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2004 GX470 OEM Pads & Rotors
Hey guys,our 2004 GX470 needs brake pads and rotors soon. I have done brakes and rotors on cars before,but,never SUV like ours.Are any special tools required and is there a DIY video available? Because Sewell Lexus does not honor their awesome 30% CL discount any longer,wher do you suggest getting the parts? Toyota dealership?Online somewhere?
Anyone know the OEM part numbers for front and rear pads and rotors? Thanks in advance!!!!! |
Just get some good rotors from AC Delco or Centric. They make several levels. Just don't by the cheapest of any brand. And then some good pads. Nothing fancy needed. Nothing too cheap.
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Is just your standard 10mm 12mm and 14mm bolts. In and out in an 1 hour. I used aftermarket parts. Not the cheapestimate but in the middle. I even changed one of my calipers that was bad. Almost a year with no issues.
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^^^ Ditto to Angelslex... Super easy if you are just changing rotors and pads... No need for any special equipment. As far as compressing the pads, do it while its on the rotor. You can either use channel locks or a C-Clamp (I prefer the C-Clamp.
Rotors... Centric makes the OEM rotors, so go with them if you want. Pads, do whatever you want there. Some like EBC Green, some like Akebono... you really can't go wrong. I would also recommend greasing your caliper slide pins. Just get some dilectric grease or caliper grease (sold in auto parts stores) and use that. Also some brake cleaner just incase you get some grease or anything on the rotors. Other than that. A good Jack, stands and you are set. |
Replaced just about everything on my gx last weekend. went with EBC Rotors and Hawk pads, as some folks here recommended. Sourced the calipers from Napa. So far everything is leak,squeak,and shudder free. Really happy with the way they came out.
Not the cheapest option, but Im hoping these last longer. The Napa calipers are powder coated black. Nice stuff. Sorry dont have those numbers.All the other parts here I ordered from Amazon. Front: EBC Brakes USR7238 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor Rear: EBC Brakes USR7161 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor Front: Hawk Performance HB490P.665 SuperDuty Brake Pad Rear: Hawk Performance HB477Y.610 LTS Brake Pad https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...2e2361aded.jpg |
Good blank rotors, Hawk LTS pads, new fluid. Give the old pads and calipers a good inspection to make sure you don't have seized calipers, very common on these trucks.
The only interesting part with these trucks is when bleeding the rear calipers, there's a pump for the rears so you just hold the brake down and crack the bleeder until it pumps clean fluid, much quicker than the regular pump/hold/open bleeder/close bleeder/repeat method. Just make sure it doesn't drain the reservoir and suck air. |
Originally Posted by co4wheel
(Post 9416604)
Just get some good rotors from AC Delco or Centric. They make several levels. Just don't by the cheapest of any brand. And then some good pads. Nothing fancy needed. Nothing too cheap.
Originally Posted by angelslex
(Post 9416607)
Is just your standard 10mm 12mm and 14mm bolts. In and out in an 1 hour. I used aftermarket parts. Not the cheapestimate but in the middle. I even changed one of my calipers that was bad. Almost a year with no issues.
Originally Posted by SkeetShoot
(Post 9416643)
^^^ Ditto to Angelslex... Super easy if you are just changing rotors and pads... No need for any special equipment. As far as compressing the pads, do it while its on the rotor. You can either use channel locks or a C-Clamp (I prefer the C-Clamp.
Rotors... Centric makes the OEM rotors, so go with them if you want. Pads, do whatever you want there. Some like EBC Green, some like Akebono... you really can't go wrong. I would also recommend greasing your caliper slide pins. Just get some dilectric grease or caliper grease (sold in auto parts stores) and use that. Also some brake cleaner just incase you get some grease or anything on the rotors. Other than that. A good Jack, stands and you are set.
Originally Posted by ace911
(Post 9416762)
Replaced just about everything on my gx last weekend. went with EBC Rotors and Hawk pads, as some folks here recommended. Sourced the calipers from Napa. So far everything is leak,squeak,and shudder free. Really happy with the way they came out.
Not the cheapest option, but Im hoping these last longer. The Napa calipers are powder coated black. Nice stuff. Sorry dont have those numbers.All the other parts here I ordered from Amazon. Front: EBC Brakes USR7238 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor Rear: EBC Brakes USR7161 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor Front: Hawk Performance HB490P.665 SuperDuty Brake Pad Rear: Hawk Performance HB477Y.610 LTS Brake Pad https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...2e2361aded.jpg
Originally Posted by IanB2
(Post 9416847)
Good blank rotors, Hawk LTS pads, new fluid. Give the old pads and calipers a good inspection to make sure you don't have seized calipers, very common on these trucks.
The only interesting part with these trucks is when bleeding the rear calipers, there's a pump for the rears so you just hold the brake down and crack the bleeder until it pumps clean fluid, much quicker than the regular pump/hold/open bleeder/close bleeder/repeat method. Just make sure it doesn't drain the reservoir and suck air. Question,I should be ok using my old shims,correct? I have caliper grase,can I put that on the pistons where they push against the pads? I ordered factory oem pads and rotors from a Lexus dealership n Arizona.Local Toyota dealership wanted $101.00 per rotor and $72.00 for pads,plus 7% tax. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-OEM-FACTORY-FRONT-BRAKE-PADS-AND-ROTOR-SET-2003-2009-GX470-/252265272876?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 |
I used my old shims. So far so good.
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I replaced front rotors/pads a few weeks ago. I went with Centric coated rotors from amazon for about $50/ea. I used Hawk pads and the pads came with new shims. I also applied grease to the pistons, contact point where pistons hit the pad/shim, and to the pins that hold the pads. I then bedded the pads per the pad manufacturer spec and they have been working great. I had a little rust on the inside of my pistons so I cleaned them the best I could before installing the new pads. Luckily I was able to reset the pistons fine and the calipers weren't seized. Make sure you torque the lug nuts down to the right spec. I think its around 90 ft/lbs. Improper torque can lead to warping. There are a few really great tutorials here with great pics if you need a reference. Hope the install goes well!
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Originally Posted by TyneeGX
(Post 9417594)
I used my old shims. So far so good.
Originally Posted by cgdrennan
(Post 9419901)
I replaced front rotors/pads a few weeks ago. I went with Centric coated rotors from amazon for about $50/ea. I used Hawk pads and the pads came with new shims. I also applied grease to the pistons, contact point where pistons hit the pad/shim, and to the pins that hold the pads. I then bedded the pads per the pad manufacturer spec and they have been working great. I had a little rust on the inside of my pistons so I cleaned them the best I could before installing the new pads. Luckily I was able to reset the pistons fine and the calipers weren't seized. Make sure you torque the lug nuts down to the right spec. I think its around 90 ft/lbs. Improper torque can lead to warping. There are a few really great tutorials here with great pics if you need a reference. Hope the install goes well!
Using factory parts,what is the proper method to bed the pads in? Also,there is no need to bleed the brakes if I do not remove any hoses,correct? |
Originally Posted by Wronglane
(Post 9422029)
Great,hopefully my shims are in good shape.
Thanks for the tips.I always torque lug nut which is 85 ft. lbs. For all the grease points you mentioned,can I use caliper grease or is there a special type of grease? Using factory parts,what is the proper method to bed the pads in? Also,there is no need to bleed the brakes if I do not remove any hoses,correct? |
Originally Posted by cgdrennan
(Post 9422058)
Caliper grease is fine. No need to bleed unless you remove hoses. Be sure to check the brake fluid level after you install the new pads. Resetting the pistons can force fluid back into the reservoir.
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Originally Posted by cgdrennan
(Post 9419901)
I replaced front rotors/pads a few weeks ago. I went with Centric coated rotors from amazon for about $50/ea. I used Hawk pads and the pads came with new shims. I also applied grease to the pistons, contact point where pistons hit the pad/shim, and to the pins that hold the pads. I then bedded the pads per the pad manufacturer spec and they have been working great. I had a little rust on the inside of my pistons so I cleaned them the best I could before installing the new pads. Luckily I was able to reset the pistons fine and the calipers weren't seized. Make sure you torque the lug nuts down to the right spec. I think its around 90 ft/lbs. Improper torque can lead to warping. There are a few really great tutorials here with great pics if you need a reference. Hope the install goes well!
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Originally Posted by Wronglane
(Post 9422627)
Thanks again,anyone know the torque specs on the caliper bolts.So far,I have not found them.
http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...96b43f8037759c |
Rotors and pads came today.Sould anti squeel grease be applied to both sides of the inner shims? Also,should I scuff the new rotors with emory cloth or just wipe them down with brake clean?
Thanks in advance!! |
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