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Looking for Advice on Suspension Airbag Replacement

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Old 04-03-17, 09:59 AM
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gwebster
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Default Looking for Advice on Suspension Airbag Replacement

Hi, I just bought replacement suspension air bags and I did a lot of research on how to replace (I bought special tool for removing airline). I have 2 questions for anyone who has done this replacement themselves: 1. What is the best way to access the clip at the top of the airbag? I looked under the vehicle, and there seems to be no good way to get my arm up and reach the clip. Even with tire removed, it seems that the clip would be blocked by wheel well. 2. I did not buy replacement air line at this point, and I am wondering if the plastic clip that is on the line and attaches to the air inlet of the air bag is reuseable? I wanted to buy a few extra clips, but when I looked on the LEXUS part diagram it appears that I need to buy the airline and two clips come with it. I appreciate any help!
Old 04-03-17, 11:15 AM
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22caruso
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I was going to post this today as I just did the swap on Saturday.

I used jack stands in front of the rear wheels on the frame. I thought about going behind the wheels but the exhaust was in the way. I removed the rear wheels and most importantly the spare tire. Using my floor jack and more jack stands I supported the rear axle.

It's definitely tight to get to the air lines. I was able to sort of squat under the vehicle and come at it from the inside. Both sides are different but I could only find one spot where my hand could reach and it was obvious. On the passenger side there is some kind of fabric/rubber piece that you can disconnect from the rear mount and give yourself a little more room. On the driver side there is an electrical loom that is fit into the top bracket and is completely in the way. Push it out from the bottom with a screwdriver, mine came right out. I used a 1/4" fuel line quick disconnect to remove/replace the airlines. When putting the air line back in, I put the quick disconnect into the fitting and then pressed the line in. Not sure the proper procedure but this worked. Without it I would MOST DEFINITELY have broken the air lines. The outside clip is easy to remove and I reused it. Didn't even worry about that clip. My passenger side bag had the major leaks so there was no air left when removed. The driver side had air in it so when I pulled the line the bag compressed and the axle lifted off my jack stands. I'm sure there was a way to manually bleed the air but I don't know it. The retaining clip that holds the bag in place was fairly easy to reach from inside the fenderwell using a long screwdriver. I was lucky and it just slid out and stayed on top of the bracket. I used the same screwdriver to push it back on the new bag. Once I had both bags in place I started jacking up the axle until I could manually push the bottom of the bag in the keyhole.

Overall this was REALLY easy. I'm certain it took longer to get the vehicle on jack stands and the wheels off than it did to actually replace the bags. I was completely finished and aired up in 2 hours. I bought Westar bags off ebay for $156 delivered.

I wish I had taken pictures as I couldn't really find any good writeups of this process. Based on how easy it was, the coil swap should be even easier. as the air lines don't matter.

And the ride is excellent.
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Old 04-03-17, 12:41 PM
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gwebster
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Thanks for the excellent write-up! Do you think it would be ok if I just did one side at a time? I would jack up one side and put frame on jack stand, then use the jack to lift the axle once the bag is in place. PS: I bought the same bags as you
Old 04-03-17, 01:17 PM
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22caruso
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My initial plan was to do one side at a time as I was a little sketched out being underneath the vehicle. I think it would be possible but probably not ideal. There was a lot of movement in the axle when the bags completely deflated. I also needed quite a bit of room to get the new bag in. I'm not sure you would get enough drop with the opposite side still on the ground. I finally decided to buy the 6 ton HF stands so I now have 4. With the 20% off coupon they were only $32. When I decided to do both sides at the same time, I also picked up GOOD chocks. I don't trust the cheap plastic ones and my usual block of wood didn't seem like a smart thing to trust my life to.

If I had to do it again - which I will when I lift it - I'd do both at the same time.

Also, since I knew my passenger side was the culprit, I didn't like the idea of trying to release the pressure with the driver side aired up. Like I said before I'm sure there's a trick but I don't know it!
Old 04-04-17, 12:17 PM
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gwebster
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Thanks again for your help. Based on your comments, I picked up a few more jack stands and metal chocks. You mentioned that u needed the fuel line tool to get the tube in the new airbag. That confused me a bit - doesn't the air line just slide into the self locking fitting on the new bag?
Old 04-04-17, 12:27 PM
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22caruso
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You have to open up the jaws on the lock to remove the line from the existing air bag. Lexus/Toyota has a tool for the job for $50. I found on another forum this link:
Amazon Amazon

The 1/4" fits almost perfect. I tested it on the new bag before installation and you definitely need it. I think I read on here that cutting down one of the conical caps from a silicon tube will work too.

I also inserted the tool into the new bag and then inserted the air line. I couldn't get the air line in without it.

I should give credit to the user that posted this attachment, sorry I don't remember who it is. This is from the FSM. It references the tool.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
rear air bags 2.pdf (159.6 KB, 619 views)
Old 04-04-17, 06:47 PM
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gwebster
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I'm glad you mentioned using the tool to reinstall the line, as I likely would have tried to force it in. I bought the "special tool" on ebay a few weeks back. I think I paid $20, but looks like something that should cost 25 cents. I hope replacing the bags helps my ride. Neither of mine are deflated like yours, but I can tell they are losing some air. My GX feels like it is rocking side to side when driving. If this doesn't fix the problem, I am thinking I could have a bad shock, but I figured I would try this first since it is a relatively inexpensive repair.
Old 04-07-17, 08:33 AM
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gwebster
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Finished the air spring replacement yesterday. The biggest issue I faced was rust on airline fitting that made it very difficult to remove white clip and airline. The "special tool" I bought broke in about 30 seconds, so I made my own which worked well. Because of this, driver side took 2 hours, but I finished the passenger side in 25 min. The replacement seemed to fixed my "rocking" issue I was having. Thanks again for the help!
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Old 08-16-17, 12:19 PM
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moakes
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Originally Posted by gwebster
Finished the air spring replacement yesterday. The biggest issue I faced was rust on airline fitting that made it very difficult to remove white clip and airline. The "special tool" I bought broke in about 30 seconds, so I made my own which worked well. Because of this, driver side took 2 hours, but I finished the passenger side in 25 min. The replacement seemed to fixed my "rocking" issue I was having. Thanks again for the help!
Thanks for the update. So did you do one side at at time, or jack both up? I'm a little uncomfortable with both up, but want to know the truth on what you did. Thx.
Old 08-16-17, 08:01 PM
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gwebster
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Originally Posted by moakes
Thanks for the update. So did you do one side at at time, or jack both up? I'm a little uncomfortable with both up, but want to know the truth on what you did. Thx.
I did one side at a time. First I pushed the air shock to the low position to get some air out and then turned off the air shock. After removing tire, I raised that side until the air shock was extended as far as it would go. I used a combined jack/jack stand to support and also put tire under with boards for added security. Even with jack raised there was still too much air in shock to easily remove, so I used a small sharp object to puncture to slowly let additional air out (I could do this from the side without being under vehicle). That worked well, and I could then proceed by unclippping at top and pulling shock down to remove air line.
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Old 09-05-18, 04:06 PM
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banjojimmy
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Default Remove/Replace blown LF air shock LS430UL

The LF air shock on my 02 430UL blew out a few days ago with a couple of whistle-like squeaks. The pump had been running more than normally for a week or so, then ran continuously on the way to the store...I heard a few short squeaks as I drove. When I got out, the LF began to sink slowly. I immediately drove home [only a mile], pump running all the way. When I got home I watched it sink until it bottomed out a minute or so later. After freaking out on prices at eBay, I tried a local import salvage yard and they had one: $200! I hurried over there and bought it--from a car that was the twin of mine. It looks good and still has an intact air line on it. What is the proper "remove and replace" procedure for the drivers side front unit? I want to be sure I don't damage the air line or the electrical connector! [My apologies if I missed the info that may already have been posted.] THANKS! JLM, Nashville
Old 09-05-18, 06:55 PM
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chiph9
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Sorry, this is the GX470 forum.

Chip H.
Old 09-05-18, 11:45 PM
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vwynn
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guys, have you searched youtube? Theres plenty of videos regarding this.

Why read a written DIY when you can ACTUALLY SEE it happening first hand.
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