Instructions: Complete 100% trans flush with filter change
09-13-16, 10:16 PM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Instructions: Complete 100% trans flush with filter change
The sticky on this forum named "Replacement of Trans oil on GX" only describes the 3 quart partial fluid change without pan drop. Some of us would like to do a more complete change. The following set of instructions cover a complete trans flush with all new fluid and a new filter. I've heard people say that the filter doesn't need replacement, but mine had a significant amount of metal filings in it. Better safe than sorry.
These instructions are specific to the GX with A750 SEALED transmission. These instructions would need modification to use with the earlier non-sealed transmission with dipstick. I assembled these instructions while doing a fluid change on my 2005, so there may be slight variances depending on your specific year.
Before starting, obtain the following:
A. The ATP B-331 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit which includes filter, o-ring, gasket, and overflow plug washer (you could order an OEM filter/gasket/washer if you prefer).
B. 3-4 gallons of Toyota WS, Valvoline MaxLife, or fluid of your choice, Do your research before choosing! Don't just use any ATF, make sure you know what you are dealing with.
C. Harbor Freight item #61364, the Pittsburgh Multi-Use Transfer Pump.
Instructions:
1. Raise car for easier access and completely level it using a level on the trans pan (both directions).
(NOTE: Carefully measure the total amount of old fluid that comes out of pan during steps 2-5)
2. Loosen and drain fluid from overflow plug (5mm hex).
3. Remove rearmost small skid plate with 12mm socket, 2 bolts.
4. Drop the pan using 10mm socket + extension. BE CAREFUL, there are still a couple quarts of fluid in the pan (collect all fluid for measurement).
The pan bolts should loosen very easily. If they are stiff, they might be seized. The bolts along the sides are actually open to the environment on the top, which allows crud to get to the bolts and corrode them. Feel along the top of the pan flange to see what I mean. If you encounter stiff bolts, soak the top of them in a penetrating oil before loosening, they break easily so be careful.
5. Remove 4 bolts (10mm + extension) that hold the filter on, pull and wiggle filter off (make sure old o-ring comes off).
6. Lubricate o-ring on new filter with new trans fluid. Install new filter and put tiny amount of blue thread lock on bolts if desired.
7. Clean off gasket surfaces on both sides.
8. Inspect and clean the 4 magnets. Clean inside of pan leaving no dust. Also place new crush washer on overflow plug and replace plug loosely without tightening.
9. Reinstall new gasket/bolts and smoothly torque in criss-cross pattern to 39in/lbs.
10. Disconnect the trans cooler hose at the top of the radiator and unclip the plastic clip that holds it in place.
11. Route the hose downward to a gallon jug with quart measurements on the side. Make sure it isn't in the way of anything that rotates when the engine's running, like the fan or belts.
12. Connect multi-use transfer pump to the radiator connector that you took the hose off of in step 10. Just push the orange hose on, it's tight but it will go.
13. Pump in the amount of fluid that came out plus 1 quart extra. Pumping will be slow because you will be pushing fluid through the radiator's trans cooler plus the small auxiliary cooler if your GX has one. Take your time and don't force it.
14. Start engine and get out quickly and watch the jug fill, shut off engine when it’s filled to 2 quarts (approx. 14 seconds).
15. Measure the amount that came out and refill with pump (should be between 2 and 3 quarts).
16. Repeat steps 14-15 until fluid coming out is clean (about 12 quarts used total up to this point). Now, disconnect the transfer pump and replace the hose to the radiator (be sure to snap the plastic clip back in place and make sure the hose isn't rubbing the A/C hoses).
17. Start engine and allow to idle.
18. Connect an OBD reader that measures trans temp (the Torque app on Android for instance). If you don't have one, perform the old method of reading trans temp, which is documented in the manual and in the other trans fluid change thread.
19. Warm fluid by idling and shifting slowly between reverse and drive. Those of us with the auxiliary cooler will not be able to get the fluid warm enough by just idling in Park.
20. Wait for fluid to get between 115F and 130F.
21. Put in park, LEAVE ENGINE RUNNING.
22. Remove overflow plug and catch any heavy flow. Replace when it’s a light flow, don’t let flow stop completely.
NOTE: If fluid didn’t come out in step 22: Shut off engine, remove the fill plug on passenger side transmission extension housing with a 24mm socket and no extension. (the plug is directly above the trans crossmember, hard to see). Add 1 quart of fluid with pump. Replace fill plug and tighten to 29ft/lbs. Repeat steps 17 onward.
23. Tighten overflow plug to 180 in/lb.
24. Drive around to heat and expand gasket.
These instructions are specific to the GX with A750 SEALED transmission. These instructions would need modification to use with the earlier non-sealed transmission with dipstick. I assembled these instructions while doing a fluid change on my 2005, so there may be slight variances depending on your specific year.
Before starting, obtain the following:
A. The ATP B-331 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit which includes filter, o-ring, gasket, and overflow plug washer (you could order an OEM filter/gasket/washer if you prefer).
B. 3-4 gallons of Toyota WS, Valvoline MaxLife, or fluid of your choice, Do your research before choosing! Don't just use any ATF, make sure you know what you are dealing with.
C. Harbor Freight item #61364, the Pittsburgh Multi-Use Transfer Pump.
Instructions:
1. Raise car for easier access and completely level it using a level on the trans pan (both directions).
(NOTE: Carefully measure the total amount of old fluid that comes out of pan during steps 2-5)
2. Loosen and drain fluid from overflow plug (5mm hex).
3. Remove rearmost small skid plate with 12mm socket, 2 bolts.
4. Drop the pan using 10mm socket + extension. BE CAREFUL, there are still a couple quarts of fluid in the pan (collect all fluid for measurement).
The pan bolts should loosen very easily. If they are stiff, they might be seized. The bolts along the sides are actually open to the environment on the top, which allows crud to get to the bolts and corrode them. Feel along the top of the pan flange to see what I mean. If you encounter stiff bolts, soak the top of them in a penetrating oil before loosening, they break easily so be careful.
5. Remove 4 bolts (10mm + extension) that hold the filter on, pull and wiggle filter off (make sure old o-ring comes off).
6. Lubricate o-ring on new filter with new trans fluid. Install new filter and put tiny amount of blue thread lock on bolts if desired.
7. Clean off gasket surfaces on both sides.
8. Inspect and clean the 4 magnets. Clean inside of pan leaving no dust. Also place new crush washer on overflow plug and replace plug loosely without tightening.
9. Reinstall new gasket/bolts and smoothly torque in criss-cross pattern to 39in/lbs.
10. Disconnect the trans cooler hose at the top of the radiator and unclip the plastic clip that holds it in place.
11. Route the hose downward to a gallon jug with quart measurements on the side. Make sure it isn't in the way of anything that rotates when the engine's running, like the fan or belts.
12. Connect multi-use transfer pump to the radiator connector that you took the hose off of in step 10. Just push the orange hose on, it's tight but it will go.
13. Pump in the amount of fluid that came out plus 1 quart extra. Pumping will be slow because you will be pushing fluid through the radiator's trans cooler plus the small auxiliary cooler if your GX has one. Take your time and don't force it.
14. Start engine and get out quickly and watch the jug fill, shut off engine when it’s filled to 2 quarts (approx. 14 seconds).
15. Measure the amount that came out and refill with pump (should be between 2 and 3 quarts).
16. Repeat steps 14-15 until fluid coming out is clean (about 12 quarts used total up to this point). Now, disconnect the transfer pump and replace the hose to the radiator (be sure to snap the plastic clip back in place and make sure the hose isn't rubbing the A/C hoses).
17. Start engine and allow to idle.
18. Connect an OBD reader that measures trans temp (the Torque app on Android for instance). If you don't have one, perform the old method of reading trans temp, which is documented in the manual and in the other trans fluid change thread.
19. Warm fluid by idling and shifting slowly between reverse and drive. Those of us with the auxiliary cooler will not be able to get the fluid warm enough by just idling in Park.
20. Wait for fluid to get between 115F and 130F.
21. Put in park, LEAVE ENGINE RUNNING.
22. Remove overflow plug and catch any heavy flow. Replace when it’s a light flow, don’t let flow stop completely.
NOTE: If fluid didn’t come out in step 22: Shut off engine, remove the fill plug on passenger side transmission extension housing with a 24mm socket and no extension. (the plug is directly above the trans crossmember, hard to see). Add 1 quart of fluid with pump. Replace fill plug and tighten to 29ft/lbs. Repeat steps 17 onward.
23. Tighten overflow plug to 180 in/lb.
24. Drive around to heat and expand gasket.
Last edited by LoneHiker; 09-13-16 at 10:30 PM.
09-14-16, 09:15 PM
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
You can see the hose right next to the coolant bottle. You disconnect that and run the hose downward to a catch bottle or bucket or whatever (it's long enough, doesn't need an extension). Then you connect your transfer pump to the radiator at that fitting.
Last edited by LoneHiker; 09-14-16 at 09:20 PM.
09-15-16, 02:32 PM
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Yes I have the auxillary towing cooler also, the little one in front of the condenser. I thought this was a better place to disconnect because the hose was long enough to reach underneath into a catch jug without an extension. Access was easy even though it looks like a lot of stuff might be in the way.
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09-15-16, 05:46 PM
#8
Yes I have the auxillary towing cooler also, the little one in front of the condenser. I thought this was a better place to disconnect because the hose was long enough to reach underneath into a catch jug without an extension. Access was easy even though it looks like a lot of stuff might be in the way.
09-16-16, 10:22 AM
#9
Pole Position
Very nice writeup!
09-16-16, 06:53 PM
#10
A case of WS is on order 
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
09-18-16, 07:39 AM
#11
A case of WS is on order
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
09-19-16, 11:37 AM
#12
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
A case of WS is on order
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
I was thinking instead of pushing new fluid into the radiator fitting, then going through the auxiliary cooler, could you also pump it through the same rubber hose that was disconnected previously? That line runs directly back to the tranny pan. Just a thought. Again, thank you!
So no, that won't work.
09-19-16, 11:40 AM
#13
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Fluid comes out of the coolers and flows directly back to the pan, there is no reason to remove the fill plug at all. I believe some of you are thinking that the coolers are the beginning of the fluid's journey, but it is actually the end before it returns to the pan.
Last edited by LoneHiker; 09-19-16 at 11:46 AM.
09-19-16, 12:10 PM
#14
This is the routine I used at 90k miles. Really simple process and I never burned myself or anything lol. Maybe 30 minutes total time spent.
Drained exactly 4 quarts out of the drain plug on a cold engine.
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump. (really impressed with how much fluid you can get out of a quart container with that thing!)
Disconnected the top hose on the cooler and used a piece of 3/8 tubing to run into a paint measuring bucket.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Only the last quart had any red tint to it at all.)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Looked 50/50 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3.5 quarts. (Looked 70/30 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Reinstalled the fill plug.
I did the temp check mode method to check the level. Jumped the OBDII port and pulled the overflow on the trans pan. Almost exactly the 1/2 quart extra I put in on the last round came back out at this point.
Cole
Drained exactly 4 quarts out of the drain plug on a cold engine.
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump. (really impressed with how much fluid you can get out of a quart container with that thing!)
Disconnected the top hose on the cooler and used a piece of 3/8 tubing to run into a paint measuring bucket.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Only the last quart had any red tint to it at all.)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Looked 50/50 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3.5 quarts. (Looked 70/30 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Reinstalled the fill plug.
I did the temp check mode method to check the level. Jumped the OBDII port and pulled the overflow on the trans pan. Almost exactly the 1/2 quart extra I put in on the last round came back out at this point.
Cole
09-20-16, 04:02 AM
#15
Ah, excellent point!
In that case you would be reversing the fluid flow, pumping into the outlet side of the pump. Also remember you have to start and stop the engine more than once to get all the old fluid out. Each time you restart you would be pumping out the new fluid you just added instead of the old.
So no, that won't work.
So no, that won't work.
