wife how to. use the code reader to reset. Good Luck with your fix!!
My 2007 GX470 has the CEL/ VSC trac and off and other lights, I had the valve fixed at one point, but it didn't solve the issue because the CEL code P1442 still came on when it is colder season(basically below 40 degrees ) . However it has been on for weeks and I never got in the limp mode. I did drive it in snow and being the trac off lights are on I felt the traction control was turned off because of the CEL. This kit will definitely get rid of the CEL as well as the other lights so that my traction control works again right? Or should I go to the dealer and spend the extra labor to dig in to whats really wrong with it?
This code isn't something that I had happened to me I got the p2445 and the PO418 but, I would start with erasing the code and see if it comes back on. But if you Check Hewitt Tech web site you can read up on this. Also I would recommend giving Hewitt Tech a call and ask them as they know about their by pass kit a lot better than anyone. Only thing I could tell you is the By pass kit worked for me and I am very happy with it. Also about the dealer, all they are gonna do is run the OBD2 codes and tell you the worst case scenario which is $$$$. At least that is what happened to me, I got quoted $3K. Good Luck let me know What Hewitt Tech says.
I am doing the replacement for the SAIS and starter replacement on my 2007 GX470. Just like some here, took me 2-3 days to get everything apart. Very frustrating especially those nuts/bolts by the fire wall (the check valves) and the starter. Now, I need torque specifications to assemble everything back. Can someone point me to the right location to get the torque specifications. Attached are pix of my removal. Thank you ahead for the torque information.
I don't know torque specs, does Autozone site list them?
Are you replacing the blower motor? If not be sure to take it apart, make sure the wires are not cutting into each other. If they are, make a fix before they short out.
11-15-18, 11:30 AM
