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changing front shock absorber on GX470
05-17-14, 12:43 AM
#1
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changing front shock absorber on GX470
It's my first time working on my 2005 GX470 to change the front shock absorber. Have some questions on how to correctly and safely change it. Would appreciate your advice on the following:
1) To remove the strut assembly, do I need to remove the sway/stabilizer bar?
2) I have already removed the lower strut bolt, but got stuck on the top part. Should I remove the absorber control actuator and its bracket first (by removing the two nuts at label #3 in the attached photo)? It's not easy to get to these nut and seems like it's round. What tool to use for removing #3? There are two #3s, how to remove the on in the back?
3) how to disconnect #4? Or I can leave it connected?
4) should I loosen nut #2 to help remove the strut or the actuator? Is this the one that is holding the spring in position and loosen it without using the spring compressor is dangerous?
5) Also, it's hard to reach the third nut in the back (labeled as 1 with dashed arrow). So have to remove the bracket first?
Thanks for your help.
1) To remove the strut assembly, do I need to remove the sway/stabilizer bar?
2) I have already removed the lower strut bolt, but got stuck on the top part. Should I remove the absorber control actuator and its bracket first (by removing the two nuts at label #3 in the attached photo)? It's not easy to get to these nut and seems like it's round. What tool to use for removing #3? There are two #3s, how to remove the on in the back?
3) how to disconnect #4? Or I can leave it connected?
4) should I loosen nut #2 to help remove the strut or the actuator? Is this the one that is holding the spring in position and loosen it without using the spring compressor is dangerous?
5) Also, it's hard to reach the third nut in the back (labeled as 1 with dashed arrow). So have to remove the bracket first?
Thanks for your help.
05-17-14, 08:16 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
It's my first time working on my 2005 GX470 to change the front shock absorber. Have some questions on how to correctly and safely change it. Would appreciate your advice on the following:
1) To remove the strut assembly, do I need to remove the sway/stabilizer bar?
-Yes.
2) I have already removed the lower strut bolt, but got stuck on the top part. Should I remove the absorber control actuator and its bracket first (by removing the two nuts at label #3 in the attached photo)? It's not easy to get to these nut and seems like it's round. What tool to use for removing #3? There are two #3s, how to remove the on in the back?
- You need to remove the allen head bolts on the top bracket, there are 2 of them. The back one if very hard to get to...so once you remove the front one use some force and turn the bracket so the rear is now facing you. You don't have to do that part if you can get to it by hand but I wasn't able to get to it...well I was but I stripped the allen head because it was in such an awkward position when in the rear.
3) how to disconnect #4? Or I can leave it connected?
- Like any other clip, push the retainer in and remove the two sections and remove the bracket so it gives you space to work in.
4) should I loosen nut #2 to help remove the strut or the actuator? Is this the one that is holding the spring in position and loosen it without using the spring compressor is dangerous?
- Those are the allen heads I mentioned in step 2. You have to remove those first before anything.
5) Also, it's hard to reach the third nut in the back (labeled as 1 with dashed arrow). So have to remove the bracket first?
- Yes, again, you have to remove the top section first before anything.
Thanks for your help.
1) To remove the strut assembly, do I need to remove the sway/stabilizer bar?
-Yes.
2) I have already removed the lower strut bolt, but got stuck on the top part. Should I remove the absorber control actuator and its bracket first (by removing the two nuts at label #3 in the attached photo)? It's not easy to get to these nut and seems like it's round. What tool to use for removing #3? There are two #3s, how to remove the on in the back?
- You need to remove the allen head bolts on the top bracket, there are 2 of them. The back one if very hard to get to...so once you remove the front one use some force and turn the bracket so the rear is now facing you. You don't have to do that part if you can get to it by hand but I wasn't able to get to it...well I was but I stripped the allen head because it was in such an awkward position when in the rear.
3) how to disconnect #4? Or I can leave it connected?
- Like any other clip, push the retainer in and remove the two sections and remove the bracket so it gives you space to work in.
4) should I loosen nut #2 to help remove the strut or the actuator? Is this the one that is holding the spring in position and loosen it without using the spring compressor is dangerous?
- Those are the allen heads I mentioned in step 2. You have to remove those first before anything.
5) Also, it's hard to reach the third nut in the back (labeled as 1 with dashed arrow). So have to remove the bracket first?
- Yes, again, you have to remove the top section first before anything.
Thanks for your help.
*torque specs are in the PDF*
05-17-14, 05:18 PM
#3
Thanks so much for this RC. I'm doing this today too and barely have enough room to get my allen key into those stupid screws holding the shock control actuator. What a PITA!
05-17-14, 08:00 PM
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Stuck at step of removing strut
Thanks so much for the advice and document. It helps a lot.
I used an allen wrench to remove the outside #3, but got the inside #3 stripped . Like you suggested, rotate the bracket by tightening #2 a little bit so made the inside #3 easier to access. Still no luck. However, I was able to use a screwdriver to slowly loosen the bolt on top of the bracket (but underneath the black absorber control actuator) and remove it completely off the stem of the shock absorber. With the bracket and actuator still attached at the stripped bolt but so easy to access, I extracted the bolt out and replaced it with a $0.70 replacement from Ace Hardware.
With some PB Blaster treatment, I have completed the following:
1) removed stabilizer bar
2) removed bracket/actuator
3) removed lower bolt
4) removed upper bolts 3 of #1
However, got stuck at the step to remove the strut assembly from the knuckle. Seems like the struct assembly has a lot of force to extend, right I unscrew the lower bolt from onside of the knuckle, the absorber extended itself and the lower bolt is slanted. I managed to get the lower bolt out completely, but see the hold of the absorber bushing and the hole of the knuckle is not aligned anymore (absorber being lower in position). Then I used a hammer to try to knock the absorber out off the knuckle base, and it got stuck at a position as shown in the picture. I tried to jack up the bottom of the lower control arm to compress the spring a bit and managed to put a spring compressor on only one side to try to hold the spring as compressed and hoping that it won't fully extend the absorber once the jack is released. This does not work. The lower part of the absorber is stuck there. Seems like the rubber boot will be be in its way even if it can move out further.
From a few videos on U-tube and posts in the forum, seems like removing the strut should not be this difficult once the bottom bolt and top 3 bolts are removed. Did I do something wrong?
This makes me wonder even after I take it off and put the new OEM part on, how to put the assembly back into the right position in order to put the lower bolt in? The angle of the picture makes it less obvious of the mis-alignment but there is about 1/4 - 3/8 inch of difference between the two holes/circles and obviously the lower bolt can not make it through. Any trick to have these holes align so the lower bolt can be put back?
As always, thank you so much for the help.
I used an allen wrench to remove the outside #3, but got the inside #3 stripped . Like you suggested, rotate the bracket by tightening #2 a little bit so made the inside #3 easier to access. Still no luck. However, I was able to use a screwdriver to slowly loosen the bolt on top of the bracket (but underneath the black absorber control actuator) and remove it completely off the stem of the shock absorber. With the bracket and actuator still attached at the stripped bolt but so easy to access, I extracted the bolt out and replaced it with a $0.70 replacement from Ace Hardware.
With some PB Blaster treatment, I have completed the following:
1) removed stabilizer bar
2) removed bracket/actuator
3) removed lower bolt
4) removed upper bolts 3 of #1
However, got stuck at the step to remove the strut assembly from the knuckle. Seems like the struct assembly has a lot of force to extend, right I unscrew the lower bolt from onside of the knuckle, the absorber extended itself and the lower bolt is slanted. I managed to get the lower bolt out completely, but see the hold of the absorber bushing and the hole of the knuckle is not aligned anymore (absorber being lower in position). Then I used a hammer to try to knock the absorber out off the knuckle base, and it got stuck at a position as shown in the picture. I tried to jack up the bottom of the lower control arm to compress the spring a bit and managed to put a spring compressor on only one side to try to hold the spring as compressed and hoping that it won't fully extend the absorber once the jack is released. This does not work. The lower part of the absorber is stuck there. Seems like the rubber boot will be be in its way even if it can move out further.
From a few videos on U-tube and posts in the forum, seems like removing the strut should not be this difficult once the bottom bolt and top 3 bolts are removed. Did I do something wrong?
This makes me wonder even after I take it off and put the new OEM part on, how to put the assembly back into the right position in order to put the lower bolt in? The angle of the picture makes it less obvious of the mis-alignment but there is about 1/4 - 3/8 inch of difference between the two holes/circles and obviously the lower bolt can not make it through. Any trick to have these holes align so the lower bolt can be put back?
As always, thank you so much for the help.
05-17-14, 10:19 PM
#5
I removed both of the 19mm bolts on the lower ball joint (the ones that fasten the spindle to the lower control arm (LCA)). With a bit of prying with a crow bar, I was able to get enough movement out of the LCA to get the strut out but in the reassembly phase, I'm having no luck getting my new and taller coil-overs back into place. Perhaps when my brother in law gets here, he'll be able to push that LCA down enough for me.
Why is there so much resistance in that LCA?
Why is there so much resistance in that LCA?
05-18-14, 08:30 PM
#6
Thanks so much for the advice and document. It helps a lot.
I used an allen wrench to remove the outside #3, but got the inside #3 stripped . Like you suggested, rotate the bracket by tightening #2 a little bit so made the inside #3 easier to access. Still no luck. However, I was able to use a screwdriver to slowly loosen the bolt on top of the bracket (but underneath the black absorber control actuator) and remove it completely off the stem of the shock absorber. With the bracket and actuator still attached at the stripped bolt but so easy to access, I extracted the bolt out and replaced it with a $0.70 replacement from Ace Hardware.
With some PB Blaster treatment, I have completed the following:
1) removed stabilizer bar
2) removed bracket/actuator
3) removed lower bolt
4) removed upper bolts 3 of #1
However, got stuck at the step to remove the strut assembly from the knuckle. Seems like the struct assembly has a lot of force to extend, right I unscrew the lower bolt from onside of the knuckle, the absorber extended itself and the lower bolt is slanted. I managed to get the lower bolt out completely, but see the hold of the absorber bushing and the hole of the knuckle is not aligned anymore (absorber being lower in position). Then I used a hammer to try to knock the absorber out off the knuckle base, and it got stuck at a position as shown in the picture. I tried to jack up the bottom of the lower control arm to compress the spring a bit and managed to put a spring compressor on only one side to try to hold the spring as compressed and hoping that it won't fully extend the absorber once the jack is released. This does not work. The lower part of the absorber is stuck there. Seems like the rubber boot will be be in its way even if it can move out further.
From a few videos on U-tube and posts in the forum, seems like removing the strut should not be this difficult once the bottom bolt and top 3 bolts are removed. Did I do something wrong?
This makes me wonder even after I take it off and put the new OEM part on, how to put the assembly back into the right position in order to put the lower bolt in? The angle of the picture makes it less obvious of the mis-alignment but there is about 1/4 - 3/8 inch of difference between the two holes/circles and obviously the lower bolt can not make it through. Any trick to have these holes align so the lower bolt can be put back?
As always, thank you so much for the help.
I used an allen wrench to remove the outside #3, but got the inside #3 stripped . Like you suggested, rotate the bracket by tightening #2 a little bit so made the inside #3 easier to access. Still no luck. However, I was able to use a screwdriver to slowly loosen the bolt on top of the bracket (but underneath the black absorber control actuator) and remove it completely off the stem of the shock absorber. With the bracket and actuator still attached at the stripped bolt but so easy to access, I extracted the bolt out and replaced it with a $0.70 replacement from Ace Hardware.
With some PB Blaster treatment, I have completed the following:
1) removed stabilizer bar
2) removed bracket/actuator
3) removed lower bolt
4) removed upper bolts 3 of #1
However, got stuck at the step to remove the strut assembly from the knuckle. Seems like the struct assembly has a lot of force to extend, right I unscrew the lower bolt from onside of the knuckle, the absorber extended itself and the lower bolt is slanted. I managed to get the lower bolt out completely, but see the hold of the absorber bushing and the hole of the knuckle is not aligned anymore (absorber being lower in position). Then I used a hammer to try to knock the absorber out off the knuckle base, and it got stuck at a position as shown in the picture. I tried to jack up the bottom of the lower control arm to compress the spring a bit and managed to put a spring compressor on only one side to try to hold the spring as compressed and hoping that it won't fully extend the absorber once the jack is released. This does not work. The lower part of the absorber is stuck there. Seems like the rubber boot will be be in its way even if it can move out further.
From a few videos on U-tube and posts in the forum, seems like removing the strut should not be this difficult once the bottom bolt and top 3 bolts are removed. Did I do something wrong?
This makes me wonder even after I take it off and put the new OEM part on, how to put the assembly back into the right position in order to put the lower bolt in? The angle of the picture makes it less obvious of the mis-alignment but there is about 1/4 - 3/8 inch of difference between the two holes/circles and obviously the lower bolt can not make it through. Any trick to have these holes align so the lower bolt can be put back?
As always, thank you so much for the help.
05-18-14, 09:26 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
I removed both of the 19mm bolts on the lower ball joint (the ones that fasten the spindle to the lower control arm (LCA)). With a bit of prying with a crow bar, I was able to get enough movement out of the LCA to get the strut out but in the reassembly phase, I'm having no luck getting my new and taller coil-overs back into place. Perhaps when my brother in law gets here, he'll be able to push that LCA down enough for me.
Why is there so much resistance in that LCA?
Why is there so much resistance in that LCA?
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3270
I was able to get the Icon coilover in there but the bottom mount was a little tricky. Icon uses 2 spacers (metal bushings) in the bottom mount to offset the coilover so it doesn't rub on the swaybay. Since they weren't press fit in getting everything to line up at once was a little tricky, especially when doing this alone.
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03-18-15, 09:38 PM
#8
I am hoping someone can help me with some advice on removing the shock assembly step.
I followed the instructions word for word, I removed the top 3 14mm nuts on the shock, and the lower 19mm bolt for the lower shock mount, and the shock is hanging there free but it will not seperate from the top part of the mount. its like the metal top hat is stuck to the mount, I cannot get it to separate I tried a pry bar and even a crowbar. soaked it in PB blaster and taking a break to figure it out. did your guys just fall out easily at this point??
as I move the shock around there is a rubber part on top that is flexing under nut #2 in the picture above that holds the coil compressed together. It seems like the strut should have come loose by now, the 3 studs on top do not seem to move at all just the rubber part under nut #2. the rubber part almost seems wedged in there I tried to loosen nut #2 on top of it to relax it thinking it would help release easier but I stopped after a few turns because it doesn't seem right the manual does not mention this at all. anyone have any ideas or have a similar problem? I will have to leave it for tomorrow.
I followed the instructions word for word, I removed the top 3 14mm nuts on the shock, and the lower 19mm bolt for the lower shock mount, and the shock is hanging there free but it will not seperate from the top part of the mount. its like the metal top hat is stuck to the mount, I cannot get it to separate I tried a pry bar and even a crowbar. soaked it in PB blaster and taking a break to figure it out. did your guys just fall out easily at this point??
as I move the shock around there is a rubber part on top that is flexing under nut #2 in the picture above that holds the coil compressed together. It seems like the strut should have come loose by now, the 3 studs on top do not seem to move at all just the rubber part under nut #2. the rubber part almost seems wedged in there I tried to loosen nut #2 on top of it to relax it thinking it would help release easier but I stopped after a few turns because it doesn't seem right the manual does not mention this at all. anyone have any ideas or have a similar problem? I will have to leave it for tomorrow.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-18-15 at 09:43 PM.
03-19-15, 06:27 AM
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"I removed the top 3 14mm nuts on the shock, and the lower 19mm bolt for the lower shock mount,"
If you follow the shaft up, you should have a nut holding the strut in place, it would be above the hat, it will be directly on the strut.
If you follow the shaft up, you should have a nut holding the strut in place, it would be above the hat, it will be directly on the strut.
03-19-15, 10:53 AM
#11
03-19-15, 10:59 AM
#12
Yeah I went back out there today after letting it soak all night, it still did not want to come off =(
I got a crow bar wedged at an angle between the top plate and the mount, and got the biggest hammer I had and went to town on it ( i tried same last night but with alot less force).
well on the 5th large hit the shock just fell down, so it was just dirt and grime holding it in place which is seriously the strongest I have ever encountered.
so thanks for the suggestion guys, it turned out to be a simple problem that needed a bigger hammer, or as I call it "suspension adjustment tool"
I got a crow bar wedged at an angle between the top plate and the mount, and got the biggest hammer I had and went to town on it ( i tried same last night but with alot less force).
well on the 5th large hit the shock just fell down, so it was just dirt and grime holding it in place which is seriously the strongest I have ever encountered.
so thanks for the suggestion guys, it turned out to be a simple problem that needed a bigger hammer, or as I call it "suspension adjustment tool"
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-19-15 at 01:40 PM.
08-08-16, 04:58 PM
#13
Guys the 4mm hex bolt was a major pita. The upward facing and in a dirty location, 4mm is tiny. After 3 of mine came out with a pop sound the 4th one is a inside one. I was desperate and knew I was going to strip it and kept pulling, And I did. The front ones I used a vise grip and hex at the same time. I suppose should rotate the bracket and do that with the back bolts in retrospect.
After almost an an hour of getting a tiny vise grip in the back with the bracket rotated a bit. I got it out.
I think the trick is a lot of penetrating oil a bit before hand, liberally so it can get down the actuator to the threads. The op got the nut off with a screw driver which is good but that but on mine is pretty tight.
it did not come out until I sprayed and waited and tighten the vise grip so it was very very hard to squeeze together. Even so you got like 1/4" to turn the tiny vise grip.
After almost an an hour of getting a tiny vise grip in the back with the bracket rotated a bit. I got it out.
I think the trick is a lot of penetrating oil a bit before hand, liberally so it can get down the actuator to the threads. The op got the nut off with a screw driver which is good but that but on mine is pretty tight.
it did not come out until I sprayed and waited and tighten the vise grip so it was very very hard to squeeze together. Even so you got like 1/4" to turn the tiny vise grip.
08-09-16, 09:03 AM
#14
The Allen bolts were the hardest part of the job for me, just a stupid fastener for Lexus to use in that location.
FWIW, I used the Monroe Quik-Struts on it where the spring and strut are a complete assembly and the ride honestly feels better than what was on there. Very cush ride, maybe even better than the LS430 I have.
FWIW, I used the Monroe Quik-Struts on it where the spring and strut are a complete assembly and the ride honestly feels better than what was on there. Very cush ride, maybe even better than the LS430 I have.
08-09-16, 09:43 AM
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Thread highjack-
Just replaced my front struts with the 4600 series bilstein. Is there a way to fool the vsc sensor in the top of the stock shock? The vsc lights are on as well as the brake and abs warning lights. Had searched threads and it seemed folks were doing this and not throwing warning lights on. Did I miss something?!? All help greatly appreciated!
Just replaced my front struts with the 4600 series bilstein. Is there a way to fool the vsc sensor in the top of the stock shock? The vsc lights are on as well as the brake and abs warning lights. Had searched threads and it seemed folks were doing this and not throwing warning lights on. Did I miss something?!? All help greatly appreciated!