Roochia

Hey guys, first post here, new to Club Lexus.

So, I recently sold a 4Runner for my "new" GX470 on a reccomendation from my father. (He is the Pre-Owned Director at a Lexus dealer in Atlanta) So far, I love it. Though, I have had to learn many new and interesting things about it in order to work out some kinks. Luckily, I enjoy turning wrenches in my spare time. After a ton of reading and browsing multiple sites, I figured I would compile a list of fixes for common problem areas and work I have done on my GX so far. Things that, through trial and error, I have figured out. Maybe this will help some folks.

Blown Door Speakers
OEM Speakers: Mark Levinson 8ohm
Size: 6”x9”

Problem
Foam woofer surround material disintegrated causing distorted sound.

Parts needed to fix (front door speakers)
DS18 MB69 6x9 speaker
Cost: $42 / pair
Site: Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8077VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Metra 82-8146 6x9 front speaker adapter (these mount the speakers to the door, a must have)
Cost: $12
Site: Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Metra 72-8104 Toyota Speaker connector (so you don’t have to cut any wires)
Cost: $7
Site: Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Install
1) Remove door panel screws under arm pad and door lever cover.
2) Remove the black triangle piece by the side mirror at the top of the door panel. This piece will simple pull off.
3) Pull the door panel from edges to pop the retaining clips and the door panel will come off with ease.
4) Carefully unplug wiring harnesses and cables going to the door handle and door lock mechanism.
5) With the door panel removed, unscrew the housing for the old speaker unit and remove plugin for speaker wires.
6) Install Metra 72-8104 Toyota Speaker connector, then Metra 82-8146 6x9 front speaker adapter, and mount the new 6x9 speakers.

Review
Though surely not as precise as the Mark Levinson’s, they do a great job. Would buy them again in a heartbeat. For around $60, you can’t beat it and they are 8ohm, which is necessary to replace the OEM speakers.


Rear Air Bags to Spring Conversion (without lift)
Problem
Air bag suspension fails, leaks, and costs an arm and a leg to replace.

Parts needed for install
Springs for FJ Cruiser (FJ springs are thicker than 4Runner springs and some opt for these for this reason, given the GX’s weight)
Model: Moog 81081
Cost: $50-$60
Site: Amazon or Ebay have these for around $60
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81081-Coil-Spring-Set/dp/B006DYJEQ8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478891984&sr=1-2&keywords=moog+fj+springs

MetalTech Rear Coil Conversion Kit DIY (This holds the new springs in place on the axle and is a must)
Cost: $60
Site: http://www.metaltech4x4.com/p-792-gx...n-diy-kit.aspx

Toyota Spring Seat Assembly 48302-35040 (these are optional as the GX470 top mounts will hold the springs in place just fine)
Cost: $65
Site: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyot.../dp/B00GKH33NS

Install
(copied from the Metaltech install pdf and added a last step for air suspension fuse removal)
1) REMOVAL: Jack up the rear of the truck and support the with jack stands under the frame rail. Remove the rear tires.
a) Disconnect the sway bar links on the frame with a 12mm wrench.
b) Disconnect the wiring on both shocks located at the top. Once disconnected use a 17mm wrench to remove the bolt on the axle and stem mount on the frame.
c) Located on top of the frame where the air bag mounts you will see two air lines one going to each air bag. You’ll need to disconnect them; they are on a special quick release. You can see where the airline is mounted to by looking through the fender well between the body and frame.
d) Using a flashlight look through the fender well between the body and frame and there will be a spring clip hold the air bag in place. Use a long thing flat head screw driver and slide the clip out of its position. 1.5 Remove the air bag.

2) INSTALL: Remove old parts and prep for the installation for the new parts.
a) Install the spring cups on the axle using the ½ x 13 x 2.5” bolts, washers and nylocks with a ¾” wrench and socket.
b) Slide the spring tail isolators over the spring cups. Make sure the spring trail isolators orientation where the end of the pig tail is facing outwards towards the brakes.
c) Install the Prado 120 spring isolators (optional) on top of the spring.
d) Push down the axle on each side and install the new springs
e) Depending if you’re putting stock height springs or lifted springs, install your new/old shocks.
f) Install the sway bar links using the 12mm wrench.
g) Reinstall wheel and lower your GX470/4Runner back onto the ground.

3) Disconnecting the Fuses and Relay (so lights on dash don’t stay illuminated and searching for an air system)
a) Inside the engine bay you will locate the fuse/relay box on the driver side. One the inside of the panel will have a chart showing the location of all the fuses and relays. Locate the “Air Sus 50A” fuse and, if there, the “Air Sus Fuse #2”
b) Inside, under the steering column, locate the fuses. Pull the 20A “TEMS” fuse that should be the third from the right on the top row.

Review
So far, so great. The back sits about 1/2” higher in the back than the front, which I think is how many SUVs and trucks sit anyway. I could always add a 1/2” spacer to the front springs, but I’m going to wait and see if the new rear springs settle any first. I may even leave it as is even if they don’t as it really looks great. Ride-wise, it is near perfect. The spring rate seems to be great so far and very similar to the front OEM springs. I can’t really tell a difference between front and rear, you probably won’t either. Also, the security and peace of mind I have knowing I don’t have old air bags that keep messing up or giving me a harsh ride is wonderful.


Rear Drive Shaft Thunk, Clunk, Bang, and Clank
Problem
A common issue, “normal operating” if you ask Lexus, is that the vehicle, when you come to a stop, sometimes makes a clunk, or bang, and it feels like you just got rear-ended slightly. This is actually normal in the GX470 and, some say, in the 4x4 4Runner.
Folks have been trying to remedy this for quite a while and there is even a technical service bulletin out about it.

Fix
After a ton of reading on this, I had it narrowed down to being a lubrication issue in the yolk section. NOTE: Use Moly Grease.
On the drive shaft, you have two grease fittings, one on the universal joint and one on the yolk. The U-joint one can be greased until full. Eventually, grease will ooze out of the seals around the U-joint. This is perfectly fine, do it.
I found that the other fitting, the one on the driveshaft yolk, took quite a bit of grease as well (25 pumps). You want to watch it and make sure the yolk does not extend when you add grease.
If it does, you may need to unscrew the grease fitting and drive around the block so the grease comes back out, relieving pressure from the yolk.
After I did this, the clunk went away. It has only been a few days, but I will edit if it changes. I also read it is a good Idea to periodically add grease to the yolk fitting as needed (probably every other oil change).

Parts Needed
Grease Gun
Cost: $20
You can buy these from Autozone, Advance Auto, or Oreilly’s
Here is the one I bought: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W54204/N0700.oap?ck=Search_grease+gun_N0700_-1_-1&keyword=grease+gun&pt=N0700&ppt=C0369

Moly Grease
Cost: $6
You can buy this from Autozone, Advance Auto, or Oreilly’s(make sure it says “Moly”)
Here is the type I bought:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...rd=moly+grease

JazzforG

Hi there,
Mind providing a little more detail on the symptoms of your last issue re: drivetrain? I have what may be a similar issue (just posted a minute ago "Bump Under Floorboards at Idle"), that I thought was a slipping transmission, but maybe it's a drive train problem. Can you direct me to the service bulletin and/or other posts?
Thanks a lot,
Joe

CarDealer

Great post! Enthusiasts should find this post very helpful. Give and get. Everyone helping each other while helping themselves!

Roochia

Yeah, so when you come to a stop from driving, at a red light or just stopping, you feel bump or clunk. You cannot miss it. It literally moves the vehicle slightly. This can occur anywhere from 5-15 seconds after stopping and sometimes happens multiple times while stopped. I am not aware of the service bulletin number. I found it a while back though when I was doing initial research into the issue. Lexus says the fix is a new driveshaft. Here is a link to the topic on CL: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...h-new-tsb.html

JazzforG

Roochia, that's what I've got. Thought it was a tranny issue. Thanks very much, I'll look into it further and give your fix a try. Much appreciate your post! Joe

BlackCat81

If it's repetitive like your thread states, it's not the driveshaft. That will only clunk once per stop. Not every 5-10 seconds.

Roochia

That's not accurate. It can and will do it multiple times. It's intermittent and doesn't happen every time you stop either. That is what has made it such a bear to understand and remedy.

mstrsltr

This is great! I'm getting close to buying a used GX and if you continue to add to and update this, it could really be a great one-stop thread to cover all the common issues these trucks have.

Cheers!

BlackCat81

if you're stopped it's not going to repitively clunk. If you creep forward again and stop, it may do it again. Sitting idle, never moving an inch it isn't going to do it over and over again.

GreggyG

Can you share more about the ds18 speakers? I want a bit more performance, mid bass, than the stock ml. Are these better in that sense?

jasanders

Revive this thread.

I bought an 03 GX about 6 months ago. It had about 150k miles. I have heard the "clunk" at a dead stop about 5 times since then. It only clunked once at a stop, never more than once though. I will attempt your grease idea.

So far I have replaced both of my front CV axles as the boots on the original ones looked to have completely worn out and leaked all the grease. The vehicle started to get a shake in the front end and my guess was those CV axles. To just redo the boots is high as giraffe *** so I went ahead and bought 2 new cv axles and had them both installed for less than just redoing the old boots. Also replaced my front shocks with an all in one strut and coil made by Monroe for 4runners. I have no more shake in the front of my vehicle and with the new shocks it seems to have firmed up my ride. Before it was pretty bouncy in the front. I am sure the new shocks will get a little softer which is what I want.

Next project will probably be the rear struts and possibly doing like Roochia said and converting the air bags to coils as my bags definetly have a small leak and I can feel the bumpy ride in the back due to them.

I also plan on replacing those front speakers as mine are definitely distorted.

Thanks for all of the tips and starting this thread Roochia. Let's keep it going as I plan on keeping my GX for a while.

cltide

Thanks for the info, Roochia. For your coil conversion, is there any particular reason why you went with FJ Springs over one of the GX specific conversion kits? I'm about to convert to springs and was planning to go with Arnott because they are well thought of on this forum and recommended by my shop. The two options seem to be fairly close in cost. You seem to be fairly well read so I'm hoping I can take advantage of your previous research. I was also planning to go with new KYB rear shocks as well. Have you replaced yours? I get the clunk too.. looking forward to trying your grease remedy.

-Cheers

Roochia

Okay, it has been a while, sorry I've been away from this post. I recently sold my GX for a Prius in order to get better mpg. I've been doing a bit of traveling. I do, however, remember everything about the mods I did to my GX, so that's good I guess.

There was no particular reason other than I got a good deal on them online. They were not factory FJ springs, they were from Moog. I think the Factory FJ springs would have been ideal, but they were more $ than I wanted to spend. The Moog springs sat about an inch higher in the back than the stock GX springs in the front. I was 100% okay with this as many trucks and SUVs have the same stance from factory. If money and availability were not a problem, I would go with Arnott or Factory FJ springs. As long as the Arnott springs are 0 lift, you should be fine.

As for shocks, I kept the oem adjustable shocks but disconnected the fuse used to control them in order to turn off the light on the dash. I ordered a pocket insert from a Land Cruiser to replace the ride height controls on the center console of the GX470 (which were useless after deleting the airbags).

It is a direct fit, but you have to order the part for a Land Cruiser: Part number: 58839-60040

Roochia

Update on the driveshaft issue: I found a fix, i think! The drive shaft is serviceable with grease. When the shaft is low on grease, you get the clunk from something in the all wheel drive system. Buy moly grease, put it in a grease gun, and go to town! Be careful not to overfill the driveshaft. I think mine was about 10-12 pumps low when I added the grease. Since doing this, the clunk completely went away. I read somewhere hidden in a TSB that you have to do this every 6 months to a year as regular maintenance. The grease will eventually run out of the shaft and you'll have to lube it again. This fixed the problem for me.

Roochia

I'm not sure if the ds18 speakers are "better" per say, but they definitely sounded great. The bass was profound and midrange was accurate. Most importantly, I cranked these things to the point I had to scream to sing and there was no distortion at all. I'm not going to say these are better sonically than ML speakers, mostly because mine were blown when I bought the GX, but the ds18 speakers did a wonderful job. I would absolutely buy them again without thinking twice. In fact, I removed the rear sub speaker entirely because 1) I didn't want to fool with replacing them and 2) the bass I got from the replacement speakers were more than enough.