Tips for replacing CV Stub Axles - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion


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Tips for replacing CV Stub Axles

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Old 07-11-16, 06:34 AM   #1
SkeetShoot
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Default Tips for replacing CV Stub Axles

Hey all,

I recently replaced my stub axles this weekend. And figured I would share a few tips that might help for you.

Getting the axle out of the hub: (Outer part of the stub axle)


#1 Getting the axle out requires you remove the lower control arm mount from where the rotor and brake caliper assembly is. Some will say you need to remove the linkage that is attached as well, however if found that was not going to happen unless I drilled out the rusted cotter pin. Instead, I removed the ABS sensor and brake line retainers so I could get more movement without stressing the brake lines.

#2 You need a 36MM socket to get the axle nut off. This is by far the easiest part of the job


Inner Part of the stub axle: This is where good tools, patience and a lot of cursing go hand in hand.

#1. Take off the front skid plate and possibly even the mid skid plate.
When you need to get your pry bar in between the inner housing and the front differential the skid plate interferes slightly, but just enough that it will make it a pain.

#2. There is a retaining ring on the inner gear spline going into the front differential. It expands as it gets hot. If you can. Wait several hours after driving to allow it to cool. Even then, it will sometimes still present a problem. Which leads me to...

#3. I used 3 different pry bars to try and get the inner gear out of the front differential. Eventually, I realized that mine was not going to come out without deforming the malleable metal ring that is built into the inner part of the stub axle. If you are going to deform that ring, you HAVE TO BE CAREFUL not to damage the inner rubber seal that is in the front differential. If you do, good luck trying to find one in a pinch. Luckily, I did not have that issue and knew to look out for that.

Eventually what I did was used a flat head screw driver to pry up the metal ring, then with enough space to fit the screw driver shaft in between the differential case and the axle housing, i was able to pop it out.

That retention ring is a real pain.

Getting the new axle in is very easy. Just don't force anything. Make sure all splines are lined up and go in. Check for rotation and that nothing is binding.

All in all, if you have never done this before, Its not that bad. But expect some setbacks on the first axle you remove... Getting the inner axle out of the front differential takes the most time and by far is the most challenging part. If you have to bend that metal collar thing... just do it, but be careful.


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Old 07-15-16, 07:39 AM   #2
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Good info, Thanks!

My inner boot was torn. I figured out without the right tools and space, I won't be able to do it like what you did. So I turned out to use split repairing boot kit to patch the torn one. Not sure how long it can last. May eventually replace the axle.
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Old 07-22-16, 05:59 PM   #3
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Thanks for the tips. When installing did you have to orient the c ring opening facing up or down like some procedures says?

For removing the axle. I have heard you just place a pry bar in dimples around the axle and just strike a hammer. Or use a slide hammer with hook tool with a hose clamp. This would release the ring holding the axle inside the diff. Prying works too but you need more force and would damage the dust shield.
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Old 07-26-16, 07:47 AM   #4
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I don't remember orienting the C-rings upward, but it went in pretty smooth. Not really necessary to man-handle it.

I did not have a slide-hammer, and had heard from others before that it was not a guarantee of success. That was the reason I did the prying.
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Old 08-04-16, 05:32 AM   #5
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Default torn boot no symptoms

Quote:
Originally Posted by tz693 View Post
Good info, Thanks!

My inner boot was torn. I figured out without the right tools and space, I won't be able to do it like what you did. So I turned out to use split repairing boot kit to patch the torn one. Not sure how long it can last. May eventually replace the axle.
I was under my 2003 GX470 yesterday and realized that my inner right axle boot was totally torn. I can see clear into the CV joint (no grease). My question is; Why am I not experiencing any torn CV Boot symptoms like clicking while turning, etc.? Does it mean that the boot is still salvageable? Can I just buy a boot repair kit? Just wondering if anyone has experienced this.
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Old 08-04-16, 12:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmerk View Post
I was under my 2003 GX470 yesterday and realized that my inner right axle boot was totally torn. I can see clear into the CV joint (no grease). My question is; Why am I not experiencing any torn CV Boot symptoms like clicking while turning, etc.? Does it mean that the boot is still salvageable? Can I just buy a boot repair kit? Just wondering if anyone has experienced this.
Well, the complete fix is replace the axle. I didn't realize the torn boot until I looked at it. I could not find a split repair kit for the inner boot. I got a split outer repair kit. I modified a bit and put it on the inner side. Realize this is just a temporary fix. Just wait to see how long it last. The worst case is just to replace the axle later.
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Old 08-08-16, 08:53 PM   #7
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Thanks for this Skeetshoot.
...just looking over the GX before a 2k mile road trip and saw a torn inner.

You save me time. And bonus; I got a new axle locally w/ no core charge and saved the OEM axle.
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